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actual nut width information

vtpcnk

Hero Member
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is the actual width of the neck mentioned anywhere on the neck?

note that by "actual nut width" i do not mean what is the claimed nut width of the said neck like 1 11/16 or 1 5/8, but rather the actual nut width of the said neck which could be slightly below or above the claimed nut width.

btw if you are interested in a neck in the showcase and want to know its actual nut width, warmoth staff do measure that and give it to you.
 
you've lost me a bit on this question. On my neck the nut fits it perfectly...which I would assume that the width of the neck at the nut would be what Warmoth is claiming they are.

the necks that are finished might be slightly thicker at the nut but probably not by much.



Brian
 
Yes, there can be a few thousandth variations and the measurement is written on the heel.  1.625, 1.687, 1.75, etc....

And, yes, a gloss finish can add a little bit to that measurement.
 
Why does this matter?

Is anyone really going to care if the nut/neck is a few thousandths off from being exactly 1 11/6" or 1 1/2" or whatever?

My nut fits the neck perfectly without being too wide to stick out or too narrow to create a gap.
I don't care if it's just slightly off from 1 1/2", it's fine however it is.
 
wyliee, thanks for the info.

line6, i asked  the question. so obviously i am interested in this information  :toothy11:
 
about the finish adding thickness, i have three warmoth necks - the maple/maple one is considerable thicker (in feel) to the maple/rosewood and the maple/pau ferro ones. could the finish be the reason?

btw when i say "thick" i mean thick - that is i can clearly feel the thickness in my palm and it has its effect when playing - as i have small hands.
 
If W did the nut, they finished it to the edges.

If you do the nut, you just finish yourself, to the edges.  Its not a big deal.  Do it off the guitar, fitting it a little as you go, the put the string slots in it once the nut fits the neck.  Should also say, you fit the overall elevation off the guitar as well, and the string slots are very easy to put in, once the nut is only as big as it need be.
 
This is why I think precut nuts will NEVER be perfect.  No 2 necks made out of wood are ever the exact same size even completely automated in the production.  There is always a variation somewhere, usually in the sanding and finishing process, so how can a precut nut be right?  My hands are not micrometers that can measure to .001", but they can feel smooth and rough transitions, like a nut that's larger or smaller than a nut width.
 
Pre-cut, or pre-slotted nuts are nut cut for the width of the neck.  You still have to fit the width and you still have to fit the overall elevation, and you still have to fit, usually, how it fits into the slot.  The width part is pretty easy really, a non issue if the neck is unfinished - just sand it flush.  On a finished neck, you can fit a pre-slotted nut....its a bit more work, but not a lot.  You just have to work it a little to get it just right.  A sharp scribe works for this, as well as good eyes and a gentle touch on the sandpaper.  You can choose to sand it flat - on the guitar - with a sanding stick, and do a minor finish touch up, or sand it just below the surface off the guitar and fill the slight intend back up with finish.  Or you can take your time and have it fit "just right". 

The wild maple tele I've got... on the goncalo neck, I put a pre-slotted nut.  First I had to work the sides, so it fit in the slot, but still snugly.  Then I worked the bottom of it to get the slot elevation just right - I never touched the string slots on that nut.  Then I fit the width, keeping the slots centered.  Hogged off 99 percent of what needed to be removed, then used a sanding stick to finesse it level.  That resulted in a few really small scratches on the finish.  They buffed out, cant even see them.  But I could have given them a quick drop of lacquer and fixed that all up perfecto.  HINT: Nail polish is lacquer.  If you ever need to make a really small and quick oopsie fix, even on poly... hit it with a tiny drop of clear nail polish and let it dry up for a while.  Level that and polish it out... its pretty good for that.  That assumes you're not really into "finishing" and dont have anything else.
 
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