E-Z Lok threaded inserts
- Thread starter SrDeMaFp
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Watershed
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Yes, I'm interested in trying that out on a build I am doing. I haven't done it yet, so I'm not much help at this point. I'm using ferrules instead of the neckplate, but was thinking of using inserts in the neck. I found a guy who sell kits complete with machine screws for about $30.00. The link you provided seems to be the same sort of insert. The only thing I'm unsure of at this point is the size to get and where to find matching machine screws.
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Watershed
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Here's a good link:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=163.0
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=163.0
SkuttleFunk
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just be careful about the specifics of the inserts you're using ... and even greater detail to the tools and installation workflows used
if you're sloppy or make poor tool/workflow choices it is VERY EASY to seriously damage your neck
p.s. you're planning to utilize part number 400-3-CR and NOT one of the brass parts, right?
all the best,
R
if you're sloppy or make poor tool/workflow choices it is VERY EASY to seriously damage your neck
p.s. you're planning to utilize part number 400-3-CR and NOT one of the brass parts, right?
all the best,
R
SkuttleFunk
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brass has a tendency to crack as it's being installed into hardwoods like Maple. the last thing you want to be fixing during an installs is cracked inserts
stainless inserts, and also the hardened steel inserts, are wonderful. even so, it's highly recommended that you practice on some scrap Maple before attempting to install these on a real neck. you'll learn a lot on the first few you install - and this should help you get them installed perfectly perpendicular to the neck mounting face
you planning to utilize a drill press to do this install job?
all the best,
R
stainless inserts, and also the hardened steel inserts, are wonderful. even so, it's highly recommended that you practice on some scrap Maple before attempting to install these on a real neck. you'll learn a lot on the first few you install - and this should help you get them installed perfectly perpendicular to the neck mounting face
you planning to utilize a drill press to do this install job?
all the best,
R
SkuttleFunk said:
Didn't know that about the brass inserts
Thanks for the info, man. I am going to practice on some solid maple boards I have at my parents' place. No way in hell I wanna have several hundred $ worth of beautiful but, useless firewood. Actually, I was going to ask my landlord if I could use his drill press because my Pops don't have one nor do I know anyone else who does so, I got my fingers crossed that he'd let me use it. I don't see why not, he's a nice guy but, we'll see. I definitely would MUCH prefer to use a drill press.SkuttleFunk
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let me just give you the best piece of advice on inserts you're going to get ... if you don't have access to a drill press - DON'T DO THE MOD YOURSELF!
it is absolutely critical that you control the center dead on, and that your drill angle is dead on perpendicular to the heel face. it's simply impossible to do this correctly without a drill press. if you don't have access to one, install the neck with wood screws and do this mod later when you can use a drill press
sure, others have been able to do this without one, but it simply isn't worth the risk to botch a neck because you got impatient
I've done a ton of insert installations on necks (it's a standard feature on all of my basses), and let me tell you that it's easy enough to botch the job with a drill press (yes, I've had to scrap a couple necks because of a misaligned insert. it's easier for me since I'm just out time and raw materials. I would be crying if I had messed up a purchased neck - and I came very close on two W neck installs - even with a drill press - simply because I allowed myself to become distracted and start rushing the job)
if you need any future assistance, don't hesitate to keep this thread alive.
all the best,
R
it is absolutely critical that you control the center dead on, and that your drill angle is dead on perpendicular to the heel face. it's simply impossible to do this correctly without a drill press. if you don't have access to one, install the neck with wood screws and do this mod later when you can use a drill press
sure, others have been able to do this without one, but it simply isn't worth the risk to botch a neck because you got impatient
I've done a ton of insert installations on necks (it's a standard feature on all of my basses), and let me tell you that it's easy enough to botch the job with a drill press (yes, I've had to scrap a couple necks because of a misaligned insert. it's easier for me since I'm just out time and raw materials. I would be crying if I had messed up a purchased neck - and I came very close on two W neck installs - even with a drill press - simply because I allowed myself to become distracted and start rushing the job)
if you need any future assistance, don't hesitate to keep this thread alive.
all the best,
R
What ya wanna do, to set up the neck in the drill press....
Is put the heel of the neck flat on the drill press table, then place the vice upside down over it. Make sure they're both flat on the table, then clamp the neck (padded with carboard works well). When you turn it over, right way up, the heel will be facing the chuck, and the neck will be level.... This assumes that the table is set up correctly (90 degrees) and the vice is also parallel top and bottom... most are unless really really cheapo.
Plug the old hole first, that way you can use a forstener bit (edge cutting), and ease the hole into the wood. Set the stop on the drill press so you cant over drill too deeply. You want a medium slow speed for most forstener bits. They tend to get hot when you run them fast, and the small ones dont have much metal to dissipate the heat, so you can ruin the bit if you're not careful.
Is put the heel of the neck flat on the drill press table, then place the vice upside down over it. Make sure they're both flat on the table, then clamp the neck (padded with carboard works well). When you turn it over, right way up, the heel will be facing the chuck, and the neck will be level.... This assumes that the table is set up correctly (90 degrees) and the vice is also parallel top and bottom... most are unless really really cheapo.
Plug the old hole first, that way you can use a forstener bit (edge cutting), and ease the hole into the wood. Set the stop on the drill press so you cant over drill too deeply. You want a medium slow speed for most forstener bits. They tend to get hot when you run them fast, and the small ones dont have much metal to dissipate the heat, so you can ruin the bit if you're not careful.
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Watershed
Guest
I ordered the stainless inserts from McFeely's. It uses a 9/32" hole and I was going to use a tap to get the threads started. I have a drill press and agree that the odds of success without a press are slim. I'm using a 16" radius sanding block (it's a compound radius board) with a clamp to secure the neck to the press.
What I can not for the life of me find, however, are 10-24 machine screws in black. I have found numerous in stainless and even some in a gold sort of finish at Lowes of all places. Does anyone know where I can source 10-24 black oval head Phillips machine screws? I found some that use a hex key, but I'm looking for the oval head Phillips.
Also, I don't see the "part number 400-3-CR". What vendor/supplier is that?
Thanks
What I can not for the life of me find, however, are 10-24 machine screws in black. I have found numerous in stainless and even some in a gold sort of finish at Lowes of all places. Does anyone know where I can source 10-24 black oval head Phillips machine screws? I found some that use a hex key, but I'm looking for the oval head Phillips.
Also, I don't see the "part number 400-3-CR". What vendor/supplier is that?
Thanks
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Watershed
Guest
Oh, I'm stupid, 400-3-CR is the E-Z Lock stainless insert.
"Ask first, check later".
Seems to work out to a 12/32' hole.
Anyway, I definitely can't seem to find black machine screws.
Any help would be great.
"Ask first, check later".
Seems to work out to a 12/32' hole.
Anyway, I definitely can't seem to find black machine screws.
Any help would be great.
W
Watershed
Guest
LOL
Yea, that looks like the best option at this point.
We'll see how well it sticks to the screw.
Yea, that looks like the best option at this point.
We'll see how well it sticks to the screw.
CarteBlanche
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Do you think this will be possible on a wenge neck?
NonsenseTele
Epic Member
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If I'm correct it's possible in any wood, as long as you do it right (better follor Mr Skuttle Funk suggestions :icon_thumright
SkuttleFunk
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I've never installed inserts in a Wenge neck, so I can't say yea/nea from direct experience.
if you live anywhere close to a hardwood supplier (or can order off the net), I'd suggest a test insert or two to confirm it's a go and to also get the feel if the wood will need any additional side support when self-threading the inserts in. I'd also be concerned about breaking my installation tool into the inserts threads if you encounter too much resistance
all the best,
R
if you live anywhere close to a hardwood supplier (or can order off the net), I'd suggest a test insert or two to confirm it's a go and to also get the feel if the wood will need any additional side support when self-threading the inserts in. I'd also be concerned about breaking my installation tool into the inserts threads if you encounter too much resistance
all the best,
R
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Watershed
Guest
I hope it works on a wenge neck. I have one that I will be doing this to. I'm also doing the recessed ferrules, so I had to redrill the holes closer to center as not have the ferrule break out the side of the heel.
As such, I will have to plug and redrill the holes in the neck. I'm using 1/4 walnut dowels for this.
The thread will likely be in contact with both the walnut and wenge.
The density of the wenge doesn't seem much different than maple except for the huge pores.
The inserts I'm using have a rather shallow thread especially for hardwoods and are stainless.
The threads also seem to be made in such a way that they will facilitate the cutting action necessary to go in all the way and cut the thread into the wood. No tap necessary.
I also plan to use a drop or two of lightweight superglue to penetrate the insert/wood contact area.
Check out the McFeely's, they have a shallower thread than the EZ Lock and require a smaller hole to be drilled in the neck.
I'll be getting to it in the next couple of weeks so I'll let you know.
Still need to sort out the black oval head phillips machine screw thing.
I found a place that will apply a black oxide finish to just about anything you send them.
They seem to do this a lot to golf clubs??
Perhaps Krylon will work, but I have a feeling that it just won't hold up very well or even chip off when I try to apply torque to the screw.
As such, I will have to plug and redrill the holes in the neck. I'm using 1/4 walnut dowels for this.
The thread will likely be in contact with both the walnut and wenge.
The density of the wenge doesn't seem much different than maple except for the huge pores.
The inserts I'm using have a rather shallow thread especially for hardwoods and are stainless.
The threads also seem to be made in such a way that they will facilitate the cutting action necessary to go in all the way and cut the thread into the wood. No tap necessary.
I also plan to use a drop or two of lightweight superglue to penetrate the insert/wood contact area.
Check out the McFeely's, they have a shallower thread than the EZ Lock and require a smaller hole to be drilled in the neck.
I'll be getting to it in the next couple of weeks so I'll let you know.
Still need to sort out the black oval head phillips machine screw thing.
I found a place that will apply a black oxide finish to just about anything you send them.
They seem to do this a lot to golf clubs??
Perhaps Krylon will work, but I have a feeling that it just won't hold up very well or even chip off when I try to apply torque to the screw.
