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Buffing the orange peel

Mandalie

Junior Member
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It's probably not called orange peel when using tru oil but will buffing it bell get rid of the tiny bumps? I want a really smooth finish with tru oil. Should I wet sand? I don't really know how to do that so I'll have to tea into it...
 
You should not really have tiny bumps in Truoil. Is there dust in the finish or some other decontaminant?

Truoil is best applied in light coats if it is put on too thick you may end up with odd results.

Get some 400 grit and lightly sand to see if it helps.

Can you post pics and provide a breakdown of how you approached this so far?

That way we might know what the issue is. We are in the dark otherwise no matter how many posts are made asking the same thing.

 
If there any bumps sand it off and start over .  Besides a light scuffing between coats , wipe off the dust with a lint free rag dampened with naphtha before applying the next coat
I never wet sand but some people do.  Up to you to experiment.
 
"Orange peel" is a typical result from spraying, and you can't buff it out. Has to be sanded level. But, you shouldn't be spraying Tru-Oil - it's a wipe-on finish, and should be applied very thinly. If you have tangible defects in the surface, they were there to start with or your applicator is shedding. Need to clean the body thoroughly and use something lint-free. If you still get defects, sand 'em out, and figure out where they're coming from so you can prevent their recurrence.
 
It may be that the Tru Oil has been 'overworked' - don't keep rubbing at it too long - or you've tried to put more on as the previous layer is just starting to dry, so you're lifting it and rolling it into those tiny lumps.
 
@Cagey, Tru-oil can be obtained as a spray on but it is normally only used for a final finishing coat after numerous wipe on coats.
 
The bumps are from my finger print. I spread light coats on with my finger. If I posted a picture you wouldn't be able to see it because it's pretty fine
 
I have nothing to add, but the thread title sounds like a euphemism of some sort.
 
Well, now that you mention it...

cannot_be_unseen.jpg
 
swarfrat said:
I have nothing to add, but the thread title sounds like a euphemism of some sort.

"What'cha been doin' all day, Jed?"
"You know...  Just Buffin' the Orange Peel..."

 
Fat Pete said:
It may be that the Tru Oil has been 'overworked' - don't keep rubbing at it too long - or you've tried to put more on as the previous layer is just starting to dry, so you're lifting it and rolling it into those tiny lumps.

This a good post, and great advice!  :icon_thumright:

I'm doing a maple neck (pau ferro fretboard, which needs no finish......) that will sometimes get little "pits" in the finish. I *think* they might be coming from when I lift my finger off, and it puts "bubbles" in the finish? I figured out on my maple neck that I need to work the stuff less than I did when I coated my alder body. Just put a few tiny drops on there, spread them with my finger, and let it dry. If I missed an area, I'll get it on the next coat. Between coats, after letting it dry AT LEAST 12 hrs. overnight, I seem to get a better next coat if I hit it lightly with 400 grit rather than my gray extra fine ScotchBrite. This process seems to be working out for this neck.......  :dontknow:
 
So can someone tell me if buffing will get out the streaks? I'm having a hard time getting a perfect finish. Also how many coats of tru oil do you use for covering water slide decals?
 
I don't know about streaks. As for burying decals, I'm not sure it's possible with that finish.
 
You should not be getting many streaks using one's finger. You have most likely gone over it too much. Use some 600 grit to level (wet sanding is an option ) then buff it. It is also a good idea to every three light coats to lightly dry sand as you go. Final level sanding and buffing needs the tru-oil to be really dry.

A number of decal makers do not recommend using waterslides under tru-oil. So I avoided doing so, but according to this video, it is possible. One thing you may have to be careful of is when putting the first coat over a decal to avoid shifting it. Normally with lacquer, a light dust coat would be done. Perhaps dab some tru-oil over the lacquer with a lint-free cloth to seal it about 24 hours after applying a decal.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bSAID6nUYc[/youtube]

Caveat emptor and usual YMMV applies...
 
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