Bigsby on a fresh Warmoth Tele Body?

PFDarkside

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I’ve got a raw Tele body from the unfinished sale. It’s got the vintage Tele route, would this Bigsby kit fit the drill/string pattern and a standard Tele pickguard cutout? (I understand there might be some shimming and I understand all the restringing and usage risks of a Bigsby, yet have never owned one.)

I’ve got a 50’s hot rod idea for the Tele, so the Bigsby might fit the vibe.

 
Not sure about the bridge holes. I’ll check later today as I have a Tele with that exact item. No worries as to string holes as the strings terminate in the Bigsby itself. You already got a link to the string shaft which I highly recommend.

You’ll also see Vibramate makes a Spolier option. Have 1 on one of my Bigsby based guitars, not a huge fan as it decreases break over angle. I need to order a string shaft to replace it. (I have 4 Bigsby-ed guitars so I understand the potential pain LOL).
 
No, the mounting holes do not align with the vintage Tele rout. The plate uses 3 back holes instead of 4. Not sure if I’d let that deter you, the plate will cover the non used holes.
 
No, the mounting holes do not align with the vintage Tele rout. The plate uses 3 back holes instead of 4. Not sure if I’d let that deter you, the plate will cover the non used holes.
How much tolerance (front to back, side to side, rotational) do I have with the new mounting location?
 
Well my Tele came with one. I would imagine the pup route pretty much dictates that.

Another option would be get the B5 but without the plate. Callaham sells a Tele bridge that is slotted at the back that allows the strings to get to the Bigsby.
 
I second TBurst. If I were you, I'd get the Bigsby B5 without a plate/bridge (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Bigsby/B5-Vibrato-Kit-Flat-Top-Solid-Body-Guitars.gc), and also get something like the Vibramate V5-TEV Stage II Mounting Kit (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Vibramate/V5-TEV-Stage-II-Mounting-Kit.gc), which includes a vintage-compatible bridge/plate.

Why? First, the bridge will fit the 4-hole vintage layout. Second, I think the ashtray style plate (sans cover, obviously) is preferable to the flat plate that comes with the Bisby. That's personal preference though. And third, the Vibramate will spare you from having to drill the guitar. If you decide to remove the Bigsby later - no harm done.
 
I second TBurst. If I were you, I'd get the Bigsby B5 without a plate/bridge (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Bigsby/B5-Vibrato-Kit-Flat-Top-Solid-Body-Guitars.gc), and also get something like the Vibramate V5-TEV Stage II Mounting Kit (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Vibramate/V5-TEV-Stage-II-Mounting-Kit.gc), which includes a vintage-compatible bridge/plate.

Why? First, the bridge will fit the 4-hole vintage layout. Second, I think the ashtray style plate (sans cover, obviously) is preferable to the flat plate that comes with the Bisby. That's personal preference though. And third, the Vibramate will spare you from having to drill the guitar. If you decide to remove the Bigsby later - no harm done.
Thank you for the info. On the Vibramate is it a BYO saddle setup? Are there any roller saddles that are ideal for this style of Tele bridge?
 
Ah yes, I believe saddles are BYO in that case. I've had a good experience with the Callaham barrel saddles: https://www.callahamguitars.com/bigsby_bridge_saddles_catalog.htm

I'm somewhat surprised there doesn't seem to be a readily-available, Bigsby-compatible, vintage-compatible, roller-style bridge/plate (or at least I couldn't find one easily). But then again, FWIW, I don't believe rollers are really necessary for the Bigsby.

I'm intrigued with the layout of the Gristlemaster series: https://reverendguitars.com/guitars/greg-koch-gristle-90/ But this bridge is even less compatible with the vintage layout, and I've been told using this style bridge may require neck shimming.
 
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Ah yes, I believe saddles are BYO in that case. I've had a good experience with the Callaham barrel saddles: https://www.callahamguitars.com/bigsby_bridge_saddles_catalog.htm

I'm somewhat surprised there doesn't seem to be a readily-available, Bigsby-compatible, vintage-compatible, roller-style bridge/plate (or at least I couldn't find one easily). But then again, FWIW, I don't believe rollers are really necessary for the Bigsby.

I'm intrigued with the layout of the Gristlemaster series: https://reverendguitars.com/guitars/greg-koch-gristle-90/ But this bridge is even less compatible with the vintage layout, and I've been told using this style bridge may require neck shimming.
I agree, especially since Bigsby is owned by Fender now!
 
There are a lot of folks that use a cut 3 saddle plate with brass saddles which allows the strings to go straight over the saddles. I have used bigsbys a bunch and the talk I see about "needing" a roller saddle bridge is not warranted in my experience. Its not a floyd and if you expect floyd tuning stability out of it, you will be disappointed 10/10 times. Its for light vibrato and for that, well grooved brass saddles are more the sufficient.

Hope this helps.
 
I agree with above. I have std bridges on all my Bigsby-Ed guitars. No issues. Even with judicious work, the range is evidently not significant enough to cause issues with a properly set up guitar. I regularly gig mine and critique the recordings/videos afterwards. They confirm what I hear in my IEMs, no issue.

Spend that cash on the string shaft. That will make you happy.
 
While a luthier could retrofit the linked kit to an exsiting Tele body, it's some work, and requires drilling stud holes for the entirely different Jazzmaster/Jaquar-style bridge. The bottom plate itself is mostly just for trim/cosmetics. If someone wanted to use the Fender kit, they would be better off seeing if Warmoth would drill for a JM bridge, without trem and without string-thru holes, as a starting point.

But, as cool as the old style Fender mount looks, it has a lot of issues... 1) the break angle from the bridge the Bigsby is very steep, 2) the JM bridge has the same rocking issues all JM bridges have, and 3) because the JM bridge sits proud, you have to shim the neck (or angle the neck pocket) to compensate.

It is much easier (and more stable) these days to just use one of the dozens of aftermarket ashtray bridges that are specifically cut to allow the strings to pass through to the Bisgby. Just about every major Tele parts maker offers one.
 
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