Leaderboard

drilling your own pot holes

hachikid

Senior Member
Messages
474
so, the order for Vincent is officially going in very soon. there's some custom things I may end up doing with the knobs, so the person on the phone elected to have no pot holes drilled. is there a special tool or way I need to drill the holes? the body will be finished, so I'm thinking about not messing up the paint here. or will just a regular drill bit and taping off the surrounding area work? it's a swamp ash body with no top, btw.
 
since its finished you will definitely need to tape off the surrounding areas to prevent chipping.i would also suggest using a drill press to guarantee a straight, round hole.
 
i've always heard start small, and work your way up to a large drill bit when you're first making the hole. can't help much more than that though unfortunately
 
Tape the face, drill from that side, and use either a 3/8" brad-point or Forstner bit. Both of those types of bits have centering points and outside flutes that will cut the outer diameter of the circle like a knife, rather than scrape from the center out like a twist drill bit does. No guarantee it won't chip, but the chances are dramatically reduced. You're also going to want to put flat washers under the top (finish side) nut, or the nut will do a lot more damage to your finished surface than any bit will.

F!BPD.jpg


Brad point bits...



collingwood


Forstner bit...



HSS-Twist-Drill-Bit-1.jpg


Twist drill bit...
 
Interesting thread... I'm about to do this to my carved top VIP.

The pots will be coming through an area of top which is not flat and actually part of a concave section where the carve begins to flatten out.

Is there a preferred method of securing the pot to a none flat surface, especially a concave one, or is it a case of bending the washer to match the concave radius and letting the nut grip the washer when it touches in the two highest places first as it tightens?
 
Try installing them and see if it's even going to be a problem. Just be sure to use a deep-well socket or nut driver to snug the nuts down.
 
I would put a piece of scrap in the cavity (ideally  the thickness of the cavity) when you drill
there will be no breakout a nice clean hole. The bit
Cagey posted is what i would use. Also easier to pinpoint location.
 
Cagey said:
Tape the face, drill from that side, and use either a 3/8" brad-point or Forstner bit. Both of those types of bits have centering points and outside flutes that will cut the outer diameter of the circle like a knife, rather than scrape from the center out like a twist drill bit does. No guarantee it won't chip, but the chances are dramatically reduced. You're also going to want to put flat washers under the top (finish side) nut, or the nut will do a lot more damage to your finished surface than any bit will.

F!BPD.jpg


Brad point bits...


I will give a big +1 to the brad point bits with the little wings on the outside. I have cut with all three (standard, brad, twist) and Brad points are the easiest to hit right on your mark, cut the nicest, and chip the least.

Definitely get some tape on there first though.
 
Back
Top