Any way to make my rosewood neck darker?

NoOne

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So I recently ordered a rosewood neck and a clear satin finish roasted swamp ash body. I didn't realize how much darker the swamp ash got from the finish, and was wondering if I could compensate by making the neck a little darker.

I bought the rosewood neck because I don't want a finish, and I wanted the bare wood feel. So this is just an aesthetic thing. I'm wondering if there's anything I can treat it with just to make it a shade darker, without affecting the feel

 
I used pure Tung oil (not commercial Tung oil finishes) cut with Naptha on a roasted Maple neck.  Came out really nice and several shades darker that it started out.  It is really easy to use, but there is about a month of curing time before waxing and using it!  Unfortunately I don't have any photo's of it.  :(
 
What you want is a product called Boiled Linseed Oil.  Available at pretty much any hardware store.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yesterday was a bit too busy so I never had the chance to look. Attached is the parts, basically I want the neck to be 1 shade darker to compliment the body. Like the tone the rosewood would be if it was wet. That's about as much darker as I want it.

I don't want to use Tung oil because it doesn't mix with the rosewood, so I would need to apply a lacquer, which kinda makes the rosewood neck a moot point.

Does linseed seal the wood? I want to keep the raw wood feel. That's what I bought an unfinished rosewood neck in the first place. I'm wondering if I could just stain the wood.
 

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Linseed Oil is an old school method of finishing furniture.  Yes, it does seal the wood, but it will wear down over time.  Try it on some scrap wood to see how you feel about it.  If you try it on an old el cheapo beater guitar with a Rosewood fingerboard, keep in mind that it's likely going over a bunch of finger fung, rather than new raw wood.
 
Personally I think the rosewood is looking okay.

You have a choice to either apply something that is by definition a type of finish or stay with raw wood. A stain sits on the surface and is likely to come off.

So either leave it as is or find something that is a balance between a raw wood feel and a finish.

The following I have not used as it does not ship outside of the US.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/materials-and-supplies/finishing-supplies/finishes-and-solvents/colortone-fretboard-finishing-oil.html

Another alternative to do something similar with a very thin wipe on and buff off of Tru-Oil will leave a raw wood feel but give the rosewood a lift looks wise.
 
NoOne said:
Does linseed seal the wood? I want to keep the raw wood feel. That's what I bought an unfinished rosewood neck in the first place. I'm wondering if I could just stain the wood.

Yeah, boiled linseed oil does have drying compounds on it, so it can and will leave a film. Usually for rosewood boards a mineral oil or a boil oil or walnut oil is used to replenish moisture.
 
I know something that *might* work. About twenty years ago I bought a little bottle of Roche-Thomas Premium Fingerboard Oil, and I've used it on all my fretboards when I clean my guitars. I've noticed that on some rosewood boards, it darkens the board noticeably. The nice thing about it is that it's not a "finish" - you only use a drop or two on the wood between each fret (which is why after twenty years I still have 2/3 of the bottle left), the wood is going to "sweat" most of it out again (which you wipe off), and it leaves behind no film or gloss. But, as I said, it does darken some boards.
 
Stew McDonald's sells a finger board stain don't they? use a li'l of that, you can prolly even cut it with mineral spirits to make it not so black
 
Once a year after cleaning the fretboard use some mineral oil.  Makes it darker and is a good conditioner.
 
Don't use stains or finishing oils like linseed. Rosewood doesn't like any of 'em and at best you'll just gunk up the wood. Worst case you can cause some swelling, warping, and other permanent damage. A gloss poly finish can go on okay, either sprayed or wiped, and certainly will make the wood look a lot darker, but that defeats the object of using raw rosewood...

That neck is already close to as dark as rosewood gets when in good condition. I've had some a slight shade darker but not much. To make it any darker you'll need to 'over-condition' the wood with a decent wood conditioner like Dunlop's 02 Deep Conditioner. (Not the only one on the market but by far the most widely-distributed, so anyone in any country should be able to find it if they can't locate a local alternative.) This is not to be confused with lemon oil, which is mineral oil with a small amount of fragrance and solvent added to clean out dirt—but also 'undoes' some of the moistening effect—and will only maintain the board's current state.
Give the board a thorough clean, apply some conditioner evenly, give it thirty seconds then rub off any excess with an inkless microfibre cloth, or even just rubbing your hand up and down the neck will do. That will get the board as dark as it's ever going to get without a gloss finish. If that's still not dark enough for you then sorry, but that's just the nature of these things; some parts companies do charge a premium for picking out extra-dark rosewood, for this very reason.

If the conditioner works out then hurrah, but don't get tempted to repeat the conditioning very often. A full conditioning shouldn't be done more than once a year, if that. In my experience with rosewood necks (fretboard and shaft) and bodies, if the player has naturally dry skin or a strongly acidic pH balance (healthy skin pH is slightly acidic) then rosewood should be deep conditioned once a year or get a mineral oil/lemon oil wipe-down once every 6-8 months. If the owner has quite oily skin or a more alkaline pH balance then it should only get a mineral oil wipe once a year or a deep conditioning every 18-24 months. Take note that's always conditioning or an oil wipe, not both. Rosewood that's had strong conditioning won't need additional oil until the next conditioning is due and vice-versa if you start out using mineral oils. For my own rosewood necks I alternate, give them a deep condition then after about a year and a half give them a wipe of mineral oil, then after one year give them another deep condition and repeat the cycle.
Conditioning or oiling the neck more frequently than it needs will damage it. Rosewood lets you know when it needs attention by the colour lightening. Don't try to shove more gunk on it 'till it turns middle-brown.
 
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