Finishing the head veneer

[jeffjozwiak]

I have a Gecko-5 neck that is unfinished. I would like to apply clear gloss to the head stock. I live in an apartment so I don't have a lot of resources to do this right. Can anyone recommend a way to put a clear gloss (urethane) on just the veneer portion? Masking tape? Urethane in a spray can? Should this be left to a professional?

Joz

 

[NonsenseTele]

PU may not be the best one, from what people say here... it would start cracking, if applyed only on the front of headstock. Perhaps Tru-oil or Tung-oil (can get high gloss but still can have edges)

Wait a little and will come the finish guys here
Cheers!
Welcome to the forum ccasion14:

 

[greywolf]

you can tape it off and shoot it with Nitro , Stew -mac sells it , just wear a mask and work where there is venilation .  ( put it on a box in the tub , shoot , then go for a ride, leave the fan on)

 

[jeffjozwiak]

I'm going to add further detail on my question.

I have a bubinga neck and body with walnut veneer. The body has been clear gloss finished by Warmoth. I'm considering the best approach to finishing the neck, which they wanted nothing to do with. I'm open to oiling it or some other lacquer-type finish. I would like the head to match the body in appearance. I'm not sure what would work best. Just doing the veneer, or trying to finish the headstock entirely.

Also, should I finish the neck portion in anyway?  Warmoth states that no finish is necessary but would an oil be a good idea?

joz

 

[tfcreative]

I would not finish a bubinga neck. It will feel better and won't suffer for lack of a finish.

 

[jackthehack]

Just tape off the veneered front of the headstock and finish the flat front over the veneer. If you don't have any place to shoot aerosols, you could use clear gloss rub on Minwax Poly, available everywhere.

 

[Keyser Soze]

Yep.  Tape off the rest of the headstock then apply finish to the veneer.

The only thing I would consider is how best to match the Warmoth finish.  Many PU finishes have a bit of yellow to them upon curing and many of them are notorious for yellowing even more with time - especially the oil based products.  On most woods (other than real light colors) this is not a problem and not particularly noticeable.  But in your case the headstock is going to be right next to the body - if they are off, or behave differently with time it will be visible.

Some of the newer water based poly-acrylic products are truly colorless / water clear and do not yellow with age.  General Finishes makes a really nice one called GF PolyAcrylic, it is very popular in the woodworking community.   

You might want to ask Warmoth for some particulars on more specifics of what type of product they use or if they can recommend something with similar visual characteristics.  You might even get closest with a lacquer or spray acrylic.

 

[jeffjozwiak]

Keyser Soze,

I will contact Warmoth and see what they recommend. I ordered some Nitro Stew-Mac but will wait on Warmoth.

Another poster here was concerned about chipping/cracking I guess because of the edge. Hopefully that won't be a problem.

joz