Can I use Tru Oil or Target Coatings water based lacquer over Dupli-Color?

waygorked

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I am trying to pull off a Pelham Blue finish on my Mooncaster body. I have developed a nitro allergy, and don't want to go anywhere near the stuff. I found a Dupli-Color that looks to be a decent color coat. Assuming a long drying time, would I be able to get away with Tru Oil or a water based lacquer on top?

And if not, any suggestions on what to use for a Pelham Blue color coat that would work under one of those clear coat finishes?
 
waygorked said:
I am trying to pull off a Pelham Blue finish on my Mooncaster body. I have developed a nitro allergy, and don't want to go anywhere near the stuff. I found a Dupli-Color that looks to be a decent color coat. Assuming a long drying time, would I be able to get away with Tru Oil or a water based lacquer on top?

And if not, any suggestions on what to use for a Pelham Blue color coat that would work under one of those clear coat finishes?


I doubt it.  Why not use the duplicol or clear??
 
Is your allergy to nitrocellulose itself, or to the chemicals that comprise the vehicle for the coating?  If the latter, I'm not sure the Duplicolor will solve your problem, either.  If you've already applied the Duplicolor, I can see how you'd want to at least preserve that much of the work you've done.  This might be an occasion to job it out to a pro with all the appropriate gear to shoot precat urethane or whatever.
 
Duplicolor is a brand name, not a coating type, so it's impossible to say. But, generally speaking, you don't put oil-based finishes over any other finish. It's for raw wood. Lacquers can go over other finish types if you use a barrier coat, but you're adding work and material.

In any event, if you don't have a problem with water-based lacquer, why not do the whole thing with that? Be easier overall. Easy to shoot, easy to finish out, fairly robust finish - what's not to love?
 
I've had good results with rustoleum spray lacquer over the duplicolor. Be careful with the duplicolor though. Those cans spit and spatter something aweful. You can't even get through one pass. If someone has a secret I'd love to hear it. I love that light blue.
 
Good point, Cagey - I was thinking of the rattle can Duplicolor product you can get at US auto parts stores - lots of colors keyed to manufacturers' specs.  That's all acrylic lacquer, I believe, and as such also floats in a acetone-and-other-high-VOC-cocktail.  But there are other Duplicolor products, to be sure.
 
Cagey...what barrier? 

I have sprayed nitro over Duplicolor before with no issues.  Am I missing something?

Another option is poly.  My so just did his EVH frankenstat with Duplicolor and I sprayed some minwax poly on it just to give it some more shine and protection.  No reaction at all.  I just scuffed the paint with some 320 before spraying.
 
If you want to change finish chemistries, you generally need some sort of barrier between them so they don't inter-react. Often, this is shellac, or some sort of definite-purpose primer/sealer. If you've sprayed lacquer over Duplicolor without issue, it was probably Duplicolor lacquer at the base.

As I mentioned earlier, Duplicolor is a brand name, not a coating type, so you can't make blanket judgements on finish compatibilities. Even Duplicolor coatings will react with each other if they're incompatible. Also, compatibility problems don't always show up immediately or catastrophically. In other words, it may look fine and didn't bubble/break/wrinkle, but you may find several months down the road that the last coating is peeling off in sheets.
 
Cagey said:
If you want to change finish chemistries, you generally need some sort of barrier between them so they don't inter-react. Often, this is shellac, or some sort of definite-purpose primer/sealer. If you've sprayed lacquer over Duplicolor without issue, it was probably Duplicolor lacquer at the base.

As I mentioned earlier, Duplicolor is a brand name, not a coating type, so you can't make blanket judgements on finish compatibilities. Even Duplicolor coatings will react with each other if they're incompatible. Also, compatibility problems don't always show up immediately or catastrophically. In other words, it may look fine and didn't bubble/break/wrinkle, but you may find several months down the road that the last coating is peeling off in sheets.

I used the automotive stuff...which is lacquer based I think.  Either way I have used both poly and nitro lacquer over them with no issues.  Fingers crossed.
 
pabloman said:
You should be fine. I've done the same. I just can't get the cans to spray right.

I always have a lint free rag with some thinner to wipe off the spray nozzle.  This stops splatter. :icon_thumright:
 
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