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Anyone ever finish the inside of the "F" hole cavity?

DustyCat

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Short and sweet:

I like this tele. I would like the finish the inside of the f hole cavity with a slightly darker/redder tone.

Do I need to prime the inside with anything or can I dive right in with a brush with some poly from home depot and start playing "Operation?"  :laughing7:

Oh, also you can't really tell from the light, but the cavity is an unfinished lighter shade (which actually makes the guitar look darker. That's also why I want to go with a darker/redder shade to make the guitar look lighter: Yelle Tele)

Plan B: If it looks awful, could I paint over the finish with a black matte?

Thanks!
 

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Sounds messy to me. I'd leave it naked.

Although Epiphone used to tape off the outside of the f-holes, pour in conductive paint, and shake it like a Polaroid picture, so it isn't completely unprecedented...
 
Doable, but I'd tape the CRAP out of the top of that body around the f-hole. You'd just have to be careful, make sure you get some good tape (not "this is good enough" tape), and don't leave the tape on too long. Even the best painter's tape can leave residue. Which is really never a good thing, but especially not on a guitar top. Then just be really careful and take your time taping around the f-hole. Sounds like it could look really good though! Post pictures if/when you do it.
 
Unfinished F holes are one of my pet peeves. Looks like a half-assed hack job.

I wouldn't use the brushes in the picture, though. You need something much smaller, for a more precise application of the finish. Brushes tend to show brushstrokes, though, so I'd be more inclined to use a different method.
 
Ever see an acoustic finished on the inside? If you gotta do it i would use a solvent stain. Poly won't change the colour, even tinted you woild have to put to many coats on.  Don't use any water based stains it may get under the finish at the back.
 
What I want to know is what the hell an F-hole is doing on a Tele.

SNN31BBMASAI280_462760a.jpg


No mojo. Is house for bugs.
 
Heh, 'course the Thinline might not sound like a traditional solid body tele with ultra twangy duck sauce pickups, but for me, its the 'f' hole that sells the tele. A kind of 'grandfather clock' prestige if you will. Wide Rangers don't hurt it none neither!  :icon_thumright:

At some point I'd like to outfit her with a raw "ranchero" neck a la Gonçalo Alves with 1 11/16" nut and Magnum fret rounds. Who knows, maybe even some scalping...i mean, scalloping  :headbang:

But that project is on the back burner till I strike gold. (Fender do like their 3-holes don't they?). Even staining might be a premature forecast as my work space is not very Pro Craftsman. This project is kind of ambitious for me, but I figured I'd work up a "Death by a thousand cuts" i mean, "Stain by a thousand strokes" mindset.  :laughing7:

This ==> So I guess I don't need to prime it then? Maybe I could trim a black foam brush to avoid leaving a trail?
This is the stain I used for a wedge shaped table that fits in a corner and mounts to the wall via brackets (that you can see in the picture above). It color and consistency look much nicer in person.

http://www.google.com/m/products/catalog?hl=en&gl=us&client=ms-android-verizon&q=golden+pecan+stain&sky=mrdr&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3112409015891185865&near=East%20Windsor,%20NJ&sa=X&ei=6seOT_DnAqj40gG0zf3IDw&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAQ

Thanks evabody!
:rock-on:


 
Well, if somebody held a gun to my head and said "deal with this", I think I'd use a regular brush, not foam. You're not going to be able to sand the surface of that interior wood, so you need something that'll reach down into the grain. Plus, I'd use some sort of solvent-based dye, if only because it's thinner and will bleed around better. It's raw wood, so it's going to soak things up pretty seriously, and you can load up a brush. Won't need to be as careful about brush strokes, which is good because your access is limited. You don't want to make a career out of this. Finally, I think I'd go as dark as possible right off the bat. You're probably not going to want to do this twice, and dark colors cover better as well as being more concealing.
 
DustyCat said:
http://www.google.com/m/products/catalog?hl=en&gl=us&client=ms-android-verizon&q=golden+pecan+stain&sky=mrdr&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3112409015891185865&near=East%20Windsor,%20NJ&sa=X&ei=6seOT_DnAqj40gG0zf3IDw&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAQ

I work in a Duron/Sherwin-Williams and I can tell you, that color is going to be a bit lighter than you're imagining. Mixwax makes an Ebody stain, as well as some nice deep reds. Definitely go check out a store sometime and see! Ask them to open up the can and put a little on a paint stir stick, too. I'm pretty sure our sticks are made of maple, so it'll give you a decent idea of the color.

EDIT: Actually I can put some on a stir stick tomorrow, take a picture, and post it here if you'd like. We have several different colors, and I end up with at least a couple hours of free time every day :icon_biggrin: so I'd be happy to have something to fill a little bit of my time.
 
Cagey said:
What I want to know is what the hell an F-hole is doing on a Tele.


No mojo. Is house for bugs.[/center]


"No JuJu in sky flower, only house for bugs"

They got an F-hole (thinline they call it) Jaguar now. I like Jaguars, and I like F-holes on the right guitar, but this looks like a$$ in my opinion.
 

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Hehe! You remembered the line better than I did. Fun flick, even though it was a bit depressing.

You're right about the F-Hole thing, though. Too busy, unnecessary, non-functional, unattractive, on and on. Not sure what the draw is.
 
JaySwear said:
DustyCat said:
http://www.google.com/m/products/catalog?hl=en&gl=us&client=ms-android-verizon&q=golden+pecan+stain&sky=mrdr&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3112409015891185865&near=East%20Windsor,%20NJ&sa=X&ei=6seOT_DnAqj40gG0zf3IDw&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAQ

I work in a Duron/Sherwin-Williams and I can tell you, that color is going to be a bit lighter than you're imagining. Mixwax makes an Ebody stain, as well as some nice deep reds. Definitely go check out a store sometime and see! Ask them to open up the can and put a little on a paint stir stick, too. I'm pretty sure our sticks are made of maple, so it'll give you a decent idea of the color.

EDIT: Actually I can put some on a stir stick tomorrow, take a picture, and post it here if you'd like. We have several different colors, and I end up with at least a couple hours of free time every day :icon_biggrin: so I'd be happy to have something to fill a little bit of my time.

That's mighty kind of you.
I would certainly appreciate a pic.
I am shooting for first week in May.

Non-Functional...WHAT!? (Head Explode)
 
Well I went ahead anyways fueld by some recent inspiring events.
I used the same stain as I posted before because I used that same stain on some shelves in my living room. I applied only one coat, and a layer thin enough to have to work the stain into the wood (very thin).

I don't mind the uneven shades inside the cavity (Certainly far better than before the stain) but a more uniform "Eye of Jupiter" might look better.

Comments? Criticism? Come at me bro!  :cool01:
 

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Thanks bro. It may not be "Heart Attack" LP but it means something to me, and  that's just one small detail of what I like best  about Warmoth....

But moving along, I am interested in a new neck for this Tele. I would like to fit the following:

Raw AAA  Birdseye maple core with Goncalo Alves. 22 SS 6100's Scalloped and Wolfgang contour with ***1 11/16" width nut.***

Will my guy know how to fit the neck to the pocket because as it stands, the current neck is flush and it seems like a 1 11/16" width nut would leave some overhang i.e. a lip  (he'd also have to drill the holes I would imagine)
 
No worries. The nut width has nothing to do with the heel width. If that's a Warmoth body, then nearly any neck they make will fit it like a glove, and you won't have to drill any holes. In fact, I wouldn't even bother to take it anywhere. Unscrew the old neck, screw the new one on, and you're good to go. Although, if you're not comfortable setting the neck relief, you might want some help with that.
 
+1 to Cagey. The only Warmoth neck I've had to adjust the truss rod on was the pre-owned one somebody else had screwed with the truss rod on. And even if you have to, that's a good thing to know and not hard to do.
 
I didn't see any option to order a 25.5" Scale length conversion neck with Explorer Headstock (25.5" scale length conversion)  :dontknow:

Is such a feat possible?
 
DustyCat said:
I didn't see any option to order a 25.5" Scale length conversion neck with Explorer Headstock (25.5" scale length conversion)  :dontknow:

Is such a feat possible?

25.5" is their natural scale length. It's not a "conversion". You have to specifically ask for the 24.75" or 28.625" conversion scale necks.
 
thats strange....I thought all "Gibsonesque" headstocks were 24.75"  :dontknow:
Thanks though
 
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