Black Ebony Uniqe Choice
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bbl4ck
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Cagey said:
Yea, that's the way I see it as well. :icon_thumright:
I ordered a jet black ebony FB on my Warmoth V, not a unique choice, just standard jet black.
It is definately jet black with no streaks. I really don't see the need for unique choice jet black ebony :dontknow:
line6man
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I think Warmoth should offer more/better pictures of each fingerboard in the gallery.
I know that it's more work for the photography staff, but look at how much they are charging for fingerboards. It's not unreasonable to expect a few good pictures of a fingerboard you are going to pay a $45+ upcharge for.
In any case, it's hard to photograph Ebony. Either it's going to look like a pixelated black rectangle, or it's going to look like an ugly mess of pitted grain under a merciless flash.
I know that it's more work for the photography staff, but look at how much they are charging for fingerboards. It's not unreasonable to expect a few good pictures of a fingerboard you are going to pay a $45+ upcharge for.
In any case, it's hard to photograph Ebony. Either it's going to look like a pixelated black rectangle, or it's going to look like an ugly mess of pitted grain under a merciless flash.
Yeah I agree, although without knowing the logistics of it it's hard to know how viable that would be. At the very least, they should have a better way to look at the fretboards, because the way it's set up right now makes it hard to quickly and easily go through and compare them.
What I'd most like to see is a unique choice neck wood option. Although that might not be possible because the wood might look totally different when they've actually cut the neck. :dontknow:
What I'd most like to see is a unique choice neck wood option. Although that might not be possible because the wood might look totally different when they've actually cut the neck. :dontknow:
Jet-Jaguar
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I believe his mean the actual neck, not the fingerboards?AutoBat said:
line6man
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Yeah, he's talking about pictures of available stock for neck shafts. Obviously it's impossible to figure out exactly what a neck will look like from a relatively large piece of wood (By contrast, fingerboard wood does not get machined and sanded too far from the appearance of a fingerboard blank.), but it would certainly help if you wanted a certain color or type of grain pattern.
For example, if you wanted a Pau Ferro neck, the wood could be very light to very dark, with very straight to very wavy/curvy grain, depending on what Warmoth happens to pick from the stock pile that day.
For example, if you wanted a Pau Ferro neck, the wood could be very light to very dark, with very straight to very wavy/curvy grain, depending on what Warmoth happens to pick from the stock pile that day.
Exactly. It should help get you in the ball park at least, and cut down on unwanted surprises. Even relatively consistend woods like wenge show significant differences from piece to piece. I'd be willing to pay extra if it meant I didn't have to hold my breath for 6 weeks hoping I get what I want
Hello Gentlepeople. (My PC for the day) From a photography standpoint, it IS difficult to shoot Black Ebony fingerboards. Like Cagey said, they're either black or they're not. Please bear with me for a little photo theory. OUR eyes are hooked to a brain. When we look at a black piece of wood, we see it as black because our brain tells us that it's black. We also see detail in it, such as grain pattern. A camera's lens (eye) has no brain. The light meter tells it what to see. IF you use the camera's meter, it will expose your subject to render its apparent brightness to be 18% grey. I don't use the camera's meter anymore because I want colors and shades of brightness to be what I know they should be. Maple is brighter than Pau Ferro which is brighter than Indian Rosewood which is brighter than Ebony. I underexpose (according to the camera's meter) images of black ebony to accomplish two things.
1) Give the impression that they are black. 2) Show detail in them. The pixeliness (oh....it's a word) is actually the grain pattern in these fingerboards. That is, unless you are trying to enlarge these to look at them. These are being shot at 10.1 megapixels. They are shrunk down substantially for web use. If anyone on the forum is ready to purchase a UC fingerboard, I'll be happy to send you full resolution images if I still have them. Just email me at carter@warmoth.com and let me know what the item # is. I should be able to get them to you. Any other questions, feel free to ask.
Rob
1) Give the impression that they are black. 2) Show detail in them. The pixeliness (oh....it's a word) is actually the grain pattern in these fingerboards. That is, unless you are trying to enlarge these to look at them. These are being shot at 10.1 megapixels. They are shrunk down substantially for web use. If anyone on the forum is ready to purchase a UC fingerboard, I'll be happy to send you full resolution images if I still have them. Just email me at carter@warmoth.com and let me know what the item # is. I should be able to get them to you. Any other questions, feel free to ask.
Rob
WOW! Thanks Autobat. I wish I would have had that link about a week ago when I orderd my select Pau Ferro finger board! I did my best to pick the one I wanted from the neck builder but that picture is so small it's hard to deteremine a good one.
Next time (if there is one) I'll know better! Thanks again!
Next time (if there is one) I'll know better! Thanks again!
line6man
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Wyliee said:
And this is why Black Ebony is available at an upcharge.
I'll gladly pay extra for Ebony that is naturally solid black, as opposed to being aided by unnatural colorants. For those that aren't willing to pay, they can decide for themselves whether to use dyes, or appreciate the natural appearance of standard grade.
Cagey
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line6man said:
+1. It's like solid gold vs. gold plating. Intrinsic value aside, the wear is better. At least, what little wear Ebony suffers. Plus, I think the true black stuff is denser. I could be wrong there; I'm just going by the parts that I know are true black vs. the parts I've seen on guitars where they don't make an issue of it. The lack of braggadocio about a premium wood leads me to believe it has been arrived at artificially.
I like the slight color variants in the one I have that isn't jet black. I have 2 that are jet black and they do look elegant. It depends on what other woods I'm using.
Black ebony comes from the heart wood of the Mpinga tree, the outer wood is light . It is part of the persimon family , PBS had a really good special on it years ago. It is rare, and a lot has been deforested for farming. There is an effort to reverse that , but tree farming isn't short term profitable.
Black ebony comes from the heart wood of the Mpinga tree, the outer wood is light . It is part of the persimon family , PBS had a really good special on it years ago. It is rare, and a lot has been deforested for farming. There is an effort to reverse that , but tree farming isn't short term profitable.
Nightclub Dwight
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photoguy said:
One more reason why I love this company. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
I sent Rob and email and he was very helpful and quick in responding. He sent me high quality versions of the black ebony fretboards I asked to see, and they were much better. All the pixelation was gone, and I could see the variations in grain from piece to piece. I ended up changing my unique choice fretboard, and thankfully the order hant reached the shop yet, so it all worked out. Many thanks to Rob and Ronnie over at Warmoth for all their great support :icon_thumright:
