Acoustic looking Strat bridge...AKA "Scartozi Bridge"
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DangerousR6
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:icon_thumright:
DangerousR6
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Milling Cagey's bridge.... :icon_biggrin:
click on pic...
click on pic...
DangerousR6
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:doh:Cagey said:
DangerousR6
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I'm 3D-ing the ends at this moment... 
arty07:
arty07:
DangerousR6
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:guitarplayer2:
DangerousR6
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Yes, narrow spacing standard flat mount...Cagey said:
If either of you, while in the throes of machining aluminum bridge parts, are up for making a standard thickness, short length, functioning aluminum tremolo block, I need one. The body is 1 9/16" thick, so the block has to be 1 1/2" /37mm or less. I want to try a light block, as I am not at all convinced that extra weight past the spring-loaded stage is an automatic sustain and tone enhancer. There are some very light guitars (and light strings!) that sustain very well, and I suspect that it's a matter of balancing the weight of components - i.e., bent-metal bridge pieces or Graph Tech plastic* saddles aren't going to need a two-ton brass block, rather a lighter block. I need it for a narrow (import/modern/52mm/2 1/8") string spacing, three-bolt Boogie Rails bridge plate, with holes for up to four springs. It's somewhat comical to me that the leading block upgrade guys are happy to sell you either a heavy brass block - for better tone, more sustain, greater sex after 50 etc - or a +$100, very lightweight titanium block for better tone, more sustain, greater sex after 50... oops I missed that bus. :icon_scratch:
*(excuse me - high tech space-age polymer resin, is what I meant to say. You know - plastic. :laughing7
*(excuse me - high tech space-age polymer resin, is what I meant to say. You know - plastic. :laughing7
StubHead: Are the 3 mounting holes and string holes in the same location on the Boogie Rail as the standard Fender bridge plate?
1 1/2" would be a good starting point, I can check to see what the tightest clearance could be done without rubbing. If the body is 1 9/16" an 1 1/2" would probably rub once the springs were added. I could probably recess the springs so the trem block and springs are all on the same plane.
Will you be using a trem cover?
1 1/2" would be a good starting point, I can check to see what the tightest clearance could be done without rubbing. If the body is 1 9/16" an 1 1/2" would probably rub once the springs were added. I could probably recess the springs so the trem block and springs are all on the same plane.
Will you be using a trem cover?
AutoBat
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Boogie Rail has two mounting hole options, 52 or 56mm; same with string spacing.scartozi said:
Just because one is 52 or 56 doesn't mean the other is as well.
You can use their template to figure out what you have if you don't already know.
http://www.boogierail.com/sizing/
The mounting holes aren't part of the block, though mine is 52mm as well as string spacing of 52mm. And the three baseplate holes are the standard Fender arrangement. I won't be using a tremolo cover. Because it needs to be short, the string holes should have just enough countersinking (?) to swallow the ball ends, but not way up inside like on some blocks, because that's obviously the length of string that provides the leverage. I think recessing the springs would be more work than is needed, but if the block could be about 1 3/8 = 35mm at the end of all processes, it'll work. I'm going to set it to a slight float, but for all intents the block pulls up (shorter) into the body. I bought this Japanese "Jagmaster" body cheap off of Ebay, made between 1996 and 1998. It's pretty clear that Fender uses the Japanese market to test-drive configurations before springing them on America, because now there are all sort of double-humbucking Jaguars and Jazzmasters in Fender's line up.
I just got my shipping notice for the neck today :hello2: so it'll start moving along, though I have to scallop the neck myself - I'm getting a Warhead 24.75" scale, 24-fret neck, which "converts" to the Jaguar body too. I'm getting good vibes.... I posted up some trade bait here:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=18565.0
But I could understand if you need money, instead. There is no big rush though, the scalloping may take me a while, so you could probably run the block mixed in with your other experiments.
I just got my shipping notice for the neck today :hello2: so it'll start moving along, though I have to scallop the neck myself - I'm getting a Warhead 24.75" scale, 24-fret neck, which "converts" to the Jaguar body too. I'm getting good vibes.... I posted up some trade bait here:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=18565.0
But I could understand if you need money, instead. There is no big rush though, the scalloping may take me a while, so you could probably run the block mixed in with your other experiments.
The three baseplate holes are the standard Fender arrangement- the outer two of the three holes are 1 5/8" apart center-to-center, each hole is 13/16th apart center-to-center. The Boogie Rail people didn't send any mounting bolts, and they look to be fairly difficult to find? Not at Angela, not on Ebay... I've got a great hardware store in town. The holes in the plate look to be 5/32", so I would guess that the bridge plate/block screws are short 10-32's? The Floyd Upgrade guy has them for Floyds, but no indication as to what they are and I don't know if Floyds and Fenders are the same.
http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=190&zenid=u7qa5ftr57c2ev9cb3b82t8d04
