Drilling a hole in a hard finish?

[jackpax]

Here's the scenario: I'm looking at a Velocity body which only has the option in the builder for Strat style controls. IE, 3 circular holes (volume, tone, tone) and a long thin rout for a 5 way blade switch. The build will have 2 humbuckers with no split coil or other fancy wiring. The positions will be neck/neck&bridge/bridge. So I only want a 3 way switch. And I'm partial to a Gibson style toggle. The builder has the option to not have the blade switch rout. So if I buy a finished body, how destructive is it to drill a round hole large enough to accommodate the toggle switch? I'm new to this so buying an unfinished piece and finishing at home after drilling the hole is out of the question. Any and all thoughts are welcome and much appreciated.

 

[bagman67]

Well, the best case scenario is that you use a drill press and a Forstner bit to drill the hole, starting on the top of the guitar.  You'll want to clamp the body down and use a sacrificial board to protect against tear-out in the cavity.  If you are careful you can also pull it off with a handheld drill, but the chances of drilling your hole imperfectly go up a lot.

 

[line6man]

So if I buy a finished body, how destructive is it to drill a round hole large enough to accommodate the toggle switch?

The thought of that wouldn't have even occurred to me. Drill carefully with a forstner bit and tape, and you will be fine.

 

[Cagey]

These holes were drilled with a Forstner bit...

As you can see, no tear-out and they're nice and clean.

 

[whiskyboy1977]

I had the same issue with a start build so I just emailed Warmoth and asked them to enlarge the hole to accommodate the larger size needed for a Gibson style toggle, think it cost an extra $15.

 

[fdesalvo]

I'm in the same boat.  Waiting on my CTV.  Gonna be a while - just getting into production!  Can't wait to see your build.  I'm going to run 1 Vol, and a 3 Way Gibbo toggle for now.  Will add another volume/tone pot and mini toggle to control a Fishman or LR Baggs system later.

Anyway, with the tools mentioned, you could easily route the toggle into the upper horn and use an long bit to drill a wire channel into your neck pickup cavity.     

 

[DocNrock]

I didn't know about the Forstner bit.  The last time I enlarged a pot hole for a toggle, I used a Dremel.  It worked out pretty well. 

 

[Cagey]

I didn't know about the Forstner bit.  The last time I enlarged a pot hole for a toggle, I used a Dremel.  It worked out pretty well. 

Actually, Forstner bits aren't much good for enlarging holes, as they're more or less flat-bottomed. They're better for originating holes with very clean entry points and flat bottoms. But, if you have a drill press, you can sometimes get away with it.

 

[line6man]

If you are trying to enlarge a hole, the proper tool is a hand reamer. It gets the job done easily, and it's pretty much impossible to have any accidents.

Though if you want to use a forstner, plug the hole with a dowel first, so that you will have some material to set the brad point into. Without a center, the bit will walk.

 

[Alfang]

I use these type of bits, never had any issues

 

[pabloman]

Same here......they work great!

 

[fdesalvo]

You use these on wood?  I use them on my aluminum and steel chassis when I'm amp buildin', but couldn't see how the steps would be of use without driving the entire bit through the body.  The steps on mine are much shorter than the depth of the wood over the cavity, for example.  I could see using these to create a bit of a countersink, however.  Come to think of it, I do have one of these in 3/8" and 1/2" max diameters, so I guess I could see how it would work.

I use these type of bits, never had any issues

 

[rgand]

You use these on wood?  I use them on my aluminum and steel chassis when I'm amp buildin', but couldn't see how the steps would be of use without driving the entire bit through the body.  The steps on mine are much shorter than the depth of the wood over the cavity, for example.  I could see using these to create a bit of a countersink, however.  Come to think of it, I do have one of these in 3/8" and 1/2" max diameters, so I guess I could see how it would work.

I use those on just about everything where I need a clean hole. If you need an odd size that one of the steps would do, just get an inexpensive bit from Harbor Freight, grind off the larger steps and go ahead with it. Just don't overheat the bit when you grind on it.

 

[Cagey]

just get an inexpensive bit from Harbor Freight, grind off the larger steps and go ahead with it. Just don't overheat the bit when you grind on it.

In my experience, 'inexpensive' bits cost more than good ones because you end up buying multiples over time. Just buy a good definite-purpose bit to start with, and you're done with it.

Also, 'multi-purpose' bits (such as step drills) are always a compromise. They appeal to the frugal, but they're generally just gimmicky things to drain money from the inexperienced.

You're always better off to spend the money to buy the exact bit you need, and of a high-quality, and use that. Add it to your collection and call it that - a collection. This is especially pertinent to specialized bits like Forstners, brad points, router bits, etc. You often don't need every bit in a set. so why spend the big bucks there? For instance, if the bulk of your work is on guitars, you really only need 3 Forstners - 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Why buy a whole set? Buy just those three in carbide and you're all done forever. Buy 'em in HSS, and you'll be buying them again next year. To hell with that. It's false economy. Same with router bits. How many sizes to you really need? Spend the money to get the pertinent ones in carbide and call it a love story.

 

[rgand]

Also, 'multi-purpose' bits (such as step drills) are always a compromise. They appeal to the frugal, but they're generally just gimmicky things to drain money from the inexperienced.

When I was working on aircraft, they were the best thing for drilling lexan or aluminum.

 

[fdesalvo]

Also, 'multi-purpose' bits (such as step drills) are always a compromise. They appeal to the frugal, but they're generally just gimmicky things to drain money from the inexperienced.

When I was working on aircraft, they were the best thing for drilling lexan or aluminum.

They rock for aluminum

 

[BigSteve22]

They rock for aluminum

They certainly do. Not for customer deliverable product, but for a quick adjustment in an R&D environment, they can be worth their weight in gold.

Used them many times to pull an ME's butt out the fire.......

 

[fdesalvo]

Nothing worse than some smoking buns, my friend.

 

[BigSteve22]

And there's something to be said for the free lunch received in gratitude.