Chambered Tele body question

[Guitarsan]

Hi all, first post here, and first project guitar, woohoo!

See my avatar for the body I just ordered... it's chambered like this:

So I see where Warmoth has accounted for the strap button at the base of the guitar, but it's unclear to me how to know where to position the strap button (and more importantly, screw) on the upper bout? Sure looks like the screw could breach one of the chambers, but hard to tell. Does Warmoth provide guidance on this, or do any of you know?

Thanks!

 

[Cagey]

I've never seen any guidance from Warmoth, but I've probably had a dozen or more of those Teles come through here, not counting the ones I have myself, and have never had a problem with the strap button hole.

 

[stratamania]

I discussed this very topic a while back here.

http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22445.msg336623#msg336623

I just felt the tip of the drill meet less resistance. Having said that the things are still solid a couple of years later.

 

[Glimmer]

I read that thread, stratamania, and it got me thinking about my own chamber body (a JM). It's still in its box as I wait for other parts to come it, but I am wondering how I might avoid hitting a chamber as I mount the strap lugs. I might go with the dual design lugs you chose.

Has anyone ever gotten / posted info from Warmoth on this?

 

[Great Ape]

If you've got a chambered body, chances are you WILL hit a 'chamber' when installing the strap button in front. I've put MANY of those on, and felt the screw pop into the chamber, and NEVER has
there been a problem with it. Don't worry about it, build away!

 

[Guitarsan]

I discussed this very topic a while back here.

http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22445.msg336623#msg336623

I just felt the tip of the drill meet less resistance. Having said that the things are still solid a couple of years later.

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. Can't believe no one has asked this before. So again, it looks like they shortened the chamber to add some wood for the screw at the bottom of the guitar, which is great. But the question is, did they do the same on the upper bout?

I guess I'll have to see if they have a photo of the entire chambered half, or best case dimensions.

 

[Guitarsan]

If you've got a chambered body, chances are you WILL hit a 'chamber' when installing the strap button in front. I've put MANY of those on, and felt the screw pop into the chamber, and NEVER has
there been a problem with it. Don't worry about it, build away!

Well, doesn't have to be that way Warmoth, if you're listening, you did half the job.  :icon_tongue:

OK, I won't sweat it. As a first time builder (but been playing guitar for decades, and have done things like replace all the electronics in a Gibson ES339 by myself), is there something I should be "worried about" with this process? Something that might surprise me if not careful?

 

[Great Ape]

In a word--no...

 

[Guitarsan]

Alright, let the building commence.... shortly. Starting with these....

 

[fdesalvo]

Nice selection!

To mirror what others have said, the entire length of the screw doesn't need to be supported by wood to create a very stable strap button location.  Just place them into the traditional locations and move on with the build.

 

[mayfly]

I concur - nice parts!

and yes, don't worry too much about the strap pin location.  I'd make sure I was not using too big a drill, but I would not be sweating anything else.

Now - if I were putting a bender in one of these, then I'd be a bit worried! 

 

[stratamania]

I think as long as you are using normal fitting strap buttons or the Dunlop dual designs you will be fine.

If you were going to do the flush mount Dunlops I would be cautious but that's a whole different game.

 

[Tonar8352]

Nice burst by the fine people at Warmoth! That should be a great looking guitar.

 

[Guitarsan]

Thanks for the advice and complements on selection everyone, I'm excited! The neck has "bonus flame" all down the back.

I've made decisions on hardware, pickups, wiring, etc. but still in process of buying all the parts. It's going to be a mix of traditional and more modern look and functionality, because otherwise why bother to build my own?  :laughing7: Anyway, that's my strategy this time around.

Will post a thread when finished!  :headbang:

 

[Guitarsan]

Still accumulating my components (second pickup arrives next week) but in the meantime I just love the playing view of this neck.  :toothy10:

This is "bonus" flame, it didn't cost a thing. Really can't capture the 3D nature of this, but it's deep.....

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I treat such pre-drilled screw holes with crazy glue, then once it's cured, I add a drop of wood glue to the strap button screw.
Makes for a stronger wall that is less prone to any stripping, the wood glue just keeps it from loosening on its own like some straps can.

I use straplocks on everything, and one of my guitars has had the same install for 19+ years with this method, has never moved.

 

[rgand]

That's a very good way to mount those straplock screws, Tony. I'll start doing that next time I put one in. Thanks for the tip.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

That's a very good way to mount those straplock screws, Tony. I'll start doing that next time I put one in. Thanks for the tip.

My pleasure.

Just for clarity, I don't do that to every single pre-drilled hole, just ones where some sense of tensile strength is involved, like bridge studs, strap buttons, and sometimes neck mounting holes in the neck. 

 

[rgand]

That's a very good way to mount those straplock screws, Tony. I'll start doing that next time I put one in. Thanks for the tip.

My pleasure.

Just for clarity, I don't do that to every single pre-drilled hole, just ones where some sense of tensile strength is involved, like bridge studs, strap buttons, and sometimes neck mounting holes in the neck.

Thanks. I'll make note of that. Sounds like a good idea. I've had strap buttons loosen many times and this sounds like the ideal solution.

 

[Guitarsan]

Dry fitting... getting there!