BegginerFinisher
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Rick
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I don't know about nitro but when it comes to enamel latex oil or water based paints the coldest application temp is 55, and above 35 at night to avoid frost. This comes from experience painting bicycles houses and furniture.
Have you thought about spraying outside on a windless day and bringing it inside to dry?
Have you thought about spraying outside on a windless day and bringing it inside to dry?
BegginerFinisher
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Rick
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Why not, give it a shot. though with a tent you have to figure out breathing, if that's a concern. I suppose it all depends on how much spraying is going on.
Plus you can use the tent afterwards to start your favorite herbs. When I've used spray cans on cooler days I heat up the can in some hot tap water for a couple minutes. As I said, I have no experience with nitro. Nitro is probably trickier than, say a wipe on oil.
I think they have books on this topic, but I don't know what they are.
Plus you can use the tent afterwards to start your favorite herbs. When I've used spray cans on cooler days I heat up the can in some hot tap water for a couple minutes. As I said, I have no experience with nitro. Nitro is probably trickier than, say a wipe on oil.
I think they have books on this topic, but I don't know what they are.
stratamania
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It is not something I would want to attempt. You need more consistent temperature and humidity.
BegginerFinisher
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stratamania said:
Well unfortunately that’s not an option for me, I guess I will just have to go through the extra steps and make sure that the temp and humidity is right before and after spraying
Rick
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You know, I've called stew mac and spoke with Dan's assistant, they guy who appears in some of the youtube videos if memory serves me, I got good advice from them on parts measurements. I don't see why a quick phone call about their laquer wouldn't yield similar results.
stratamania
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BegginerFinisher said:
Not to dampen your spirits but be prepared to have perhaps a less than straightforward process. You might end up with more steps and different results than you may prefer.
BegginerFinisher
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stratamania said:
Well it seems I’m out of options. If a sealed, dehumidified, and heated tent won’t work. I guess nothing besides a garage or professional spray booth will work. Guess I’ll be sending it back
stratamania
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BegginerFinisher said:
It might work, I am just saying it is less than optimum. Finishing is not really a shortcut or time saver generally speaking.
DuckBaloo
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If you can shoot the nitro in the sun on dry 60°F days, then it might be fine. Nitro isn't as much temperature sensitive as it is humidity sensitive, but cooler temps can make rattle cans splatter and drip. With solid colors, those drips can be leveled after all color coats before clear coat. But, as stratamania noted, if you're shooting in less than optimal conditions, then you're going to a more difficult time and more issues could arise. I live in a high humidity area, so I shoot April-May and Sept-Oct. and that's about it, and I'm not above ordering a finished body.
You haven't said if you would be shooting on a patio, balcony, common area, or what, but you need to be able to isolate yourself from the rest of the tenants. Nitro fumes are high VOS, it another tenant can smell the fumes, then it is harming them, plus the fumes can combust if they find a spark. Not really high-density living friendly.
You haven't said if you would be shooting on a patio, balcony, common area, or what, but you need to be able to isolate yourself from the rest of the tenants. Nitro fumes are high VOS, it another tenant can smell the fumes, then it is harming them, plus the fumes can combust if they find a spark. Not really high-density living friendly.
Seamas
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I've done rattle can nitro on three guitars. All during spring and/or fall.
Most of the time I sprayed on windless nights/evenings, temps between high 40s and mid 60s.
I had a bucket that I would fill with hot tap water--even some water from the kettle. I'd let the can sit in that for five minutes or so. That got the lacquer good and warm.
I would spray outside and bring the body (or neck) into the basement and let it dry.
It will out-gas for a while, so I wouldn't have it hanging in living quarters if I could help it.
I would do 2-3 coats, (a few hours or a day between coats), let it sit a day or two, lightly sand with 320 pad and repeat. I usually will total about 12-15 coats, then let it cure for 2-4 weeks before sanding/polishing.
Most of the time I sprayed on windless nights/evenings, temps between high 40s and mid 60s.
I had a bucket that I would fill with hot tap water--even some water from the kettle. I'd let the can sit in that for five minutes or so. That got the lacquer good and warm.
I would spray outside and bring the body (or neck) into the basement and let it dry.
It will out-gas for a while, so I wouldn't have it hanging in living quarters if I could help it.
I would do 2-3 coats, (a few hours or a day between coats), let it sit a day or two, lightly sand with 320 pad and repeat. I usually will total about 12-15 coats, then let it cure for 2-4 weeks before sanding/polishing.
Rick
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Yeah ... fresh air is important. I once redid a bicycle in my apartment in Brooklyn. I forget what I used for paint remover, but my face was numb and I was drooling. My wife asked me if I felt OK, and it wasn't until she asked that I knew something was wrong. My face couldn't move. Fortunately, I had finished stripping the bike, but I wouldn't do that again.
Mx481james
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Blues don't change. Just saw you moved your topic .
Over here . I know it's to cold now but wanted to comment.
Don't get discouraged , sometimes people get negative on internet forms . There's a lot of self-righteousness on the internet.
I've done a lot of spraying and your paint booth idea is a good one . I built a booth by hanging plastic sheets .
I like your idea better . The thing is you need to have a fan to draw the fumes away. I have a old oven exhaust fan mounted low on the floor . Unfortunately you shouldn't just use any old fan it should be blow proof ( won't catch fire) as lacquer fumes can ignite. You also need a filter , mine is up high in my booth . I have a cheap harbor freight paint suit and respirator mask , around $35 total.
What people have said about humidity is very true , I use a little humidity gauge, only spray 55 % or under .
I get fender quality lacquer paint jobs out of my setup. Lacquer is very forgiving , it can be sanded and polished
to a beautiful result. It takes patience with multiple layers of finish.
I always suggest to look up furniture finishing with lacquer and automotive painting techniques.
Now don't discount standing out in the yard with a spray can either when the temperatures and humidity are right. I've seen some great results from people doing that . Maybe not professional results but very nice still .
You didn't mention in your original post what type of finish you were looking to achieve? If it's an old school relic finish you really don't have to try for perfection. You're just going to beat it up and age it anyway .
If you haven't sprayed your body yet take your time fill your wood don't skip any procedure. If you have sprayed and not happy Don't panic . You can carefully sand and start again which anyone that's done finishing work has done more then once lol
Over here . I know it's to cold now but wanted to comment.
Don't get discouraged , sometimes people get negative on internet forms . There's a lot of self-righteousness on the internet.
I've done a lot of spraying and your paint booth idea is a good one . I built a booth by hanging plastic sheets .
I like your idea better . The thing is you need to have a fan to draw the fumes away. I have a old oven exhaust fan mounted low on the floor . Unfortunately you shouldn't just use any old fan it should be blow proof ( won't catch fire) as lacquer fumes can ignite. You also need a filter , mine is up high in my booth . I have a cheap harbor freight paint suit and respirator mask , around $35 total.
What people have said about humidity is very true , I use a little humidity gauge, only spray 55 % or under .
I get fender quality lacquer paint jobs out of my setup. Lacquer is very forgiving , it can be sanded and polished
to a beautiful result. It takes patience with multiple layers of finish.
I always suggest to look up furniture finishing with lacquer and automotive painting techniques.
Now don't discount standing out in the yard with a spray can either when the temperatures and humidity are right. I've seen some great results from people doing that . Maybe not professional results but very nice still .
You didn't mention in your original post what type of finish you were looking to achieve? If it's an old school relic finish you really don't have to try for perfection. You're just going to beat it up and age it anyway .
If you haven't sprayed your body yet take your time fill your wood don't skip any procedure. If you have sprayed and not happy Don't panic . You can carefully sand and start again which anyone that's done finishing work has done more then once lol
