Custom made contoured heel

[Hooligan]

I'm going to order a soloist body and kws neck, and I'd like to have a contoured heel like in this old Lag Rockline.



My plan is to order both body and neck with no mounting holes, and let local guitar builder do the contoured heel.

Do you guys see any reasons why I shouldn't do this? Is it possible that upper left screw hits the truss rod? Anything else I haven't notice? Neck plate modification is no problem, I can do that by myself.

I'm doing this because I have small hands and I play a lot in upper frets. I have a Warmoth Les Paul with contoured heel, but that Lag Rockline suits much better for my hands.

 

[baskruit]

Since you're getting a custom job on this, just have it done in a way that it doesn't hit the truss rod. It's as simple as that.

 

[SkuttleFunk]

I'd suggest foregoing the neck plate and utilizing neck mounting ferrules instead. if you modify an existing neck plate, I suspect you're going to have issues with the original hole countersink - it doesn't looke like you'll totally miss the factory installed hole, and find yourself needing to fabricate one from rough materials

here's how the neck mounting ferrules look (and note that due to the contour, you may need to individually adjust the screw length for each hole)

you contour is different than this one, but outside of that the ferrule application remains the same

all the best,

R

 

[Hooligan]

Thanks guys. I'll let the professional decide if he wants to use a neck plate or ferrules 

 

[DangerousR6]

:icon_biggrin:

 

[Kostas]

Looks great Doug. I wish Warmoth had this contour heel as default.

 

[Hooligan]

OK, now it's done. Here's pics:



I'm very happy with the result The modification was made by Lottonen Guitars here in Helsinki Finland: http://www.lottonen.com/uk/index.html

 

[MedianMusic1]

That looks great!

 

[Watershed]

That came out real nice!

I had a guy ask me to do that to an older Robin Medley.
I used a Dremel with a router attachment, and did it free hand.
Sandpaper got the final curve.

I like that extra chunk taken off of the side of the heel.

James

 

[Death by Uberschall]

Hope that screw doesn't hit the truss rod.  :sad:

I do like the scallop on the lower horn. I wish Warmoth would do that, but they won't, I asked already.

 

[big bob]

 

[whitebison66]

I'm thinking of doing something similar on an upcoming project, but I am still trying to think through the method for finishing the curve. I wish someone would put up a photo tutorial (or a link). I just can't figure out how to get the transition smooth and round and neat-looking. I'm not good at free-handing.

 

[Hooligan]

Hope that screw doesn't hit the truss rod.

I was worrying about that too, but this Lottonen guy knows his business. He drilled the holes to the neck too, and the screw don't hit the truss rod

 

[frown]

I've never quite figured out why Warmoth don't put the index hole on the far side of the neck to where your hand would access.

If you plan on contouring the heel like I do with a pending Tele build and not having holes predriled, it makes sense to have the index hole on the opposite site to the corner being contoured surely?

This way you won't have an [ugly] filler peg showing if you have a natural finish like I planned for originally...

I'm aware that the index hole is crucial for lining things up for body routs etc, but thought ti would be wiser move to relocate it in case of customer modifications.

 

[stubhead]

I'd been seeing these thing more and more and when I was fondling Walnutta it ocurred to me I could take out at least one corner with just a little Zona saw:





My tools mostly consist of like a hammer and a coathanger and a plastic pterodactyl (for spiritual guidance) so I didn't get too ambitious, but it's pretty easy to see another line through there that would "take out" three of the four screws. And that's even without MOVING the left top one. I won't buy necks with the side-adjust, so that's a non-issue for me.

Even though I'm 55 myself, I can't help but wonder if a lot of this

VINTAGE!

VINTAGE!!

!!!VINTAGE!!!

foolishness is a result of all these companies being OWNED by people 50 - 75 years old and trying to cram antiquated ideas down kids' throats ("Well it was good enough for ol' Gramps here!") in order to try to retain some sort of control and a vague memory of when testosterone still mattered.... in short, business as usual and a bunch of B.S.; "60 is the new 40"; what's a little war now and then among ol' friends 'cause there are too many damn kids, etc.

THE POINT: "we" know darn well that straight string pull, contoured heels, 24 frets and threaded inserts are BETTER - not just "choices", but BETTER - but you can't have any till you've suffered the way we've suffered, why you little snotnose did I ever tell you abou... abooo... hmm. Where was I? :icon_scratch:

 

[Cagey]

I've never quite figured out why Warmoth don't put the index hole on the far side of the neck to where your hand would access.

I'm not sure what your concern is. They put the index hole in a place where the body is always going to get routed out. Namely, at a place where a pickup is almost certainly going to go. The only time I've ever seen it be an issue is when somebody decided to build something with only piezo bridge saddle pickups and no traditional magnetic sensors. See here...

You're right - if you wanted to leave that area clear, you'd have an unsightly filler plug. But, that happens so rarely it's not even worth talking about.

I'm sure they could use a neck mounting hole as an index as well, but I'm guessing there's some tolerance stack-up that makes it impractical. Too much leverage? I don't know. I haven't done CNC work in quite some time.

 

[frown]

I was talking about the neck index hole for the bolts, as per the image on Warmoth's site, the page it's show on in the builder calls it an index hole - although it doesn't on the image so that may be the reason for any ambiguity:

http://www.warmoth.com/images/Guitar/Bodies/Builder/Popups/StandardStratocaster/MountingHoles/IndexHoleOnly.jpg[img]

http://www.warmoth.com/images/Guitar/Bodies/Builder/Popups/StandardStratocaster/MountingHoles/IndexHoleOnly.jpg

I agree though it's a fussy change for Warmoth to even contemplate to to keep us modders happy, but it was a passing thought that something could be improved for the ultimate satisfaction and quality of finish.

Of course a solid body finish on top would hide any filler peg showing, but I love wood and its natural grain...

I think I'm gonna figure out a way of using the standard 4 bolt holes and then recessed ferrules with the Warmoth Pro neck. Need to find the clearance of the holes from the body edge so I can determine the size of ferrules I can use...

Some great approaches to contouring neck heels here though!  :icon_thumright:

 

[Cagey]

What kind of body are you looking at? I have a lot of examples of Warmoth work around here that I can measure if you need reliable numbers.

 

[frown]

Hi Cagey,

That would be great if you could!  :icon_thumright:

I'm looking at a replacement telecaster - solid body. I'm looking at the forearm / belly contour as was considering the neck heel contour with neck ferules.

Going to be mated to a Warhead Warmoth Pro neck so it will have the side adjust, which is one thing I'm trying to establish if I can move the screw holes closer together to allow for more room or indeed if the standard 4 bolt holes are within a tolerable distance from the edge so as not to ruin a nice finish.

I also plan to use stainless steel screw inserts in the neck with 4 stainless bolts too...

Any help on any aspect would be greatly appreciated!

Mockup pic of original koa wood, now considering Pau Ferro neck body with Ebony board [if Warmoth will do a solid Pau Ferro body]:

 

[Cagey]

Here are a couple shots of a contoured heel on a Tele with some countersink washers and stainless machine screws...

The center of the nearest hole is 5/16" in from the side and 3/8" down from the top. The screws are 8-32, and the washers are 17/32" dia.

I'm sure Warmoth will do a solid Pau Ferro body if you ask nicely, but it'll probably cost a mint. Better to just get a top.