Achieving a raw feel on neck with Tru-oil

[kdownes]

Is there a special procedure for finishing a neck with Tru-oil that will leave it feeling as slick and almost raw as possible? 

I'm looking for the closest thing to raw (or Warmoth's satin neck finish) as possible, but with a wipe-on finish, if that's even possible.  I've been finishing my new alder j-bass with Tru-oil, and it is coming out looking pretty great (although I'm getting some streaks here and there -- ARG!).  But it's a bit different than I'd expected -- namely, it feels stickier the way gloss finishes feel versus satin finishes, so I'm not sure it would be best for my black korina guitar neck I'll be working on next as part of a VIP build. 

This is my first finishing project, and I may be doing something wrong.  I've been following the directions from Luthier's Mercantile (http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/TruOil.htm).  I've put 3 coats of Tru-oil on my j-bass so far and had planned to go to 5 to see how things look, then leaving it for two weeks to dry, and the knocking back the gloss with a white 3M scotchbrite pad.  Perhaps this final drying stage will leave it feeling smoother and more appropriate for my guitar neck.

If folks have any advice for finishing a neck with tru-oil to give it that fast, slick feel, I'd greatly appreciate it.  If Tru-oil isn't the appropriate stuff for such a finish, what might you recommend?  I'm working in a basement that houses a gas furnace, so spraying isn't really an option (at least not until it warms up and I can do it outside) and I'd like to finish the neck and VIP body (also black korina) with the same stuff so they match.  I'll be doing a clear Colortone filler on the neck and body before any finish goes on.  Here's the neck in question:

 

[big bob]

0000 steel wool on the back of the neck, it will make the finish look satin and will make it feel smooth.

 

[tfarny]

I haven't used tru oil but I've had success with minwax satin wipe on poly, it takes two quick thin coats, a few weeks to cure, then it's exactly like a Fender USA satin neck. It will feel very plasticky and gross until it cures though.
I have a nitro satin neck too but I think I would give the edge in feel to the poly neck because it's a bit smoother feeling. Heretical, I know...

 

[dmraco]

I haven't used tru oil but I've had success with minwax satin wipe on poly, it takes two quick thin coats, a few weeks to cure, then it's exactly like a Fender USA satin neck. It will feel very plasticky and gross until it cures though.
I have a nitro satin neck too but I think I would give the edge in feel to the poly neck because it's a bit smoother feeling. Heretical, I know...

+1.  I used spray poly...satin finish..but the wipe on should have similar results.  0000 steel wool (or similar grit greenie) to your likeing.  Make sure it is cured.  It did like using the spray...seems to be a bit smoother going on.  Even if it is cold, keep the neck and poly INSIDE to keep warm.  Take outside (garage) to spray, and return in side to dry a bit.  Most poly recomends a 30-120 minutes inbetween coats.  I did 6 thin coat on a neck and it turned out great.

Satin Deft works well too but is it less "natural" feeling.

Is that Korina?  Did you stain it?

 

[ByteFrenzy]

You can get a glass smooth and hard finish with Tru-Oil. Just work through your 5 or 6 coats, leaving 24 hours between coats (which is a lot more than the instructions say). After the final coat, let cure like two weeks. Then progressively work through the grades of the Micro-mesh kit. I'd reccommend starting at the 3200 grit. When you've completed the 12000 grit your neck will be glass smooth. If you wan't a rougher feel you can take away the gloss with 0000 steel wool as mentioned before.
Personally I prefer the gloss finish, there's no trace of stickyness or anything, but the satin will work just as well.

 

[kdownes]

I haven't used tru oil but I've had success with minwax satin wipe on poly, it takes two quick thin coats, a few weeks to cure, then it's exactly like a Fender USA satin neck. It will feel very plasticky and gross until it cures though.
I have a nitro satin neck too but I think I would give the edge in feel to the poly neck because it's a bit smoother feeling. Heretical, I know...

I've thought about the Minwax wipe-on poly -- I've done some testing with it over a couple coats of Danish oil on some test pieces of korina and it looks pretty good.  I was hoping to do the body with something else, but I suppose the Minwax would work OK there, too.  I used Minwax on another refinishing project (a body) a few months ago and it turned out looking good.  Does a poly coat on a neck validate the warranty?  I like the idea of the micromesh pads also, however, so we'll see.

Is that Korina?  Did you stain it?

It is korina, and I have not stained it -- that's the natural look!  The first thing to do regardless of the finish is to fill the grain, which is DEEP on this and the body (also korina).  I'll probably use my Birchwood Casey sealer & grain filler plus Stew Mac Colortone clear filler as luthier's mercantile suggests, then do a wipe-on poly finish.  Pictures will be posted of the results no matter what.

Thanks for all the tips, everyone!

 

[dmraco]

Wow.  I have several Blakc korina bodies and have never seen it that dark...nice! :rock-on:

 

[kdownes]

Wow.  I have several Blakc korina bodies and have never seen it that dark...nice! :rock-on:

Yea, I couldn't resist that stripe!  The body isn't quite as dark but has a very nice grain pattern:

Here's hoping I don't screw it up!  I just ordered some micromesh pads as ByteFrenzy recommended, so I'll try them on my alder j-bass tru-oil finish and see what's what before I decide on a topcoat for this neck.

 

[dudesweet157]

Tru-oil takes a while to cure, that's why your body is still sticky.  My grandfather used to finish his gunstocks in Tru-oil (it's intended purpose), and after the final coat, he'd leave it to cure in his shop for at least a month.  Not sure how bad the humidity is in your neck of the woods, but IME, that's the main factor in how long it takes to cure.

 

[rockskate4x]

haha "neck of the woods" takes a few reads through before you realize it's not a typo that's supposed to say "woods of the neck" or something... I am way too into this stuff...

 

[kdownes]

What about this idea: I've experimented on test pieces with wipe-on poly over Danish oil, which actually looks pretty good.  But I do like the look of the Tru-oil, so I was thinking I could do Danish oil/wipe-on poly on the back of the neck, then Tru-oil on the front of the peghead so it matches the body, which I'll also finish with Tru-oil.  They'll definitely be some contrast between the back of the neck and the body, which I was hoping to avoid, but the neck is also naturally darker than the body, so they'll be contrast no matter what.  I know these are personal/aesthetic choices, but I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyway.