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Best floating 6 point vibrato bridge

ramonmaruko

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Hello, first post here.

I have a Fender 62 AVRI Stratocaster body in need of a vibrato bridge. I am hesitant to modify it to fit the modern 2 point vibrato bridges because it might impact resale value. What are the best options available in the market today that improves and/or fixes the faults that are on the 6 point vibrato bridge?
 
One thing I did back in my youth was to unscrew the four middle screws. With only the two outer screws left I had for all practical purposes transformed into a two point tremolo.
That, and a good nut and locking tuners will take you far.
 
Logrinn said:
One thing I did back in my youth was to unscrew the four middle screws. With only the two outer screws left I had for all practical purposes transformed into a two point tremolo.
That, and a good nut and locking tuners will take you far.

I've read of a method of tightening the outer screws until it is just flush from the bridge and the other four screws to have a little gap between the bottom of the screw head and the bridge to still support it, but haven't read about removing them completely. Won't that put all the tension on just the outer screws without the support from the other screws? Is there no chance of the strings ripping the bridge off the body? :D


On searching from the internet, I think the options that I have are:

* Super Vee BladeRunner
* Gotoh Wilkinson VSVG
* Gotoh 510T(S)-FE2 or 510T(S)-SF2

The BladeRunner eliminates the knife edge completely and uses a steel spring "plate". It also improves on the arm socket, eliminating any slack. The problem is that I somehow cannot access their website to look for more information. Have they closed or gone bankrupt? It might be hard to find replacement parts if they're gone. It also is expensive and I am not sure if the additional expense if worth it compared to the other options.

The VSVG made the screw holes elongated to prevent binding and also improved on the arm socket. I think it also has more users and has generally good reviews. It is priced the same with the 510T 6 screw series.

As far as I could tell, the Gotoh 510T 6 screw version just improves on the arm socket but the knife edge is the same. It might also need a little trimming of the block hole to accommodate the larger arm socket, though I guess that won't hurt the resale value of the body or guitar as much as converting it to a two point bridge.

Since the VSVG and 510T are priced almost the same, which do you prefer between the two? I am leaning more towards the VSVG as I think it has more improvements compared to that almost stock 510T. If there are other improvements with the design for the 510T, I would like to know them.

Is the cost of the BladeRunner worth it compared to either of the VSVG and 510T?
 
I have a Bladerunner on one guitar. It works well enough and is of good quality however it may feel a little stiff due to the leaf spring if you are not used to it.

Something that was not available when I bought the Supervee but another option made for the purpose which requires no mods to the body is the Floyd Rose Rail Tail. Available in narrow and wide spacings. The link is to the narrow version. Although it only goes down in pitch.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJS7gBsQhHg[/youtube]

https://floydrose.com/collections/tremolos/products/rtn?variant=29880817170

You might also want to consider a Callaham top plate to upgrade what you have or replace it with a Callaham Trem.

https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_smodelbridgedetails.htm

Whichever way you go with the bridge you also need to pay attention to the nut and any other points of friction.
 
Welcome to the forum!

For a “better” 6-point trem, the Callaham is a great product. They’ve given attention to the trouble spots. I have one on my strat and have not had any trouble.
https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_smodelbridgedetails.htm

For an entirely different approach, check out the Super-Vee Blade Runner. It drops right in to the holes for a 6-screw, but instead of pivoting on the screws it rides on a spring steel blade. I have one of these on another guitar and really like it.
https://super-vee.com/super-vee-and-bladerunner-101/

All other things being equal, I would recommend the Blade Runner as it is just so easy to install and setup and just works really well. It is a well conceived and executed product. If keeping to a more traditional design is important however, I think Callaham has taken the 6-point trem about as far as it can go. I hope some of that helps!
 
I'll pile on for the SuperVee "Bladerunner". If avoiding modification is paramount, it's probably the best solution for dumping the 6 screw design. If you must use a 6 screw version for some reason, the Calaham is the best example of it available, but it's no solution. It's just the most precisely crafted example of a fundamentally bad design.
 
If you go 6 point, here is how I set mine up. It really minimizes the issues (I have posted this before, but couldn't find it).

Do not install springs or strings yet.
Loosen all 6 screws so that they do not touch the baseplate.
Press base plate down and forward until the mounting holes contact the shanks of the screws.
Tighten the outside screws until the baseplate starts to barely lift from the body.
Back those 2 screws out barely until the baseplate rests flush again.
Tighten the 4 inner screws so that they are not as deep as your 2 outer screws.
Make sure the baseplate is still flush against the body.
(With these steps, we known the screws are minimally binding).

Install springs and strings.
Depress bar and slip either 1 or 2 credit cards under the back of the baseplate. (This is where we want it in equilibrium).
Tune guitar.
Tighten claw screws (and retune) until credit card(s) fall free.
Now take a feeler gauge and check distance between the coils of each of your springs. We want distance in there and for it to be the same for all springs. (This means you claw may NOT be parallel to the cavity wall).
Raise bar and verify that there is still least at some distance between the coils of your springs. If there is not, lose a spring and repeat.

This works well, and honestly, it takes more time to type out than it does to actually do in person.

What we have accomplished with this is:
No screw binding on the base plate.
Equal spring tension to put at equilibrium.
Spring tension never goes to 0.





 
I can't believe no one has suggested the MannMade bridge. It's a six screw setup but the bevel is in the center of the screw holes so each hole has a knife edge and the screws all have an indent for the trem to ride on. It's essentially a 6 point 2 point trem. He used to make the original PRS bridge.
 
TBurst Std, that is also how I setup my vibrato bridges; though with a temporary block from the back of the guitar instead of the bridge plate. I doubt there's any difference with either. :D

For those that have used the Super Vee BladeRunner, is it worth it to "upgrade" to the steel block option?
 
When I bought the Bladerunner, it was available in one configuration. I see now they have custom options. I could not honestly say if the Carbon Steel block is worth the extra dollars. The standard configuration that I have has no tonal issues if that helps, it is a good quality product whichever option you go with.
 
I got my Blade Runner with the stock block, haven’t felt the need to change it out. I sprung for the saddle upgrade when I ordered and got the Callaham saddles. I did end up replacing the stock bar with their longer option, which really improved the feel of the trem action.
 
I have a babicz on my strat. Is a nice solution a s well.
Also moving the springs can help a bit. I have two springs on the bass side and one on the treble side of the bridge, if that makes sense.

Lubing doesn't hurt either. I use vaseline on the nut and saddles, and it makes a big difference!!

 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I've decided to buy the SuperVee BladeRunner with the stock block. Time to save up for it...
 
ramonmaruko said:
Thanks for the replies everyone. I've decided to buy the SuperVee BladeRunner with the stock block. Time to save up for it...

Thanks for letting us know. When you get it let us know what you think.
 
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