Faber Tom bridge

[Flounderkeg]

Ive been planning out this build for a jazzcaster, really want to have a tom/stopbar bridge. Warmoth offers one but I'm really interested in the ones made by Faber. Has anyone tried to install a Faber bridge on a warmoth body? I've gone to their website but there a different types of tom bridges so I'm just a little confused. Also am wondering if the fretboard radius needs to be a certain measurement to work with a tom bridge, or if it varies between tom bridges or if it doesn't matter at all. Thank ye

 

[Strat Avenger]

I'd go with Tone Pros.

 

[Flounderkeg]

I'd go with Tone Pros.

Any particular reason?

 

[Strat Avenger]

Any particular reason?

I like the design and the quality. I like the locking bridge & tailpiece.

 

[ragamuffin]

Warmoth's t.o.m. bridge route is drilled for metric/import t.o.m. bushings. So if you go with Faber you need to make sure to get the set with the "Epiphone/import conversion" bridge posts/studs.

I've heard that Faber parts are great quality and I don't doubt that but damn they're expensive. But if you're willing to shell out for it I don't see any reason not to do it!

Pretty much every t.o.m. bridge is built for a 12" radius, but if your willing to modify the bridge just a bit you can file the saddle notches a little deeper on the outer saddles (to fit a tighter radius) or file down the inner saddle notches (to get a fit a flatter radius). I have two Warmoth builds with t.o.m.s and 12-16" compound radius necks and went that route. With the 12-16" compound radius you want around 18" radius at the bridge.

 

[Flounderkeg]

Warmoth's t.o.m. bridge route is drilled for metric/import t.o.m. bushings. So if you go with Faber you need to make sure to get the set with the "Epiphone/import conversion" bridge posts/studs.

I've heard that Faber parts are great quality and I don't doubt that but damn they're expensive. But if you're willing to shell out for it I don't see any reason not to do it!

Pretty much every t.o.m. bridge is built for a 12" radius, but if your willing to modify the bridge just a bit you can file the saddle notches a little deeper on the outer saddles (to fit a tighter radius) or file down the inner saddle notches (to get a fit a flatter radius). I have two Warmoth builds with t.o.m.s and 12-16" compound radius necks and went that route. With the 12-16" compound radius you want around 18" radius at th

Thanks I appreciate the info. My idea for the guitar is pretty simple, one pickup etc so im saving a bit of money, I can shell out a couple extra bucks for a better bridge id love to try it. Always used stock bridges so just curious to how much better they can be. And i was going to go for a 12 radius anyways so that's a relief.

 

[rockandroller]

To be honest i doubt this system is any better than tonepro, and aside from convenience in string changes, any 'advantage' of a locking TOM is fairly insignificant.

 

[Hodgo]

I’ve chased the TOM dragon with Faber, Pigtail, TonePros, and Gotoh.

TonePros are just Gotohs (flip one over, it says Gotoh on the bottom). The difference is the locking feature which I find to be wholly unnecessary… just leave one string on when restringing.

Actually “just Gotoh” sounds bad… Gotoh makes a fine TOM. That’s my go to recommendation.

Faber is great and when I upgraded my Epiphone with their metric set there was a marked, audible improvement in sustain and resonance. I also used a Faber on my SG with a Maestro trem specifically because the metric bridge w ABR-1 studs acts like a rocker, which makes the trem work better.

Pigtail - unless you’re replicating a 59 Burst, not worth. I also think you can’t get them anymore.

TLDR Gotoh unless you really need a locker then TonePros, Faber if you’ve got the coin and want something that looks right and will sound great.

 

[Tretgeraet]

I just noticed there's a Faber Germany and a Faber USA page... are they the same?

The Faber Germany prices didn't seem that expensive... Well, because I admittedly compared them to ABM, just to throw another manufacturer in there...

My only experience with ABM though, is from their compensated tele saddles, which are great. And since I know their factory is just a stonethrow from where I work, visiting that factory is on my list.

Local businesses ftw! I guess, if I'd build something with a TOM, I'd probably also spend some extra money... just out of sheer curiousity and admiration for good craftsmanship.

 

[Flounderkeg]

Warmoth's t.o.m. bridge route is drilled for metric/import t.o.m. bushings. So if you go with Faber you need to make sure to get the set with the "Epiphone/import conversion" bridge posts/studs.

I've heard that Faber parts are great quality and I don't doubt that but damn they're expensive. But if you're willing to shell out for it I don't see any reason not to do it!

Pretty much every t.o.m. bridge is built for a 12" radius, but if your willing to modify the bridge just a bit you can file the saddle notches a little deeper on the outer saddles (to fit a tighter radius) or file down the inner saddle notches (to get a fit a flatter radius). I have two Warmoth builds with t.o.m.s and 12-16" compound radius necks and went that route. With the 12-16" compound radius you want around 18" radius at th

Thanks I appreciate the info. My idea for the guitar is pretty simple, one pickup etc so im saving a bit of money, I can shell out a couple extra bucks for a better bridge id love to try it. Always used stock bridges so just curious to how much better they can be. I was going to go for a 12 radius anyways so that's a relief.

I’ve chased the TOM dragon with Faber, Pigtail, TonePros, and Gotoh.

TonePros are just Gotohs (flip one over, it says Gotoh on the bottom). The difference is the locking feature which I find to be wholly unnecessary… just leave one string on when restringing.

Actually “just Gotoh” sounds bad… Gotoh makes a fine TOM. That’s my go to recommendation.

Faber is great and when I upgraded my Epiphone with their metric set there was a marked, audible improvement in sustain and resonance. I also used a Faber on my SG with a Maestro trem specifically because the metric bridge w ABR-1 studs acts like a rocker, which makes the trem work better.

Pigtail - unless you’re replicating a 59 Burst, not worth. I also think you can’t get them anymore.

TLDR Gotoh unless you really need a locker then TonePros, Faber if you’ve got the coin and want something that looks right and will sound great.

Tom dragon lol. I think I may just try the Faber. Do you have any recommendations on the materials? I see they have titanium and brass saddles and also a hybrid model as well as a bell brass bridge. The guitar ideally is going to be solid mahogany with one humbucker, mahogany neck and ebony or rosewood fretboard. Also I hear ppl talk a lot ab aluminum stopbars? What's up with that, is there something that they add?

 

[TBurst Std]

No experience with Faber. But have used Pigtail. Nice product but within 2 months, when top wrapped, it developed a groove that would break strings.

It did sound better. Went back to the factory tp. I now have pretty retired that guitar. It’s coming up on 50 years old. Use my R9 instead.

 

[Hodgo]

Thanks I appreciate the info. My idea for the guitar is pretty simple, one pickup etc so im saving a bit of money, I can shell out a couple extra bucks for a better bridge id love to try it. Always used stock bridges so just curious to how much better they can be. I was going to go for a 12 radius anyways so that's a relief.

Tom dragon lol. I think I may just try the Faber. Do you have any recommendations on the materials? I see they have titanium and brass saddles and also a hybrid model as well as a bell brass bridge. The guitar ideally is going to be solid mahogany with one humbucker, mahogany neck and ebony or rosewood fretboard. Also I hear ppl talk a lot ab aluminum stopbars? What's up with that, is there something that they add?

I have only ever ordered nickel plated brass saddles except for one bridge with nylon saddles on a project I never finished, I have no experience with titanium saddles on any guitar. As far as a bell brass bridge - also never tried that. Sorry!

Aluminum stoptails - I use them, they sound fine, however I think it’s more important to ensure you have steel studs/bushings that fit snugly. The Epiphone I referenced had a cheap pot metal setup from the factory and got a full Faber refresh, and the stock studs literally fell out during replacement.

Before:

After:

 

[Don O]

I have only ever ordered nickel plated brass saddles except for one bridge with nylon saddles on a project I never finished, I have no experience with titanium saddles on any guitar. As far as a bell brass bridge - also never tried that. Sorry!

Aluminum stoptails - I use them, they sound fine, however I think it’s more important to ensure you have steel studs/bushings that fit snugly. The Epiphone I referenced had a cheap pot metal setup from the factory and got a full Faber refresh, and the stock studs literally fell out during replacement.

Before:
View attachment 68622
After:
View attachment 68623

I did a Faber upgrade to my Epi LP ultra. The stock studs were pulling out of the body on both sides.

 

[Flounderkeg]

I have only ever ordered nickel plated brass saddles except for one bridge with nylon saddles on a project I never finished, I have no experience with titanium saddles on any guitar. As far as a bell brass bridge - also never tried that. Sorry!

Aluminum stoptails - I use them, they sound fine, however I think it’s more important to ensure you have steel studs/bushings that fit snugly. The Epiphone I referenced had a cheap pot metal setup from the factory and got a full Faber refresh, and the stock studs literally fell out during replacement.

Before:
View attachment 68622
After:
View attachment 68623

YO that guitar is sick!! How do the nickel played brass saddles sound?