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First build. Heavy metal strat.

GuitarNoob

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Hello all,

So I'm fairly new to this whole guitar thing and figured since I had the good people at Warmoth fabricate my new axe, I'd start here when I ran into a problem.

I've purchased all the hardware I need to make this beautiful thing happen, but I could use a few opinions on whether or not they're all appropriate/compatible.

I've gone and bought all my hard parts from Schaller, but didn't realise that the pickup covers are tapered. Also they're both the same size. Is this an issue at all for a rear rout strat?

The second issue I have is that I'm a bit worried I'll wreck the finish/drill on an angle when I do the pilot holes I need, so any tips on how to get that right would be appreciated.
 

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A. Welcome to the forum!

B. Do you have a picture of the body too? And can you give a pic of the back of the neck, especially the heel?

C. The covers won't be the issue–some pickups are taller (have longer screws/posts) and need a deeper cavity routed for them. I've had issues where I've needed flat pickup rings as apposed to thick and angled...but no issues with the covers themselves.

D. What pilot holes are you drilling? On the neck?...if so, just curious why did you pay more for Warmoth to not drill the holes? (assuming you ordered the neck from Warmoth and didn't purchase from someone else.)
 
Thank you.

I'll have the body by the start of next week, I'm currently tracking it and it has just left the continental United States. I'll upload a photo then.

So it doesn't matter that they're both short and angled? Most of the examples I've seen use completely flat rings, or a taller one for the bridge pickup that's all.

Sorry it's not the neck I need pilot holes for. It's the pickup frames, strap locks, side and back plates. Just wondered if anyone had any tips to make it easier for someone with little experience. I'm afraid I'll chip or mar the finish in some way.

I've bought both the neck and body from Warmoth. Considering the time and money invested so far I'd like to get this done right the first time, hence the noob questions. Appreciate any help.
 
GuitarNoob said:
Sorry it's not the neck I need pilot holes for. It's the pickup frames, strap locks, side and back plates. Just wondered if anyone had any tips to make it easier for someone with little experience. I'm afraid I'll chip or mar the finish in some way.

Those holes will all be covered by the parts the screws are holding down, so any tiny chips created aren't a huge concern. Getting them drilled perpendicular to the surface is sorta important, though, because if they're not the screw heads will sit kinda cocked and look silly. That's something that can absolutely be insured against by using a drill press, but it's rarely required or done that way. They're small holes, so you can use a small drill motor, which is more easily oriented and controlled. Just watch what you're doing. Most of the "small" hole mistakes I've made have been from using too large drill motor where the weight of the thing alone puts you at risk of breaking the bit and skidding along the surface. Drill bits are brittle, and give little notice of being over-stressed. They don't really bend, they just break, especially once the bit is in a ways. So, be sure to drive in straight, and pull back out straight.
 
Cagey said:
So, be sure to drive in straight, and pull back out straight.


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Ah, those holes, that makes sense! lol

The size of the rings depend on the height of the bridge and whether or not you have an angled neck pocket or not. Typically Les Pauls have the short ring on the neck pickup and the tall ring on the bridge pickup. Think of how a Les Paul bridge vs a Strat Bridge work and how high above the guitar body the strings are. The setup will determine what type of rings to use...most Strats have shorter flat rings.

Several rulers/straight edges along with angles should be used if you are super OCD about things lining up. I thought the pilot hole should be there for the strap pins, might be wrong on that...if not just eyeball the center is what I would do on those ;)

No worries man, ask away and congrats on your first build–once you get started it will be super hard to stop!

GuitarNoob said:
Thank you.

I'll have the body by the start of next week, I'm currently tracking it and it has just left the continental United States. I'll upload a photo then.

So it doesn't matter that they're both short and angled? Most of the examples I've seen use completely flat rings, or a taller one for the bridge pickup that's all.

Sorry it's not the neck I need pilot holes for. It's the pickup frames, strap locks, side and back plates. Just wondered if anyone had any tips to make it easier for someone with little experience. I'm afraid I'll chip or mar the finish in some way.

I've bought both the neck and body from Warmoth. Considering the time and money invested so far I'd like to get this done right the first time, hence the noob questions. Appreciate any help.

 
Thanks for the replies. I'll update the thread as the body arrives and I've got it all together. Fingers crossed I don't **** it up!
 
GuitarNoob said:
Thanks for the replies. I'll update the thread as the body arrives and I've got it all together. Fingers crossed I don't **** it up!

Most welcome dude and looking forward to the progress! Please update us with pics if you can!
 
Ok so the body arrived today, and although it looks fantastic, I've noticed a few problems.

The stereo jack hole is marginally too small for the jack I'm using, and the holes for the pickup wiring are as well. In addition, the square side plate for the jack doesn't seem to fit the body at all.

Are these issues easily fixed? Could I just take it to a local luthier and have the holes enlarged, or am I screwed?

I've attached a photo of everything just sitting together without screws.
 

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Taking it to a luthier is definitely a way to get it straightened out; however, I am curious as to how "small" is too small...most I've seen are very small indeed and if you start enlarging the hole you might just go to far if you are not too careful...don't want to drill/route through the body finish.

I thought the squares were more for Les Paul type bodies, usually the Strat styles use a football jack cover. Can you bend the square plate at all? I've had to bend some football plates to the contour of the body.

I would say you are not screwed, some more pics would be helpful.
 
I'm using EMG's solderless pickups with their 3 way toggle switch hub. It's fantastic for those of us with no soldering talents to speak of, but the connectors on the leads are just a bit too large to fit through the regular tunnel normal wires would go in. I'll need to ask the luthier at the store I suppose, I really hope It's not too big a deal to make it fit, I'd rather not have to cut the leads and reattach them.

The stereo jack is the same problem. The one supplied with my EMG kit is just a fraction too large for the rout in the body, It will not go in at all. It's my fault for not choosing the larger size..

The square jack plate does seem to be more for a Les Paul style body, I messed up there as well :(
 
GuitarNoob said:
I'm using EMG's solderless pickups with their 3 way toggle switch hub. It's fantastic for those of us with no soldering talents to speak of, but the connectors on the leads are just a bit too large to fit through the regular tunnel normal wires would go in. I'll need to ask the luthier at the store I suppose, I really hope It's not too big a deal to make it fit, I'd rather not have to cut the leads and reattach them.

The stereo jack is the same problem. The one supplied with my EMG kit is just a fraction too large for the rout in the body, It will not go in at all. It's my fault for not choosing the larger size..

The square jack plate does seem to be more for a Les Paul style body, I messed up there as well :(

Ahh, the EMGs with the solderless stuff makes sense for being too bid...I've had to needle some wire through some very small holes before but not the solderless stuff.

I've never dealt with those (personally never jived with EMGs) so I apologize but I don't have any advice here other than take it to a reputable luthier.
 
I had to help my output jack on my VIP when I put in the EMG stereo jack.  Some sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver let me slowly enlarge the hole.  It was close but definitely wasn't going to fit when I first tried it.
I can imagine there's a tool that would facilitate it, but I don't own it, so the sandpaper works, albeit slowly.

I don't have the square jack (used football) but I've heard they're fairly soft. Some have had luck just screwing it in and it submits. It may need some convincing.
Disclaimer: I'm not afraid to whack things with hammers and I haven't done this! (to this particular part) - Possibly putting it on a screwdriver or maglight handle, cover with towel, give it some hammer love will persuade it to become more curved.
 
I've had to enlarge my jack hole (that sound's so wrong) and I used an old reamer that my grandfather gave me in his will (he had a plethora of high quality vintage tools) and just carefully turned it, applying very little pressure until it was wide enough.
Sandpaper around a screwdriver also works though, it will take a bit longer depending on the grit you use.
 
Plenty of good advice above - like Timmsie did, just find a quiet place where you can be on your own and spend a little time enlarging your jack hole. In all seriousness, this is a common problem with the 3/4" hole, just make sure you protect the finish properly before you attack it with reamers, files, sandpaper etc. It's all part of the fun of putting your own guitar together.

The plastic parts of the EMG connectors can easily be removed - there is a tiny tang on each metal part holding it in place. Just poke something appropriate in the little square hole and carefully pull them out. Make sure you can identify which wire goes where! You should then be able to thread the wires through.

XTXS1310.jpg
 
^ Yep, that's how I have wired up solderless emg systems with battery boxes with the leads attached, I just switched the pin and plastic housing to the wires from the battery box.
 
I've contacted the luthier nearby and he said he'd be happy to look at it and it shouldn't be a huge problem. I'd really rather professional hands touching it rather than myself.

I didn't even think about trying to take off the connector, that's a great idea, I'll have to let him known when I take it in.

I'll have to order the football jack, It was just plain dumb of me to order the square without making sure it was compatible.

Dropping it all off this weekend, and I should have it back by the following one. I'll be sure to post photos.

Thanks everyone!
 
GuitarNoob said:
I've contacted the luthier nearby and he said he'd be happy to look at it and it shouldn't be a huge problem. I'd really rather professional hands touching it rather than myself.

I didn't even think about trying to take off the connector, that's a great idea, I'll have to let him known when I take it in.

I'll have to order the football jack, It was just plain dumb of me to order the square without making sure it was compatible.

Dropping it all off this weekend, and I should have it back by the following one. I'll be sure to post photos.

Thanks everyone!

Sweet man! The Luthier should be able to get it fixed up for ya!

And its not dumb; rather, its a lesson learned :) Just be glad it wasn't the wrong bridge you bought as those are more expensive oversights ;)
 
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