Annoying Neck problem

lidesnowi

Junior Member
Messages
120
Hi good people
I have a problem with my warmoth bass neck, the problem is that I can not get it straight enough even though  I have tighten the truss rod as much as possible!
Since it is a Fretless neck it is important for me to have a near-straight neck to get the right sound and feel,

on my other basses( having old school vintage truss rods) i never have this problem, it is never a problem to obtain a perfect action with 0.05 to 0,1 mm of relief on those!
The thing is that the reason why i bought it was because it was supposed to be stable,,, well this neck is not!

Is there any solution to this problem?
The problem is is worst in the winter months then the relief moves to 1,0 mm or more making the bass unplayable!
if someone can help me solve this problem, I will be very grateful!!

Thanks and  :rock-on:
 
it seems odd to me that your neck is moving so much do to weather, but if you need less relief and the nut is botomed out and nothing is stripped or broken then you should be able to put a washer or two under the adjuster nut. but like i said as long as nothing is stripped or broken, you shouldnt need to make any modifications and i cant come inspect it for you, so take a good look at everything. if it is a vintage style rod then the wood may be compressed needing the washers but nothing like that should happen to the pro style truss rods.
 
Dan025 said:
it seems odd to me that your neck is moving so much do to weather, but if you need less relief and the nut is botomed out and nothing is stripped or broken then you should be able to put a washer or two under the adjuster nut. but like i said as long as nothing is stripped or broken, you shouldnt need to make any modifications and i cant come inspect it for you, so take a good look at everything. if it is a vintage style rod then the wood may be compressed needing the washers but nothing like that should happen to the pro style truss rods.
Thanks
It is a Super Bass Construction neck and the reason that i bought it was that it was supposed to be more stable?
 
Call them up and they will walk you through the process - sometimes the nut at the end needs more tightening before the truss itself can get tighter.
 
I'm not sure about your neck, but can tell you the double reinforced Fender necks are very stiff, and you need to take the strings totally slack, and give the neck some english in order to get them to move via the truss rod.  Once set - they seem to stay there forever.  I think Warmoths are probably equally, if not more stiff.
 
I'll echo CB's comments.  With my W bass neck I had to take it off, tweak the nut, then manually move it a bit.  Repeat until it's as you like it.

It's just got a bit of relief in it - and has not moved in 10 years.
 
Am I the only person who has never had to adjust a truss rod in his own guitars ever?  Maybe i'm just lucky........  :icon_scratch:

I wouldn't want to try to adjust my Warmoth boatneck, there is a lot of wood there I would be trying to move!!  I never touched the truss rod on it... it was perfect out of the box.  So was my Am. Std. Strat.... 18 years ago, and I still haven't touched that.  My righty Leo Fender sig ash G&L which I had to sell a few years ago, same story.  Even my spaghetti thin Carvin neck through custom hasn't ever needed tweaked!  I have adjusted some truss rods for other players, but mine have stayed straight so far!  And it's not like the weather doesn't change around here.... Cold dry bitter winters and sauna like humidity in the summer.... Again, I guess I'm just lucky when it comes to truss rod adjustments.... Now that I have said that, you know all of my guitars will look like a pretzel later today!!
 
some necks can take hours or a couple days to fully settle from a truss rod adjustment, A little english as =CB= said will help, but the overall ballance may take some time.
 
BigBeard said:
Am I the only person who has never had to adjust a truss rod in his own guitars ever?  Maybe i'm just lucky........  :icon_scratch:

I wouldn't want to try to adjust my Warmoth boatneck, there is a lot of wood there I would be trying to move!!  I never touched the truss rod on it... it was perfect out of the box. 

The W's ship slack in the nut.  Even just a small turn should've been necessary to take the slack out and have the truss rod atleast doing something.  With the Fender and G & L, that really isn't surprising as it was assembled and setup before you bought them.
 
The funny thing with this neck is that when i got it about five years ago i barely had to tighten the rod at all,then after two years i had to tighten it a tiny bit, then about two years ago i had to tighten the rod to the max!     
The problem is most noticeable in the winter season when the relief is over 1 mm making the bass totally unplayable.
Now in the summertime it is OK with about 0,2mm of relief  but not perfect as i consider that between 0,05 and 0,07mm is perfect for a fretless neck! 
Its a shame because the bass sounded amazing when i could get the action/relief right :sad1: 
I want to add that all of my other Warmoth necks and bodies are of impeccable quality it is simply the best !
 
The previous two questions are important. Different woods are more hygroscopic than others, and whether or not they're finished has a big impact on how they behave over time. Maple, in particular, is funny stuff. For as hard and stiff as it is, it will move a LOT depending on relative humidity and temperature. However, if it has a hard finish (NOT oil), it will remain stable for years. Warmoth won't even honor their warranty if you buy unfinished maple and don't finish it yourself almost immediately.

I built a guitar-playing stool for one of my brothers years ago, and used maple for the seat. It was a glue-up of several pieces to get the size right, and it was a cast iron bitch to get finished properly, as far as a smooth surface was concerned. Once I had that, I just oiled it, knowing how maple doesn't like to stain. You should see it now. Thing is all snaggle-toothed wherever there was a glue seam, and it looks like I didn't know sandpaper or flush-trimming bits existed when I built it. I mean, it's a horrid mess. I wish I had pictures - you wouldn't believe it. And those were pieces that were less than about 15" long at most - nothing like a neck.
 
=CB= said:
I'm not sure about your neck, but can tell you the double reinforced Fender necks are very stiff, and you need to take the strings totally slack, and give the neck some english in order to get them to move via the truss rod.  Once set - they seem to stay there forever.  I think Warmoths are probably equally, if not more stiff.

Reading this made me wonder:  can you use the trem to slack the strings rather than tuning down and back?
 
CrackedPepper said:
=CB= said:
I'm not sure about your neck, but can tell you the double reinforced Fender necks are very stiff, and you need to take the strings totally slack, and give the neck some english in order to get them to move via the truss rod.  Once set - they seem to stay there forever.  I think Warmoths are probably equally, if not more stiff.

Reading this made me wonder:  can you use the trem to slack the strings rather than tuning down and back?

Sure - anything that takes the tension off will work just fine.
 
How many hands do you have?

If you're looking to add relief, you don't need to detune at all. The strings are already doing their damndest to pull the neck forward. But, if you need to back off, then you need to relieve tension and leave it relieved for at least a little bit so the neck can relax. How long is a "little bit"? I don't know. Overnight maybe? Longer than you're going to hold the vibrato bar down for, in any event. Besides, no matter what you do, you're going to be out of tune anyway, so what would you save yourself by using the wang bar to relax the strings?
 
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