countering neck heaviness
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bpmorton777
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CB is a cobbler by trade :icon_jokercolor:
Brian
Brian
I have been curious about this "balance topic" because I have been looking at very light weight Strat bodies and solid rosewood Strat necks. I noticed that Warmoth does not disclose the weight of the necks, only the bodies. Am I over thinking this for a Strat? I prefer a very balanced instrument. Is there a basic guideline of thought for this, I don't want to do algebra over it if it can be avoided.
It's not a prob with any strat I've ever seen. It's more an issue when the neck strap button is around the 15th or higher fret - like an SG for instance or maybe a tele, but my tele is 3.5 lb body, rosewood neck, and heavy tuners, and it's just fine for me.
Strats have that long upper horn, and usually a big hunk of metal as the bridge block. It might be an issue if your body is very light, you use a lightweight non-trem bridge, and have a heavy exotic neck and heavy tuners - like all-ebony with PW brand tuners. Also, the vintage modern necks are noticable lighter than the warmoth pro construction necks. I think if you get a big steel trem block like callaham sells, and lighter tuners, you wouldn't possibly have any problems.
Strats have that long upper horn, and usually a big hunk of metal as the bridge block. It might be an issue if your body is very light, you use a lightweight non-trem bridge, and have a heavy exotic neck and heavy tuners - like all-ebony with PW brand tuners. Also, the vintage modern necks are noticable lighter than the warmoth pro construction necks. I think if you get a big steel trem block like callaham sells, and lighter tuners, you wouldn't possibly have any problems.
>It's more an issue when the neck strap button is around the 15th or higher fret -
actually somebody on the telecaster forum suggested that the rear strap pin be moved up by two inches. the argument is that then the balance of gravity shifts and so you get better balance.
actually somebody on the telecaster forum suggested that the rear strap pin be moved up by two inches. the argument is that then the balance of gravity shifts and so you get better balance.
rockskate4x
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the two inch strap pin difference really works. I did it on my SG which has much worse balance than any solid tele that I've played, but it is much better now. Not perfect, mind you. I still moved the other button to the upper horn, and I'm looking for weights to shove into the control cavity but strap placement does wonders.
i finally discovered what the issue was. the problem was not neck heaviness.
but the fact that i tend to strap a guitar on with the neck tilted way high - like between 1 and 2 "O" clock - this works well with a strat and a jazzmaster.
but the shorter body of the tele when strapped on tends settle somewhere between 2 and 3 "O" clock. it doesn't have the extra body length at the upper horn to balance the tilt.
but strangely i don't have this problem with my les paul - which too has a shorter body than a strat or a jm.
so even if it isn't neck heavy maybe extra body weight might help in maintaining the tilt. "taipan" ferrule block, here i come!
but the fact that i tend to strap a guitar on with the neck tilted way high - like between 1 and 2 "O" clock - this works well with a strat and a jazzmaster.
but the shorter body of the tele when strapped on tends settle somewhere between 2 and 3 "O" clock. it doesn't have the extra body length at the upper horn to balance the tilt.
but strangely i don't have this problem with my les paul - which too has a shorter body than a strat or a jm.
so even if it isn't neck heavy maybe extra body weight might help in maintaining the tilt. "taipan" ferrule block, here i come!
