Drilling Holes
- Thread starter teledave
- Start date
SkuttleFunk
Hero Member
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- 1,156
same here ... just don't use the blue painter's tape on a Nitro finished body!
this is no problem if Warmoth did the finish job for you, as they don't finish in Nitro. but if you did the finish work yourself or had someone else finish it for you .... be careful of the blue tape until you know it's safe for the finish you're working on
and I should sadly note that I am not privvy to this warning by heresay. the rolls I had on-hand did not include a warning about the finish type it was being stuck to
fortunately, the new rolls do
all the best,
R
this is no problem if Warmoth did the finish job for you, as they don't finish in Nitro. but if you did the finish work yourself or had someone else finish it for you .... be careful of the blue tape until you know it's safe for the finish you're working on
and I should sadly note that I am not privvy to this warning by heresay. the rolls I had on-hand did not include a warning about the finish type it was being stuck to
fortunately, the new rolls doall the best,
R
The blue tape... any tape on nitro for more than a brief time can be real trouble!
I've been ok with drilling finished wood - nitro and poly (thick brittle poly too) with forstner bit. These can be reduced in diameter a bit if need be, by precision grinding (I've made a jig that can do this with a dremel doing the grinding and drill press doing the turning of the bit). But, most holes can be made ok with either an English or Metric pattern forstner bit. The forstners will cut the EDGE of the hole first, cutting thru the finish, then bore deeper. They tend to leave a slight "ring" around the bottom of the hole, showing that the edge was indeed bored first. They're also piloted to some extent with a center point.
Regular drill bits are horrible at cutting the edge.
Another good wood cutter is our friend, "Mr End Mill". And frankly, I'm damed surprised that Warmoth isnt using ground end mills to downcut into the wood after the fact, for control and bridge holes. Again, easily ground to any diameter without too much fuss. For those, its best to use a rotary indexer on a surface grinder though. End mills of any size are a bit too much to grind on a home made jig/dremel/drillpress.
I've been ok with drilling finished wood - nitro and poly (thick brittle poly too) with forstner bit. These can be reduced in diameter a bit if need be, by precision grinding (I've made a jig that can do this with a dremel doing the grinding and drill press doing the turning of the bit). But, most holes can be made ok with either an English or Metric pattern forstner bit. The forstners will cut the EDGE of the hole first, cutting thru the finish, then bore deeper. They tend to leave a slight "ring" around the bottom of the hole, showing that the edge was indeed bored first. They're also piloted to some extent with a center point.
Regular drill bits are horrible at cutting the edge.
Another good wood cutter is our friend, "Mr End Mill". And frankly, I'm damed surprised that Warmoth isnt using ground end mills to downcut into the wood after the fact, for control and bridge holes. Again, easily ground to any diameter without too much fuss. For those, its best to use a rotary indexer on a surface grinder though. End mills of any size are a bit too much to grind on a home made jig/dremel/drillpress.
