Any Wiring Gurus out there can confirm: Reverse Tele 2 humbuckers coil split ?

[KOABUILD]

Hey guys just wondering if there are any wiring guys out there who can confirm my Reverse Tele diagram ? 

I based my changes on the 2 Seymour Duncan diagrams in pic 2 and 3

Obviously the output jack will be behind the switch as its reverse Tele control as shown in Pic 4

-Seymour Duncan- dual humbuckers-coil split, 1 volume Cts push pull, 1 tone Cts push pull, Neck split (volume control) uses the outside screw coil for bass heavy "Hendrixy"  tone in single coil mode, bridge split (tone control) uses the inside slug coil also for bassier tone to avoid the ice-pick in the ear.

Thank you for any replies.

Pic 1.

Pic 2.

Pic 3.

Pic. 4

 

[Fat Pete]

By 'reverse', do you just mean swapping the switch position? If so, rotating your layout like that doesn't seem helpful!

It may just be that it's (relatively) early here, but it looks like the volume/tone are wired left handed. Also, won't the pickups be out of phase connected like that?

I need a rest.

 

[KOABUILD]

hmmm. good point on the phase part, why didnt I even consider that...lol  thank you

 

[KOABUILD]

So I got my Reverse Tele harness wired up ready for install, took me a bit to figure out as it turns out the CRL 3 way switch I was sold unawares is a reverse stagger design that is different than the Seymour Duncan diagram and what appears to be 99 % of the current wiring diagrams out there, talk about a head scratching pain in the ***.

However about 20 hours into countless searches and several naps to recharge my brain I got it figured and am happy to have that done.

Turns out although the CTS push/pull is super nice, its really tight and takes some focus to wire it up, though with a 60watt soldering iron with a PC board needle tip it wasn't as bad as it might seem, once I was able to wrap my head around the conversion of the standard push/pull diagram to come up with:

1.Volume control=CTS Push/Pull coil split for the Neck Humbucker, 2.Tone control=CTS Push/Pull coil split for the Bridge Humbucker,3.CRL 3 way selector switch (which turned out to be a "reverse stagger") that did not match 99% of the diagrams I could find online....what a pain....I almost feel like writing the company who sold it to me and saying "What the F***" Hey!

I started with the Tone control=at the CTS Push/pull pots: ( C1) =I soldered a lead wire that will connect to the (Red and White Seymour Duncan humbucker wires connected together) that I will run to the Bridge Humbucker pickup cavity later for hook up.

I then slid the leg of a .015uf Orange Drop Capacitor thru the front of the: ( No. 1 hole ) =of the Tone pot and wrapped the extra length of leg wire from the cap around the side of the pot and soldered it there and then soldered in a ground wire leading to the Output jack sleeve, and another ground wire leading to the Seymour Duncan bridge humbucker pickup cavity for the Green and Bare wire to connect to when I run it later for hook up, all connected at the side of the pot.

I then soldered the other leg of the Orange Drop cap to the center tab of the Tone pot just like in the Seymour Duncan Diagram down below.

For the Volume control=at the CTS Push/pull pots: ( C2 ) =I soldered a lead wire that will connect to the (Red and White Seymour Duncan humbucker wires connected together) that I will run to the Neck Humbucker pickup cavity later for hook up.

I then slid a ground wire from behind into the Volume control CTS Push/Pull pots: ( No. 3 hole ) and soldered it there and then soldered the other end to the side of the pot and then soldered in 3 more ground wires at that same point to run as a lead wire for the:
1. Neck Humbucker pickups Green and bare wire to be run to the pickup cavity for later hook up, and
2. a Bridge Ground wire to run from the Volume pot to the bridge to connect to the bottom of the bridge plate, and
3. a Ground Wire to solder to a lug screwed into the side of the Copper foil covered control cavity to complete the grounding.

I then ran a ground wire from the outside tab of the Volume pot also to the same point at the side of the pot with the others.

I then Soldered a Hot Wire from the Center tab of the Volume Pot to the output Jack Tip.

I then Soldered in a Hot wire lead from the 3 way Selector switch tabs, for both the Neck and Bridge Humbuckers to be run to the pickup cavities for later hook up.

I finished it all off by Running a Hot wire from the Tone Pots inside tab straight across to the Volume Post inside tab and ran that to the 3 way selector switch, which in this case got connected at the back of the switch as its a Reverse Tele Wiring. The connections I used are shown in the diagram below, as shown in the Reverse Stagger diagram

* "As I could NOT use the Seymour Duncan diagram due to the Reverse Stagger of the CRL switch" when did this CRL switch model go into affect ? anyone...
  They should at least post the Switch details in the sales description, I would have bought the other version had I known. Oh well, more knowledge gained, but what a pain.
**Heres an interesting article covering this issue: http://talk.philmusic.com/index.php?topic=252800.0

I can split either Neck or Bridge Humbucker anytime, Neck Humbucker is split by pulling out the Volume knob, which is closest to it, being that its a Reverse Tele control layout, and the Bridge Humbucker splits by pulling out the Tone knob. So Humbucker or Single coil tones.

https://ru-clip.net/video/yNUIn_UaqyA/dual-humbuckers-with-master-vol-tone-and-coil-splits.html

https://ru-clip.net/video/OOm9ZRGDJKg/how-to-test-your-guitar-pickups-with-a-multimeter-by-jonesyblues.html

Heres some helpful info should you find yourself in a similar predicament, I learned alot as well as how to use my multi meter to test the circuit throughout.

https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/19842-mod-garage-how-to-wire-alternative-tele-3-way-switches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSMtHlUgJG0

 

[Cagey]

...it turns out the CRL 3 way switch I was sold unawares is a reverse stagger design that is different than the Seymour Duncan diagram and what appears to be 99 % of the current wiring diagrams out there, talk about a head scratching pain in the ***.

This is why I don't like wiring diagrams. Parts can look the same physically but be functionally different internally. This is often true with switches and active electronic components, which means you can't tell how something works by looking at the diagram. It's impossible to follow signal flow, so if something doesn't work you're stuck with guessing. You need a schematic and bill of material, which you almost never get with guitars/basses. To be fair, guitar/bass controls are often so simple that you can just imagine the circuit in your head, but you have to make assumptions that can lead to problems like you just had.

 

[KOABUILD]

yep, right on all accounts, I tell you I spent some long nights pondering the details leading to some sleepless nights trying to make sense of lots of misinformation, only to eventually school myself in the basics to figure it out myself before touching the soldering iron.