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Beehive chambering

Logrinn

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Have you guys seen the new beehive chambering?
Chambered.jpg
 
I had thought it was always beehive chambering?

EDIT: Nevermind, I guess I was just seeing things before.
 
Nope, and I have a chambered Warmoth body. As I understood it, the chambering was like that in the LP-style body in the pic you posted. Wonder how the new chambering will differ. (FWIW I wouldn't consider my guitar a light guitar, even with the chambering.)
 
stratamania said:
I'd prefer chambering that kept a little further away from the strap lock positions.


Don't worry...there is plenty of meat in the strap button areas to attach your strap buttons. The images above are composites of many different bodies in various stages of completion, and getting everything exactly to scale is tricky. In decades of building chambered bodies we have never had a strap button tear out.
 
And speaking of chambering....if you have your eye on a chambered body, now's the time.


20% OFF ALL CHAMBERED BODIES!!


 
Extensive chambering is something I'm tinkering with now. That's plenty of meat for the strap button. There's actually way more behind the bridge than necessary - and I think any meat left for balance should be all the way back at the butt.  (Same weight, more leverage).  I also think most people are pansies when it comes to how much strength is actually needed between the neck and the bridge. You get all your strength from the vertical thickness of the body. I suspect even just 1/4" worth of full thickness spars on either side of the neck running to the bridge would be more than sufficient. The width actually doesn't do much for strength in the direction of load. Also - the skin is fairly thick - and provides quite a bit of strength when laid over that core.

Geometry beats materials almost every time.
 
I want a concealed carry chamber for my sidearm.
Wearing a holster on the same side as the strap button hinders movement a bit. :guitaristgif:
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
I want a concealed carry chamber for my sidearm.
Wearing a holster on the same side as the strap button hinders movement a bit. :guitaristgif:

That's going to be an up charge for that one probably  :toothy10:
 
double A said:
stratamania said:
I'd prefer chambering that kept a little further away from the strap lock positions.


Don't worry...there is plenty of meat in the strap button areas to attach your strap buttons. The images above are composites of many different bodies in various stages of completion, and getting everything exactly to scale is tricky. In decades of building chambered bodies we have never had a strap button tear out.


Would that also be sufficient if I wanted to put in a Dunlop recessed flush mount Strap loks as below ?

http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/flush-mount

Interesting on the 20% off.
 
double A said:
And speaking of chambering....if you have your eye on a chambered body, now's the time.


20% OFF ALL CHAMBERED BODIES!!

Yes, I saw the offer and went directly to my account and my wish list thinking I would buy myself another body even though I haven't received my first one. :laughing7:
But sadly, that body I had my eyes on was now sold, much to my dismay  :sad1:
 
double A said:
And speaking of chambering....if you have your eye on a chambered body, now's the time.


20% OFF ALL CHAMBERED BODIES!!

WHY?  I like my bodies at 7lbs and up  :toothy12:
 
The hexagons and some of the other polygons have pretty small radii, which I take to mean require small tooling (imagining a router/mill type tool) in contrast with the long straight channels with a larger radius. Then that small tool has to be changed out to a larger one for the big areas of removal or run for longer to remove that material. Can anyone speak to why a more complicated (seemingly) design was chosen for the chambered backs? Curious about the whole enchilada - sound, weight, strength, production cost/time. Very interested in the process. Any insights appreciated.
 
snfoilhat said:
The hexagons and some of the other polygons have pretty small radii, which I take to mean require small tooling (imagining a router/mill type tool) in contrast with the long straight channels with a larger radius. Then that small tool has to be changed out to a larger one for the big areas of removal or run for longer to remove that material. Can anyone speak to why a more complicated (seemingly) design was chosen for the chambered backs? Curious about the whole enchilada - sound, weight, strength, production cost/time. Very interested in the process. Any insights appreciated.

[youtube]ApY0dRCVTnk[/youtube]

The CNC router changes bits on its own, with no human interaction. It grabs whatever bit it needs, and goes to work. As you watch the clips in the video you will see several different bits in use. Those were all changed by the machine. The only time human hands touch the CNC process is to flip the body over.


The honey comb rout pattern was developed to offer the best "weight reduction to stability ratio". All bodies will eventually move to a similar pattern. There is nothing wrong at all with the longer, larger chambers, but as always, Warmoth is trying to improve and refine our process and techniques. I can tell you one big advantage for Warmoth employees: when the bits hog out those long chambers it is LOUD. The honeycomb pattern is much quieter. It's so much easier to take naps now. :)


As far as weight....25% weight reduction is the minimum. On some bodies the percentage will be more...especially if the body style is large. This is because they have even more total area to remove weight from. For example, I held a chambered Nomad body yesterday that felt like balsa wood, it was so light. It was crazy. It must have been 3 lbs.


Sound-wise, I don't feel like the sound difference between a solid body and a chambered body varies any more than the variation between different solid bodies of the same wood/style. I know other players who disagree with me, and say they feel chambered bodies are more airy and open sounding. I'm not sure who is right. Maybe we both are, based on our different experiences. The truth is, there is no math equation that can correctly tell what a given body will sound like. The only way to know is to build it up and play it. That's why it's so awesome that Warmoth currently offers the 30 day return policy on chambered bodies. You can buy one and hear it/play it in the real world, and decide for yourself.
 
double A said:
Sound-wise, I don't feel like the sound difference between a solid body and a chambered body varies any more than the variation between different solid bodies of the same wood/style.

That's been my experience as well.
 
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