Cutting a forearm contour & tummy cut
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FirebirdFloyd
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When I made the tummy cut on my "Blackbird", I used rasps to shape and remove most of the wood, and then sanded it smooth.
It was a good process, because you can stop and take the feel of it as you work, and not go overboard. The end result was near perfect too.
But that's just one way.
Cheers, Floyd
It was a good process, because you can stop and take the feel of it as you work, and not go overboard. The end result was near perfect too.
But that's just one way.
Cheers, Floyd
DangerousR6
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I would say that there are various types of power sanders that are available out there to choose from. I would mark the area to to be cut, remove the bulk of the material with the power sander, then go with some rasps as Floyd suggested to get as close as possible to the final shape. Then come back with some finish sanding to smooth it up... :dontknow:
I just carved my first guitar, a strat, with my CNC router that I built. The forearm and tummy contours took a long time to machine. 3 hours. But when they were done they were practically ready for paint. Pics soon.
The old fashioned way to do it is with a spoke shave
The old fashioned way to do it is with a spoke shave
I'm guessing one of these http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoke_shave. My grandfather who was an old school cabinet maker used to have a set of in his workshop. Its a very fine art, and unfortunately a skill which is very quickly being lost due to the use of belt sanders
Cagey
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Nexrex got it right, re: spoke shave. They were originally designed for shaving spokes into shape for use on wagon wheels to cut down on the weight without having much impact on the strength...
Also, they were used along with drawknives and chisels in making furniture and tool handles. They still get used for such things, and some luthiers use them to shape necks for stringed instruments, but it's a dying art. Very labor intensive and time consuming.
Also, they were used along with drawknives and chisels in making furniture and tool handles. They still get used for such things, and some luthiers use them to shape necks for stringed instruments, but it's a dying art. Very labor intensive and time consuming.
Jusatele
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well you have to admit with CNC milling and getting the exact same product each time that the need for such a tool is only for those who want handmade. I really used to feel hand made was better, but I think that Fender is turning out the best quality instruments they ever have since going over to CNC. My 2003 strat is heads and heals over any classic one I ever owned.
Cagey
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The repeatability is the thing. A lot of people, especially here in the Detroit area, were under the impression the automotives (amongst others) were using robots to reduce manning so as to break the grip the unions had, but that was never true. Robots cost a helluva lot more than humans do, no matter how you look at them or what time frame you use. But, they're highly repeatable, which humans almost never are. It was a quality control move, and one even management fought because of the cost. In some cases, it was also for safety reasons. Robot end effectors are easily replaced, while human fingers/hands/arms aren't.
I agree on the Fender quality issue. I have an '80(?) Strat that the neck pocket wasn't cut well at all. The neck pocket is 1/16-1/8" bigger than the neck is. It has an odd brass tremolo and brass knobs but chrome tuners, but my dad insists that he bought it new that way. I haven't done much looking bue I haven't seen any show up on ebay.
Cagey
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shanejw said:
He may have bought it that way, but it's unlikely Fender sourced it that way.
It should be noted, though, that Fender and Gibson both have changed manufacturing facilities and countries of origin numerous times over the years, with varying degrees of success and/or quality before, during and after each change. There are entire books written on the subject, and tons of legend and lore available over the 'net on the subject. Needless to say, they've both made some serious mistakes along the way. Still, I have a hard time believing that Fender would ship a unit that grossly mismatched. But, maybe I'm giving them too much credit. I've seen some horribly sloppy work out of those two over the years, and it's nearly criminal given what they charge for their stuff.
Jusatele
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Cagey
I agree hole hearted, but must say CNC has brought a step that is beyond what labor was 15 years ago, we now can turn out parts that are exact copies no mater what country they are in. the problem we have now is cost of assembly. I love the American Standard Fender line, and find the necks and bodies of the MIM is almost the exact same thing, it is the hardware and pickups that are cheaper. I find fenders current MIM a nice playing axe that needs new pickups, hardware, and pots.
I agree hole hearted, but must say CNC has brought a step that is beyond what labor was 15 years ago, we now can turn out parts that are exact copies no mater what country they are in. the problem we have now is cost of assembly. I love the American Standard Fender line, and find the necks and bodies of the MIM is almost the exact same thing, it is the hardware and pickups that are cheaper. I find fenders current MIM a nice playing axe that needs new pickups, hardware, and pots.
I've had that strat for years but never really looked up any info on it. I found this page this morning and its pretty interesting. Turns out Dad isn't a liar as the very early production models didn't feature the gold tuners. Huh. Who knew?
http://www.stratcollector.com/newsdesk/archives/000273.html
http://www.stratcollector.com/newsdesk/archives/000273.html
SkuttleFunk
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I used to use the more traditional 'carving' method of rasps, files, spokeshave, and then finish it off with sand paper. it took about 60 - 90 minutes to get ready for the sandpaper. I now utilize a Lancelot disk in my electric angle grinder as the first roughing step, and can be ready to finish off with sandpaper in about 20 minutes (yes, you see correctly ... that is a chainsaw blade made to fit a 4" angle grinder)
I don't recommend this tool to those who have issues handling a screwdriver or hand drill (you know who you are - you're the one who has a cork on the end of your fork) ... BUT ... if you are skilled with hand tools and also take care for working safely, this can be a great addition to your shop arsenal. I've had mine for several years now, and about it when both the disk and angle grinder were on sale at Harbor Freight. I believe my total investment was right around $50US
all the best,
R
I don't recommend this tool to those who have issues handling a screwdriver or hand drill (you know who you are - you're the one who has a cork on the end of your fork) ... BUT ... if you are skilled with hand tools and also take care for working safely, this can be a great addition to your shop arsenal. I've had mine for several years now, and about it when both the disk and angle grinder were on sale at Harbor Freight. I believe my total investment was right around $50US
all the best,
R
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