Would you be able to glue in a warmoth neck? I mostly play lead stuff, and when I want to use the higher frets there's nothing worse for me than bumping into a big ol' wooden rectangle. I like guitars where the neck "fades" into the body, and I was wondering if there's a way to accomplish this with a warmoth. I know I'd have to cut away at the back of the body, but this would be a build made from a body blank anyway. I do currently have access to woodworking tools.
Building a set neck guitar
- Thread starter Name
- Start date
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
Trying to glue in a bolt-on neck would almost certainly end in disappointment. You'd only have a relatively small (2" x 3") lap joint at the end of a 2' lever (neck) with over 100 lbs of pull on it, whose weakness is only exceeded by butt joints. If you look at any neck/body glue-up construction in a guitar/bass application, you'll see it's always a mortise & tenon or dovetail joint to give it mechanical/structural strength and a large contact area, with the glue just acting as the fastener in place of screws/bolts.
In any event, there have been a couple/few studies done in the fairly recent times that show the bolt-on joint to be superior to the glue-up as far as sustain and articulation in guitars. The studies weren't quite as robust as one might hope for if you wanted to present a "once and for all" case, but there were sensors and hi-tech instrumentation involved and they all agreed with one another, so the evidence is reasonably good. But, they also ignored some other variables in guitar design that would have a profound effect on the results, like heel shape/length, neck profile, scale length, and contact area.
Oddly enough, those same studies found the neck-through construction to be the worst, which to me is counter-intuitive, but I didn't design or conduct the tests. I have a Les Paul-style guitar here with a neck-thru design that has tons of sustain and gives you the access to the upper frets that's tough to get with the traditional design of that instrument, so I'm a little skeptical of the claims that a neck-thru isn't the best idea.
This one isn't mine, but it's the same construction...
It's a Festivus miracle! A Les Paul with no risk of carpal tunnel syndrome! :laughing7:
In any event, there have been a couple/few studies done in the fairly recent times that show the bolt-on joint to be superior to the glue-up as far as sustain and articulation in guitars. The studies weren't quite as robust as one might hope for if you wanted to present a "once and for all" case, but there were sensors and hi-tech instrumentation involved and they all agreed with one another, so the evidence is reasonably good. But, they also ignored some other variables in guitar design that would have a profound effect on the results, like heel shape/length, neck profile, scale length, and contact area.
Oddly enough, those same studies found the neck-through construction to be the worst, which to me is counter-intuitive, but I didn't design or conduct the tests. I have a Les Paul-style guitar here with a neck-thru design that has tons of sustain and gives you the access to the upper frets that's tough to get with the traditional design of that instrument, so I'm a little skeptical of the claims that a neck-thru isn't the best idea.
This one isn't mine, but it's the same construction...
It's a Festivus miracle! A Les Paul with no risk of carpal tunnel syndrome! :laughing7:
amigarobbo
Hero Member
- Messages
- 960
I don't know about the effect on the sustain, but neck throughs do feel and look more upmarket.
dmraco
Master Member
- Messages
- 4,655
Cagey said:Trying to glue in a bolt-on neck would almost certainly end in disappointment. You'd only have a relatively small (2" x 3") lap joint at the end of a 2' lever (neck) with over 100 lbs of pull on it, whose weakness is only exceeded by butt joints. If you look at any neck/body glue-up construction in a guitar/bass application, you'll see it's always a mortise & tenon or dovetail joint to give it mechanical/structural strength and a large contact area, with the glue just acting as the fastener in place of screws/bolts.
In any event, there have been a couple/few studies done in the fairly recent times that show the bolt-on joint to be superior to the glue-up as far as sustain and articulation in guitars. The studies weren't quite as robust as one might hope for if you wanted to present a "once and for all" case, but there were sensors and hi-tech instrumentation involved and they all agreed with one another, so the evidence is reasonably good. But, they also ignored some other variables in guitar design that would have a profound effect on the results, like heel shape/length, neck profile, scale length, and contact area.
Oddly enough, those same studies found the neck-through construction to be the worst, which to me is counter-intuitive, but I didn't design or conduct the tests. I have a Les Paul-style guitar here with a neck-thru design that has tons of sustain and gives you the access to the upper frets that's tough to get with the traditional design of that instrument, so I'm a little skeptical of the claims that a neck-thru isn't the best idea.
This one isn't mine, but it's the same construction...
It's a Festivus miracle! A Les Paul with no risk of carpal tunnel syndrome! :laughing7:
I have been GASSING for an Agile neck through....
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
There's several kit guitars you could try, like Precision guitar kits or Pit Bull guitar kits. But as Cagey said, trying yo glue a bolt on neck and body isn't a good idea...
Similar threads
