Black Korina carve top

[chubs]

Finally making some progress on my Carve top Tele

I had a Just out of the box thread, but it's been a while so here it is again

Tuners installed

Body arrived

I didn't want a neck plate on this, so I had my mate machined up some inserts that would go into the body and a M5 cap screw sits flush inside, I made the mistake of ordering the body and neck with holes drilled, as the inserts are 15mm diameter they need to be moved inwards from the standard mounting holes, so I plugged them up.

Here is the body clamped up in the drill after boring the 1st hole

And here it is after drilling all 4 holes

The next step is to install the neck inserts, I couldn't find anywhere to buy them locally, So I bought a length of M10 all thread cut it into short pieces and drilled a 4mm hole in the centre, then tapped it M5, hopefully I get them installed in the next week or so.

 

[DangerousR6]

Nice project, but you must be overseas, 'cause we don't work with metric bolts over here much.. :icon_biggrin:

 

[chubs]

Correct, once you go metric you'll never go back.

 

[Cagey]

Interesting look with the cap screws.

I'm not sure making threaded inserts out of allthread is a great idea, though. Threaded inserts have a much deeper, coarser thread, so as to bite into the wood and give you a good grip. Allthread looks like dowel rod, relatively speaking. I'd be afraid of pulling it out of the hole when you torque down those screws.

 

[DangerousR6]

Correct, once you go metric you'll never go back.

I doubt it, used to have to deal with metric at my old job and hated it. Oh and this is for not using a neck plate..

 

[chubs]

I have a Chevy V8 in a toyota, so that's a bit of a mix, but I use to work for a division of Boeing where everything was imperial, hated it. Metric is much simpler. Oh and I have one of your neck plates on my bass which will get played a lot more than this guitar, as I don't know how to play guitar  :dontknow: and another one in my toolbox for a future project

Cagey, I've seen people on the forum use inserts that look to have a UNC thread, The threads are still deeper than wood screws. Here is a tutorial that uses M8x1.25 inserts, mine are M10x1.5, so even coarser than that

 

[DangerousR6]

I have a Chevy V8 in a toyota, so that's a bit of a mix, but I use to work for a division of Boeing where everything was imperial, hated it. Metric is much simpler. Oh and I have one of your neck plates on my bass which will get played a lot more than this guitar, as I don't know how to play guitar  :dontknow: and another one in my toolbox for a future project

Cagey, I've seen people on the forum use inserts that look to have a UNC thread, The threads are still deeper than wood screws. Here is a tutorial that uses M8x1.25 inserts, mine are M10x1.5, so even coarser than that

:icon_thumright:

 

[DangerousR6]

Interesting look with the cap screws.

I'm not sure making threaded inserts out of allthread is a great idea, though. Threaded inserts have a much deeper, coarser thread, so as to bite into the wood and give you a good grip. Allthread looks like dowel rod, relatively speaking. I'd be afraid of pulling it out of the hole when you torque down those screws.

Allthread has the same dimensional qualities as it's counterpart bolt size. So for example the major and minor dia. of a 3/8" SHCS is the same for 3/8" allthread. And allthread can be had in different grades as well. If you need grade 8 or 10 or whatever, but the fact is the threads are the same in corse or fine threads... :icon_thumright:

 

[vox_rox]

Nice project, but you must be overseas, 'cause we don't work with metric bolts over here much.. :icon_biggrin:

We play around with metric north of the border too, just not consistently - we kinda dabble you might say. Oh, and we don't have pennies any more either. Or $1 bills. It's almost like we're in a different country.

Peace,
Pierre

 

[chubs]

Progress has been slow, I had the neck in for a fret dress and had a set of pickups wound for me by a local bloke.

Unfortunately some of the finishing supplies I need are out of stock at the moment, hopefully I don't have to wait too long to get them, the weather is getting better for painting now.

 

[chubs]

Bit of an update, I've moved house and have only had a few short bursts of motivation since. So here is what I've done

Grain filled the body



Coat of Black dye


Sanded dye


I ran out of sandpaper before I finished so I'll finish the sanding off tonight and get some sealer on it with any luck

 

[chubs]

Got a coat of sealer on and it looks terrible, going to have to basically start over, a lot of the grain filler has come out and there is ugly sanding marks all over it that I didn't see before, bummer.

 

[bagman67]

If you haven't already done so, consider this order of operations:


Stain and sand back


Seal


Fill


That will lock your color where you want it, and keep yoru filler from discoloring the wood.  If you want the filler to match the stain, try tinting the filler instead of filling before staining.

 

[chubs]

Thanks for the tip, I was going to sand the scratches etc out that the sealer highlighted, mix some black die into the filler, re fill, sand then seal again. Wood finishing is all new to me.

 

[Cagey]

Depending on the wood, you may go through 3 or 4 sand and fill steps, then 3 or 4 sanding sealer steps. It's frustrating and time-consuming. But, the final finish quality depends very heavily on the base you put it on. If it's not smooth, the finals will expose your laziness.

 

[chubs]

Digging up an old post, guitar is all finnished now after being put aside for about 10 months.

Re doing the grain fill


After a couple of coats of paint


Final coat


neck inserts


Assembley

 

[DangerousR6]

:headbang: