Cherry wood finishing

DangerousR6

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Anyone ever done a finish on cherry before, I'm getting a cherry hollow thinline, with a bookmatched cherry lam top. I've read some articles about finishing cherry, but still not sure.  I don't really want to add any color to it as they say cherry will darken over time, but it has some nice figure in the top that I'd like to bring out...... :dontknow:
e0a2_3.JPG
 

-CB-

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Any clear finish will bring out the grain.  There "may" be some very light stains that can be applied to enhance things... but I think I'd leave well enough alone on that great top.  Your choice oil or hard finish... I'd choose gloss lacquer m'self... but to each his own... as I can also see pure Tung oil on that wood.
 

DangerousR6

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-CB- said:
Any clear finish will bring out the grain.  There "may" be some very light stains that can be applied to enhance things... but I think I'd leave well enough alone on that great top.  Your choice oil or hard finish... I'd choose gloss lacquer m'self... but to each his own... as I can also see pure Tung oil on that wood.
I read thatyou have quite a few choices to get the "oiled" look and effect on cherry; you can use tung oil, linseed oil, an oil-base clear stain like Minwax "Natural," danish oils, antique oils, and varnishes including polyurethane. The only differences that's apparent with any of these oil-base products is the drying time and to some degree the coloring. I thought maybe trying some type of oil with a clear satin, I'm not into shinny and glossy anymore.
 

-CB-

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Read here
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1308.0

The Birchwood Casey  stuff is a varnish.  So is the Homer Formby stuff, and most of whats out there "mass marketed".

Real... pure... and petroleum product free Tung Oil is great stuff.  It goes on smooth, smells great.  It does take a little while to dry.  First coat should be thinned with turpentine or citrus solvent.  Do a search on "pure tung oil" in Google, see the "milk paint" website for oil, and solvent.

Also.... If you thin pure tung oil about 1 part to 3 parts citrus solvent... it makes a really nice fretboard conditioner (not maple, but rosewood and other bare wood fretboards).

 

DangerousR6

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-CB- said:
Read here
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1308.0

The Birchwood Casey  stuff is a varnish.  So is the Homer Formby stuff, and most of whats out there "mass marketed".

Real... pure... and petroleum product free Tung Oil is great stuff.  It goes on smooth, smells great.  It does take a little while to dry.  First coat should be thinned with turpentine or citrus solvent.  Do a search on "pure tung oil" in Google, see the "milk paint" website for oil, and solvent.

Also.... If you thin pure tung oil about 1 part to 3 parts citrus solvent... it makes a really nice fretboard conditioner (not maple, but rosewood and other bare wood fretboards).
Cool stuff -CB-, I likey alot. Might do the back in Dark tung oil, and the top in pure tung oil..... :icon_thumright:
Dark tung oil on cherry
Cherry-DarkTung.jpg


pue tung oil on cherry
Cherry-PureTung.jpg


Can I cover that with a satin laquer after the tung oil dries?
 

DangerousR6

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Mahogany looks bitchin too with the dark tung oil, may do my neck in the dark too........ :headbang:
Mahogany-DarkTung.jpg
 

-CB-

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You wouldn't want to do that.  You'd want to just use satin lacquer and thats it.  Go oil, go lacquer, but not both
 

DangerousR6

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-CB- said:
You wouldn't want to do that.  You'd want to just use satin lacquer and thats it.  Go oil, go lacquer, but not both
Which in your opinion would look best?
 

DangerousR6

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-CB- said:
Sorry, you have to make that decision for yourself....    :glasses10:
Well then let me pick your brain some more. Since the whole body is made of cherry, but the top is a seperate lam top. What if I wanted to darken up the back just a tad, not too much and leave the top natural and spray it with a satin laquer. Could I maybe use Danish oil on the back, then laquer it up......? :dontknow:
 

-CB-

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I'd not do that.

Its all gonna darken anyway...  unless you want to specifically stain it...  just go with either oil, or lacquer, or poly... but dont mix n match.
 

DangerousR6

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-CB- said:
I'd not do that.

Its all gonna darken anyway...  unless you want to specifically stain it...  just go with either oil, or lacquer, or poly... but dont mix n match.
Ok got it, so no oil laquer mix at all. But curiously I have read on this forum of others recomending (not to me personally) a danish oil and nitro?
 
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