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Exotic Woods require an isolator coating?

baskruit

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From warmoth.com:

"Isolator
Exotic Woods require an isolator coating which seals in the natural oils of the wood and protects the finish from the inside."

Just wondering: What's used for this isolator coating? How does this all work?
 
I went a-Googlin', and it appears that the isolator is, chemically, an intermediate coating that won't be completely at odds with the oils in the exotic wood - in all the examples I saw, the proposed isolator was dewaxed, thick-cut shellac, and no guarantees of success.  The wood oils would, if not isolated from the final coating, cause the coating to become a sticky mess, and never to harden completely.

Perhaps one of the guys who really knows what he's talking about can weigh in as to the chemistry involved - all I know is if I ever get a body with a cocobolo top, I'll pay Warmoth to finish it for me. 

Peace

bagman
 
wtf?!?!? I thought that warmoth specifically says that many of these woods don't need a finish. Where on the website are you getting this info?
 
rockskate4x said:
wtf?!?!? I thought that warmoth specifically says that many of these woods don't need a finish. Where on the website are you getting this info?
IF you want to finish them, you apparently need an isolator coating. I'd imagine that a Bubinga body would look mighty fine with a gloss finish.
 
Yep, it's an "IF" instruction - IF you want to finish one of the oily woods, you'll need an isolator coating - but you need not bother, if you want that unfinished look and feel.
 
rockskate4x said:
wtf?!?!? I thought that warmoth specifically says that many of these woods don't need a finish. Where on the website are you getting this info?
the old warmoth website http://www.warmoth.com/Paint/Clear.aspx
 
GratefullyRedd said:
the old warmoth website http://www.warmoth.com/Paint/Clear.aspx
Exactly. So now I'm wondering what's used. At least I assume that it's not just another coat of laquer.

Reason: I've put some money aside and I've allowed myself to order one neck this year and I will either pair it with an existing body or (even better) I'll take a stab at carving one myself.
 
I wonder if this would work: http://www.zinsseruk.com/shop/Product.aspx?cId=123&pgId=339&tId=Overview (Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat)
 
Zinsser is a good sealer.  Plain old shellac in a 1 pound cut is also a good sealer. 

If you are going to grain fill then use one coat, fill as you normally would, then apply two more coats.

I suspect the reason Warmoth says 'isolator' instead of 'sealer' is that many products are sold as 'sand and sealer,' but they are often just topcoat type materials made with a high solids content and lubricants to promote easy sanding - ie. they don't actually seal anything, they just build rapidly and sand easily for final surface preparation, but contaminants (or natural oils) can still bleed through them. 
 
Interesting..
I finished 3 rosewood topped bodies, one with Tung Oil, one with Tru Oil and one with Danish oil.... none of them where really easy to do.. Wish I has used some shellac on it first now  :-\
 
Marko said:
Interesting..
I finished 3 rosewood topped bodies, one with Tung Oil, one with Tru Oil and one with Danish oil.... none of them where really easy to do.. Wish I has used some shellac on it first now  :-\
Marko
I am interested in your feedback on which of the oil finishes was the best, taking into account how they looked when finished and how they have stood the test of time, ie: what they look like after a bit of use.
Thanks
 
I have to say that I liked the way the tung oil turned out... having said that, it took a long time and a lot of work to get it right..
but it looks even better over time. it is what CB would call a "heirloom finish"

the other 2 turned out pretty good too. although, we need to buff and polish the tru oil finish on the rosewood top for luke's tele a bit more
 
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