You forgot the sanding sealer...
Body
1.) First, you have to fill the grain; I usually use the water based filler, but the oil based shouldn't be a lot different although I don't know about drying times on it. Apply the filler as evenly as possible, after each application use an old credit card or similar piece of hard plastic hto scape all the excess not in the grain. After letting it thoroughly dry, sand back level with #220. Expect to do several fills before you get it level/even. Once you think it is, sand to #320.
2.) Shoot at least a couple of coats of nitro sanding sealer. Although it may have seemed level, after you let the first cost of sanding sealer dry/cure, you will probably find some spots that aren't even/smooth. Just use some more filler on those, then more sanding sealer. Sand the final coat of sanding sealer back to #320.
3.) Once completely filled/sealed/leveled, you're ready to shoot the butterscotch blonde; apply extremely light coats and build them up till you get the proper effect. When shooting any form of toner, apply extremely light coats so as not to get runs or build up opaquecity. (SP?)
4.) Now you're ready for the nitro top coats. Again, shoot extremely thin coats and biuld them up. Some people like to shoot a few coats and level sand, I personally shoot at least 10-12 coats before level/wet sanding. If you have any issues with the finish at this point you can always shoot more coats and fix as the nitro will melt into the coats already applied.
Neck
1.) Shoot the Fender Neck Amber EXTREMELY thin. it will get darker with each application, but does NOT like to be shot heavily at all.
2.) Once you're gotten the proper amount of tint from the amber, shoot it with sanding sealer. It is imperative that you shoot these coats EXTREMELY thin and buikd them up, as nitro sealer will "melt" the amber and you can wind up with pseudo-runs that get darker than the rest of the neck from melting the amber tint and pooling it. Once this step is done, sand back to #32o carefully.
3.) Same deal as the sealer, you can still melt the underlying coats and fudge up the uniformity of the tint if you shoot too heavy, EXTREMELY light coats and build it up.
4.) Always hand sand for final wet sand/leveling, the contours of a neck don't lend themselves to palm sanders without sanding through the finish at edges.
When done with the above steps for body/neck do final polish/buffing.
As it sounds like you haven't tried this at home before, buy some pieces of ash and maple and practice your spraying techniques while you're waiting on all those filler coats to dry, you;ll be glad you did. Every step takes longer to completely dry than you think.
