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A few things holding me back from ordering

solomonamoose

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1. Body jack route size. Are neutrek good? What size would I need for them, or should I get something else and what size hole?

2. Tuner hole size. What tuners to go with and what size. I can probably figure this one out once I figure on tuners. I'm just not sure.

3. What nut.

4. Neck plate or ferrules. I could probably screw up ferrules if I've never done it?

5 nut width.

6. Frets. Do you think low and wide would be a bad choice? I'm leaning that way.

Anyone experienced could maybe lead me in the right direction?
 
1. 7/8 side jack ( depending upon what body you choose.
2. Vintage (choice
3. Corian (choice
4. Neck plate ( my choice till needed
5. 42mm ( your millage may vary)
6. Stainless steel ( choice
I think the 1st choice is body type
 
1. Body jack route size. Are neutrek good? What size would I need for them, or should I get something else and what size hole?

2. Tuner hole size. What tuners to go with and what size. I can probably figure this one out once I figure on tuners. I'm just not sure.

3. What nut.

4. Neck plate or ferrules. I could probably screw up ferrules if I've never done it?

5 nut width.

6. Frets. Do you think low and wide would be a bad choice? I'm leaning that way.

Anyone experienced could maybe lead me in the right direction?

1. I used normal 1/4" Jacks like the switchcraft, so either 3/4" or 7/8". The 3/4" option needs precise assembly, so 7/8" is generally a popular choice. The "football" jack is the most suitable for bodies with large radius edges.

2. Apart from the tuners with vintage specs, a lot of modern tuners require 10mm holes. You need to choose to suit your tuners!

3. I like Graphtec black nut personally, but Warmoth don't do the world's best Nut slotting/cutting preparation unfortunately. You could order without a nut, and ask a proper luthier to do it as part of the setup. The Warmoth nut is ok to get playing as quickly as possible.

4. You can screw up the ferrules if you are careless and rush by bashing too hard with a hammer then damage the finish. You need to think more like a luthier and sand inside the holes to have a proper fit. A loose fit is a less serious problem as you can put a drop of glue such as slow-setting epoxy which will make the ferrules very permenant and solid.

5. Nut size depends on how fat your finger tips are. 1-11/16" nut width is standard for USA Fender strats, so personally I think its suitable for "average" adult hands. You should choose carefully as affects the feel of the neck.

6. Fret size is something you really need to get right as it will have a big bearing on the way you play. You need to feel comfortable to bend and play the way you are used to. Personally I think it is a bit foolish if you don't get Stainless steel. I like big frets SS6100 because bends are easy with thicker strings and low action, but that is only to suit myself. It depends what you are used to.
 
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I recommend a book ... how to make your guitar play great by dan erlwine. Also his guitar player repair guide. Also go to a guitar store and play a bunch of guitars. Use the internet to see what your guitar heros use.

The only way you'll know what you like is to try a lot of things. But you're doing the right thing by asking so you're cool
 
I recommend not ordering until you 100% can answer all these questions for yourself. The time to figure out what you want is always before you buy, otherwise you might limit yourself to what will fit after it is built (or have to do some fudging to make it work).
 
A stewmac kit is good for a 1st time build for practice, if you get a stewmac kit with all the parts, don't upgrade the pickups, bridge etc, ... use the parts that come with the kit, a dry run just for fun, $200. Don't spend extra on the practice kit... save money for your warmoth builds.
 
Here is my 1st kit, I put in prails with triple shots, ended up spending 800 on a practice build, of course I can still vulcanize the parts but it gave me a bit of experience ass a 1st build. 20210922_100307.jpg
 
I have Dan erwine guitar player repair guide and a few luthier books. I don't know what frets are on most guitars that I've ever played really. I ordered a Carvin with "medium jumbo" (don't see that option). But the frets seem big on it, or maybe just the neck is too chunky or maybe they're too bulbous. My best playing neck is a Kramer Beretta and the frets feel small to me. I shy away from stainless. I have looked into kits but my tastes are too particular for them. I can't have vol knob near hand and can't do tuneomatic nor Floyd so that itself limits. I'm gonna put the vol knob in the tone position on a music lander. I've never tried that shape
 
I recommend not ordering until you 100% can answer all these questions for yourself. The time to figure out what you want is always before you buy, otherwise you might limit yourself to what will fit after it is built (or have to do some fudging to make it work).

Agreed fully. The other reason is because we are going to tell you what we like. We're not you. There's no reasonable, practical way any of us can answer questions 1, 2, 3, 5, or 6. You're essentially asking us to design your guitar without knowing a thing about you, what your preferences are, what you play, how you play, etc.

#4, we can answer. If you've never done it before, an $800 Warmoth purchase is not the time or place to practice. I can tell you about the tools I use to do it, but I suspect that's at least five steps farther down the road from where your current experience level is.

I have looked into kits but my tastes are too particular for them.

You still need some way of practicing how to build a guitar from the ground up, though, so you know what you want and what you're getting. You're asking for a custom-built Ferrari from the factory in Italy when you've never changed the oil in your Chevrolet.

Again, we can't build your guitar for you, even through giving you a pick list for your order. Only you can do that, and the only way that can be satisfactory is by learning those things that you've admitted you don't know. Fret dimensions, neck profile, tuner model, etc. Ordering the parts is only step 1.

The whole point of the kit guitar isn't to get what you want out of the box. It's to learn the art and process of guitar building itself, without investing more money than is necessary when you're still a beginner. When you picked up the guitar for the very first time and didn't even know how to make a G chord, did you start with a $2,000 Fender USA Custom Shop? Or a $200 off-the-rack-at-the-music-store model? Did you end up upgrading or trading up that first guitar to something else that met your preferences as they developed over time and experience?

Same idea here.
 
I recommend a book ... how to make your guitar play great by dan erlwine. Also his guitar player repair guide. Also go to a guitar store and play a bunch of guitars. Use the internet to see what your guitar heros use.

The only way you'll know what you like is to try a lot of things. But you're doing the right thing by asking so you're cool
I second the recommendation for anything Mr. Dan Erlewine has written on guitar building, setup, & repair. He is an encyclopedia of guitar knowledge. I also recommend two additional books:
  1. Make your own electric guitar by Melvyn Hiscock (ISBN 0 9531049 0 7). This is my absolute go-to if I had to pick only one book. While I have the (now dated) second edition, there is a newer edition available. (Unfortunately, Mr. Hiscock passed away somewhat recently)

  2. Make your own electric guitar & bass by Dennis Waring & David Raymond (ISBN 1 895569 70 2). Much smaller, but has plenty of good information and is written with clear instructions and photographs. Good suggestions and emphasis on simple templates and tools.
As the other members have suggested, I suggest reading and planning as much as possible prior to spending your money, as it is likely that your preferences may change over time.
 
Hi

"....My best playing neck is a Kramer Beretta and the frets feel small to me. I shy away from stainless. "

According to the Kramer forum the new Baretta Special comes with "Dunlop 6150 frets" which are .102 wide & .042in tall. The Kramer forum says this is too low for shredding and I agree. https://kramerforumz.com/viewtopic.php?t=6728

Warmoth offers these fret (Jescar is the manufacturer) which are all taller than .042in

Used By: Modern Fender American® necks SS6150 .104" X .047" The standard "jumbo" size
Used By: Unique to Warmoth SS6115 .108" x .051" "Jumbo" wire with more peak
Used By: Common on Ibanez® necks SS6100 .118" X .058" A very large wire, almost scalloped feel


I have a modern Kramer Beretta Special and except for the narrow nut width it's the best guitar I own. If you like the Baretta you should definitely pick the Wizard neck shape.


Before I ordered my first Warmoth neck I spent hours and hours reading the Warmoth website, researching wood types, fret sizes and the like. It was a huge effort but I definitely feel it was worth it.
 
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