First ever Warmoth Strat! Natural binding trans red with black burst

Ok, we'll I'd be interested to hear how deeply recessed your side adjust is.

Looking nice by the way, considering you didn't buy it to look nice.
 
Decal from Rothko and Frost arrived. The quality seems to be first rate:





It'll be the very last thing I do on the guitar, if I even decide to have a logo, so I've got time to think about the use of Fender and maybe order an alternative if I feel like it. They're pretty inexpensive.

I've sorted the neck I think. I've now got it playing very nicely with no buzz anywhere and a low-ish action. I prefer a slightly higher action to some people these days as I can't abide fret buzz, so it's feeling about 90% there. It already feels excellent on big bends up the dusty end of the neck, thanks to the compound radius. The forthcoming fret dress will hopefully account for the other 10%.

One thing I have noticed is that the guitar is markedly heavier since I put this neck on. Are Warmoth Pros supposed to weigh more?
 
The dual-action truss rod is a bit heavier than a single-action one, yes. The other factor is it's probably a denser piece of maple than the mighty-mite one.
 
It's a bit of a shame, as it was looking like being an extremely light guitar, but I'll live with it for such a gorgeous neck I think!
 
They sure do look good  :icon_thumright:

Now, you just gotta hope that it really is going to be a Toneblaster    :laughing7:




I'm sure it will be    :party07:
 
When the fat girls push you away and you get smoked by a guy with two spoons and a washboard bib, it my be time to practice something beyond faces and gestures. But it wouldn't do much good to tell him that.
 
I guess I should have probably migrated this to a Work in Progress thread a while ago, but it's all here now so I might as well keep going.

The Tone Pro Klusons arrived at the weekend. At first I thought they were no different to the Squier set I'd put on temporarily, but compared in hand they are clearly much nicer. They've got a thick, solid base with a larger, flatter footprint, a higher gear ratio, and a much nicer nickel finish which I think suits the tint of the Birdseye maple more.





So that's all the hardware bits and bobs done. It's just the pickups and a fret dress to go now, and that's happening very soon.
 
Yes, they're a quality bit of kit. The footprint on the standard type isn't flat like these, so they tend to leave marks on the back of the headstock as well (that you never see of course, but still).

Like this:

kluson-3.jpg


These have got a different post to mine, but they're otherwise identical and you can see that the footprint hasn't got those ridges.

c96f3787.jpg


Only thing I don't get is why these are called "sealed" and the old ones aren't. Where are they sealed? The construction appears to be broadly the same to me.
 
A  few addenda - It's considered good practice to turn the trussrod's end nut no more than 1/4 turn or so a day. I mean, after the whole initial setup where you tighten it from nothing to (X). And I think it would apply more readily to woods on the large-grain and brittle-ish side of the forest - wenge maybe? And it's probably meant more for an older neck that has "settled" into it's groove. On a new neck, if it's acting stupid like
"Hey- NECK! I just turned your trussrod 1/3 of a turn and NOTHING happened, numbnuts!"

I will... well oddly enough I'm more inclined to jack on it if it's a GOOD-quality piece. You can take it over your knee, or I will rest it upon my reasonably well-padded ribcage, get a hold of the butt and head and give it a good firm YANK!* A good deal of the instructions you run across in magazines are designed to 1) fill column inches; 2) Sell products. Furzample, Premier Guitar (which IS he best of the non-$40 to $100 ultra-sniffery rags) , umm, Premier Guitar insists that you have to restring a guitar every time you adjust the rod! As though every 13-year-old hasn't already figured on the capo trick - clamp em' down at the nut, loosen strings, remove neck and have your way with it. Did I yet mention that D'Addario, GHS, Ernie Ball, DR, Elixer, Thomasveldernik-Inkfelderwhatever, Rotosound and their dogs all run big pricy ads in your magazine - OF COURSE you need to throw away strings all the time.... :laughing7:

OK, well, while my chute's greased -  

You can run across really bad advice on the net, there's some bass site I stumbled into a few years back. It' s nicely written, on a gentle yellow background, good grammar, just gives you that warm trusting "This guy'll look out for me!" kinda feeling. And he insists that you should never mess with a bass's bridge because the guys at the factory set it right, and the way to adjust action height was cranking around on the trussrod!  :headbang1: If he had just spent half the time he spent making his bee-u-teefull website on reading some books and LEARNING WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT....

The advice in magazines isn't usually geared towards destroying yer git like that fool, but there's another issue with many websites, "pro" YouTube channels and the magazines - and that is, they hire the most knowledgeable, successful repair and tech guys - and these people have shop habits and methodology entirely oriented around work speed, volume production and sinking heavy moola into expensive tools that can only pay for themselves with - work speed & volume production! Like this month, I think it's Premie again, they have an article about putting new tuning pegs on some old thing with crappy tuners. And the guy jumps through hoops talking about how to not destroy the value of a fine vintage piece, tracking down the exact right bushings and all, nar-de-nar nar - this might apply to what, 3% of the people who might want a guitar to stay in tune? :icon_scratch: Just get to the point already! And he insists a few times that it's extremely dangerous to tighten the bushings on tuners with a crescent adjustable wrench, because it "may" slip and destroy my valuable, $25,000 vintage PooPooCaster! BUT - I'm not in a hurry, I don't need to do twenty of 'em before lunch, and I have NO hope of "recouping an investment" on a special $20 guitar tuner-bushing deep well socket kind of thing. And if for some reason I do go all spazzy and scratch my guitar - isn't it called "real relic'd"? :headbang1:

The place where this goes completely off the tracks is in finishing, of course. Gibson, Fender and their disciples use and USED processes that were really wasteful, production oriented, steps that only make sense on an assembly line... wasteful of product, but FAST FAST FAST in a high volume factory. Any time you see a process that involves slobbering on a real thick coat of oil or filler, and then... wait 20 minutes and scrape it all off. And throw it away? :icon_scratch: What are you supposed to DO for the 20 minutes, learn French? No, you're supposed to be slobbering goo on the next nineteen things you're working on, because the guys who formulated the commercial stuff were selling it to big factories and they dug right down to the little polymerizin' molecules coming up with something that works for finishing 50 guitars or bed frames or dressers at a pop. But don't let me get going... :toothy12:



*(No not that kind. A PULL...)
 
>> if for some reason I do go all spazzy and scratch my guitar - isn't it called "real relic'd"?

Yep. Except, you can't "real relic" somebody else's guitar. Your own? Fine. Mine? You better have the right tools and I better get it back in as good or better shape than I gave it to you, or there'll be hell to pay. At least, that's the way I look at it when I work on other people's instruments.

There's an old saying that goes " 'Tis a poor workman who blames his tools!" which is true enough. But, 'tis an even poorer one who doesn't use the right tool for the job, which is often the case when tool failure or misapplication causes damage or sub-par results.
 
There's a lot of good advice around, and a lot of "perceived wisdom" which is just BS that somehow gets passed down from generation to generation. Working out what's what is half the battle, especially for someone like me who is a veteran player, but a relative newbie to actual guitar tinkering.

It's only in the last few years that I even looked under the hoods of my guitars. Probably a sign of age, I was too busy playing the things and trying to impress girls for the first 20 years I was playing!
 
While I wait for the pickups to arrive and be installed I ordered a couple of alternative decals:






Opinion in the office seems to be divided, with a slight bias towards 'Ounsworth'.

Views?
 
I think I'd go with the "Ounsworth" version, too. "Custom" is so overused it almost doesn't mean anything any more.
 
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