Leaderboard

Do I need a neckplate?

AgentPotato

Newbie
Messages
19
Hello, I need the combined wisdom of this board :)

I purchased a mahogany soloist with the 720 mod and a contoured heel. Do I need a nexkplate?
Some guitars (and especially basses) omit the neckplate and use some kind of ferules instead - is it likely to cause structural issues?

And if i can omit the neckplate - where do i find ferrules for a guitar?

Thank you in advance
 
You can get them from Stewmac amongst other places.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_parts/Electric_guitar:_Ferrules/Neck_Mounting_Ferrules.html

I have a couple of Ibanez guitars and a bass with them so I can't see why it would be a problem.

Of course you would have to drill the holes to the correct depth and ensure that the neck screws are still the right length as losing the neck plate will mean the screw will potentially go closer to the fingerboard which you want to avoid.
 
A neckplate is a load spreader. It balances out the tension the mounting screws exert, so it's a Good Thing. So, yes, you need a neckplate. Thankfully, they're not a big issue. If you have to pay more than $5 for one, you're shopping in the wrong place.

Of course, there are specialty plates that look nicer and cost more, and you can get customized ones to sorta privately dress the fiddle up a bit. For instance, DangerousR6 here on the board has a CNC machine that he uses to engrave personal plates.I get all mine from him. From him or others, figure about $40, but it's a signature mark on your guitar. That's worth a lot, in my opinion.

You can do the ferrule thing, but I'm not sure it's a great idea. It's different, but I doubt it's a good idea from a mechanical point of view. Too much force concentrated in too small an area.

Myself, I use a plate and install threaded inserts in the neck heel and attach it to the body with machine screws. Makes for the tightest joint possible, bar none.
 
I have pondered this myself on spreading the load, but it's only going to do so at the body side where the wood is quite thick even where the heel is contoured. Where the screws are in the neck the load is where it is in any case.

I definitely think machine screws and inserts are a great idea.

To neck plate or not to neck plate ?

On the Ibanez, it definitely contributes to the AANJ all access neck joint on a 24 fret guitar.  Anderson are doing some interesting stuff in this area with two bolts and an A joint.

But on a strat or tele especially without a contoured heel a neck plate isn't going to get in the way anymore than the heel is.
 
Thanks for your replies.

Well, I wanted to get rid of it because of aestethics, but it's not that big of a deal if it stays. I hardly feel it anyways when olaying in the upper register. Maybe I recess the neckplate on the same level as the wood, but I guess that leaves little to no wood around it, and,it might chip...

The anderson neckjoint is very sexy indeed - but i like the suhr one on the modern more (the round one)

Other than that I saw the no trussrod design from vigier, which is a very interesting concept - although judging by youtube clips (ya, i know..) I don't like the sound of them.

I hope I get the rest of the missing parts by next week and finaly can start to assambly the beast and release the kracken. Maybe I post pictures in the done section when I am ready

Greetings from snowy vienna

 
Over the years, I've seen a couple of guitars that had the body's heel rout split, apparently because the wood contracted with age. The holes were tight to the bolts, & the plate prevented the bolts from following along with the wood, & something finally gave. And I've seen another that got dropped, & the rectangle of wood between the four bolts tore out of the heel pocket, like 1/8" thick.

A plate is like the Model T's paint selection: "any color you want, so long as it's black." If you put a plate on, 99.99% of them offer you the "choice" of four holes & 2.0" by 2.5". If you're feeling especially radical, you could put on... wait for it... a black rubber gasket, just like the ZZ Top song!! Oh, wait... :glasses9:

Two holes drilled on about the same piece of wood grain is NOT structurally smart; two screws sunk into the same line, no smarter. Yet we go ahead & do it twice on most bolt-neck guitars. The three-point Fender is the smartest move made in this direction, but I figure it never caught on because (per common wisdom) three screws isn't as solid as four.

I build transit buses for a living. If you don't believe that four bolts is waaay more than enough, considering that total tension on a six-string guitar is less than 100 lbs, you really don't wanna know how many major bus components are held on with LESS hardware. :laughing7:

Now, if you're planning to whack the guitar against a brick wall on a regular basis, or throw it out the apartment window once in a while, then you might want to think about structural stability. Really, though, the tension on a "heavy-strung" electric is nothing compared to any acoustic guitar.

With ferrules, it's simple: you can put in a whole handful (or more) & drill holes just about wherever. If there's a questionable spot on the heel of an otherwise lovely neck, you can readily drill 1-2 mm away. No problem to taper the heel or pare it back (like a small version of what Stephen Davies did for the early Washburn Nuño guitars) or even sculpt it. My Martinson bass (five-string fretless) has five ferrules, which is overkill but looks good; my Austin-cloned StingRay four has only three, yet has incredible sustain & no noted stability problems.

At least as important is that the neck-to-body fit be as tight as possible. If that joint is stable, & you're not loading it up with a .012 or bigger set of strings, two bolts would probably suffice (through the outer edge of the pocket, naturally).

But if you reduce pocket thickness, then PLEASE don't forget to use shorter bolts!! It's just depressing to see two little steel points poking up at fret 19....

If structural stability is an issue, consider installing steel inserts into the neck. (Better still: pull the fretboard & put the inserts on the far side. It's totally daft overkill, but that's how us mechanics think. :icon_biggrin:)
 
Back
Top