Beginner questions.

The Norwegian Guy

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Hello!

I'm new on the forum, and didn't find another place to post this topic. Please tell if I posted it the wrong place  :)
I'm from norway, as you may have noticed, so please don't mind my bad english. (when I don't know what word to use, I'll use a *  /  * )

I am going to build my first warmoth guitar, and I have a few questions.
I want to build a Strat with a Floyd Rose and HSS config.
- Is there difficult to assemble/mount the parts?
I'm thinking of mounting the neck on the body. Do I have to use shimmings (don't know if this is the correct word for it), to get the right angle?
- When mounting a FR. Is there something I should pay attention to in order to do it right, or is it just assemble the studs and the claw that holds the springs etc?

________
Andreas
 
Welcome to the forum!!!!

If you buy the body and the trem from Warmoth, they will mount the studs for you for $10.

No shims necesary if you buy the neck and body from Warmoth.  And they're not too hard to build.  Plenty of guys here have had their new guitars put together and in playing shape only hours after receiving them.  It took me a few days, but it still wasn't hard.  As long as you take your time with it and don't rush through it, you'll be fine...
 
Thanks for a great reply!

I have some experience with changing tuners on a guitar.
I had this old mexico strat that I decided to change tuners on. The original tuners was like the vintage ones on warmoth, and the new ones was Sperzel.
I had to drill a bigger hole for the new tuners, fill the screwholes (I really hope this was the right word :toothy10:) and drill holes for the guide pin.
I used a drill platform (If you know what I mean) so the job was done precisely. I found a piece of wood which i glued into the old screwholes (I still suspect this word to have another meaning, but I think you'll understand what I mean!)

I also have changed a few pickups on both stratocasters and les pauls, so I think the electronics won't be a problem :D

A few pics on the work I did on my old mim strat.



Anyways, I'll keep asking in this thread if there is something else I'm not 100% sure how it's done.

hope my english wasn't too bad :eek:

EDIT: removing link to body :icon_biggrin:
_________
Andreas
 
Make sure to specify whether or not you want a regular or recessed (extra wood removed so it can sit lower in the body) Floyd Rose.

Your English is better than you give yourself credit for.  :icon_thumright:

Also I think you meant drill press when you said drill platform.
 
Thaks! :D

I have no experience with FR systems.
When it's recessed, it is lowered down to the body as you say - but which difference in string height on the neck will there be if the bridge is recessed or not?
 
On a properly set up guitar there should be no difference in the string height along the neck in either a regular or recessed.

On a standard Floyd Rose (NON-Recessed) they rout a small angle in the neck pocket.  The strings are high off the body with that type, so to get the strings lower it needs the angle.

 
aha! I see!

What will the differences between recessed/non recessed floyd be?
Sorry for asking silly questions, but I'm used to hardtails :dontknow:

EDIT: besides the string height ofc!
 
Welcome Andreas!

First of all you shouldn't link to the body you're going to buy... someone else might buy it first! :sad:  But don't worry, I'm out of cash.   :laughing7:

Sorry, I don't know anything about FRs, either.  Have you decided on a neck, too?
 
Thanks!
*dammdidamm* removing link *dammdidamm*
:icon_biggrin:

I have not decided on a neck yet.
That was actually going to be my next stupid question  :hello2:

What is the main differences between the necks that costs 200$ up to 700$, and how much do I need to spend on a neck?
The body is light swamp ash with a quilted maple top, does anyone have suggestions on a nice and affordable neck?
 
the wood is the only difference in price, pick whatever you like the looks of, and i say you cant go wrong with maple on maple, so there is n ammount you need to spend, anything warmoth makes is good
the differences between a recessed floyd rose and a non-recessed in that on a recessed floyd you can pull up with it, on a non recessed you cannot, because there is wood under the bridge
hope that helps, and welcome to the forum
 
Thanks, dude!

I'm a good "old" (still 18 though) gibson fanatic and I'm resting my wrist on the bridge while playing. That wouldnt be possible on a recessed floyd, because it would reach a higher pitch because the weight of my wrist bends the FR backwards?
And I guess the cavity (don't remember how it's spelled) for the recessed is just bare wood and have to be "treated" with some sort of paint?

What do you reccomend for isolating afterall?
The coppertape or the isolating paint?

I am really thankfull for all these great answers, and your patience - both with my bad english and silly questions!


_________
Andreas
 
eh you can rest your hand on it fine i do on mine all the time you just have to use enough tension with the springs in the back, the number of springs makes it easier or harder to use the whammy bar, im 18 also, im a floyd freak though, i cant live without one if you get the body on a custom order the cavity will be painted but if its routed from the showcase it will be bare wood, any matte black paint or whatever will work, i just left mine bare, i did not use any isolating or shielding materials on mine, no problems at all. heres a pic since your project is similar to mine
 
no i mean if you choose to call them and order something "custom", something special that they dont have in the showcase section, as opposed to selecting a painted body out of the showcase, you can usually choose the routing you want for tremelo guitars. if the body is already painted it will be bare, if not then it will be painted inside the rout
 
There are several threads around here about blackening FR routs... I guess some sort of foam is used.

I was mostly kidding about the picture by the way ;)
 
I promise to try to use the search function more often :icon_biggrin:
I know that  :glasses9:  But there is a lot of a*sholes out there with more cash than me that could ruin my dream of that particular body just to be rude! :sad:
haha!

I'm going to bed now!
Upcoming gig tomorrow, so I better try to sleep!
Thanks for a warm welcome and great answers, guys!

:guitarplayer2:  :rock-on:  :party07:

________
Andreas
 
I have emailed warmoth asking for a custom neck.
A flamed maple neck with Golden 6100 frets, a square "end" - like the picture stratplayer1 posted in this topic.

I do not know anything at all about neckshapes and so on, so I asked them to suggest some neck profiles that gave the feel of a Gibson 50's neck

If I order a neck from the showcase and want to apply some decals. Is it more clever to order a non-clearcoated neck, and do the clearcoating after applying the decals?
is this hard to do?
I mean. If I ask them to do the clearcoat - they wont remove finish from the frets. Is this hard to do?
 
personally id apply decals after the finish, you cant tell the difference unless your up close and touching it, never tried to do a finish myself, but ti sounds time consuming, and the finish on the frets isnt a big deal, mine was hardly noticeable and came off with a few hours of playing
 
Okay! I don't like the look of a head without some sort of logo etc.
I was thinking about getting some transculent film to print the warmothlogo and the name "partocaster"
So the bits of finish that is coming of by playing doesn't come of in so big pieces that it looks ugly?

What do I have to think of when ordering a neck?
Which shape is closest to the Les Paul shape neck?
I've been trying to google it and search different terms in the search engine on the forum, but didn't find out anything.
I found out that the mail to warmoth wasn't sent due to problems with my connection. That's why I ask  ???
 
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