A Few Telecaster Questions

[Tipperman]

Just a few questions. The only telecaster I own is a Squier tele gifted to me when I started playing. I like it a lot, but it's absolutely terrible. I am planning to build a Warmoth telecaster, and had a few questions for all of you tele nuts out there!

First of all, some info. Alder body, white binding on both sides, Tonar finished. 3 tone sunburst. Neck will be Q-Sawn Maple, Indian Rosewood (was going to go Brazilian, but indian is more affordable) Cream face dots (Or I may ask Tonar to do clay dots, haven't decided!)

I am torn on a few things. I want a 3 saddle bridge, probably Callaham with brass saddles. However, I am torn on the pickups, pickguard color (Mint green? White?) tuners (Leaning towards Schaller, but very very open to suggestions) Dangerous neck plate or no?

For pickups, what would you guys recommend? The only ones I know anything about are the Bare Knuckle 55 Stagger Blackguard and Lindy Fralin stock. It has to have a cover on the neck pickup, that's necessary for me. Tuners? Nut material? I am trying to get a very vintage tele look and feel. I am think Clapton neck contour as well. I should be placing my order for the body soon to have it made, and then ship to Tonar whenever it arrives. The biggest part I have trouble with is pickups, on any guitar, so PLEASE share your preferences, etc!

 

[Cagey]

I don't understand why you'd buy a body/neck from one of the best manufacturers of such things that exists, get it finished by one of the best finishers in the biz, then put one of the worst bridges ever designed on it. Nothing against Calaham because they do make some good parts, but that's just a bad bridge. If you really like the Tele bridge design, at least get the Gotoh unit...

They're only $44 at Warmoth, so if it turns out you don't like having a guitar that's tunable, you can always put the junk design on there without any modification and you won't have lost much money. In fact, you'd probably be able to sell it fairly easily.

For a neck plate, I highly recommend the Dangerous neckwear. He does a good job.

I'm partial to the Schaller mini-locker tuners as well. Very nice parts.

I don't know what to tell you about pickups for it, though. What I'd recommend would probably be a million miles from what would make you happy. When I build a new guitar, I pretty much just look for something noiseless that I haven't tried yet, which means I'll be building guitars for many years to come. Gonna have to start selling these things off <grin>

 

[Jusatele]

there are some good bridges out there that are vintage, look around, you do realize that there is a intonation problem unless you get a set of compensated saddles?
they make good tuners now that have the vintage look also, just look around the net for them
now for a vintage look, find a single ply .60 bakelite black pickguard.
and pickups, I am a Lollar nut, love his stuff, but he is real proud of his stuff also, a st will run 200 clams.
And tell you what, Dangerous is the only way to go with a neckplate. I would rather fight than switch.

 

[Kostas]

Bone nut.
Suhr tele pickup set.
Check the '59 profile, it's not fat like the two fat profiles but it's fatter than the Clapton & SRV. I like the assymetric profile on SRV but I wish it was fatter.
SS frets.
I agree about the Gotoh bridge. It's not vintage but it's good like any Gotoh product. Vintage tele bridges are hard on the hands, check their sides. They are different than the Gotoh bridge.

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

Bone nut.
Suhr tele pickup set.
Check the '59 profile, it's not fat like the two fat profiles but it's fatter than the Clapton & SRV. I like the assymetric profile on SRV but I wish it was fatter.
SS frets.
I agree about the Gotoh bridge. It's not vintage but it's good like any Gotoh product. Vintage tele bridges are hard on the hands, check their sides. They are different than the Gotoh bridge.

+1 on the stainless steel frets.  Nickel doesn't hold up as well as SS.

I'm also a fan of Gotoh.  I have Gotoh tuners on my guitar, and they are of the highest quality; very nice hardware.

 

[tfarny]

Yes, everything gotoh makes is pretty good and it's usually reasonably priced for some reason. However I just ordered a hipshot vintage tele bridge and should see it by Friday - it's got three brass compensated saddles, a thick stainless steel baseplate, and no lip at all - kind of the best of the old and new worlds (like I said, I haven't seen it yet).
Pickups - The noiseless Dimarzio Area T set is very good, very very quiet. I will sell you an area T neck pickup if you are interested - just pm. Lollar makes a fantastic product in the vintage market. I can't personally vouch for too many other tele pickups, but there are a ton of great pickups out there, there are a lot of ways to go right and not too many ways to go wrong.

 

[mayfly]

I have 5 warmoth telecasters.  Here's what I suggest

Pickups - go with Lollar.  Expensive yes, but worth every penny.  You won't be sorry.

Bridge - In contrary to some comments above (from forum members that I hold in high regard), the three saddle old school tele bridge is best.  Sounds good, looks good, and if you get a Joe Barton ($60 from all parts) will intonate without issues.

Tuners - I'm a practical sort, kinda lazy, and play out as much as I can.  I like the planet waves tuners because they are fast to change strings and I don't need tools for them.  Having said that, any quality tuner will be just fine.

The rest - that's going to be up to you.  For the pickguard, I'd just ask Greg what he thinks will work best with the finish.

Yours,
Mayfly

One last thing - get the fattest neck you feel comfortable with.

 

[Soylent]

I have 5 warmoth telecasters.  Here's what I suggest

Pickups - go with Lollar.  Expensive yes, but worth every penny.  You won't be sorry.

Bridge - In contrary to some comments above (from forum members that I hold in high regard), the three saddle old school tele bridge is best.  Sounds good, looks good, and if you get a Joe Barton ($60 from all parts) will intonate without issues.

Tuners - I'm a practical sort, kinda lazy, and play out as much as I can.  I like the planet waves tuners because they are fast to change strings and I don't need tools for them.  Having said that, any quality tuner will be just fine.

The rest - that's going to be up to you.  For the pickguard, I'd just ask Greg what he thinks will work best with the finish.

Yours,
Mayfly

One last thing - get the fattest neck you feel comfortable with.

Also, not to seemingly be mean to cagey, but I as well use the 3 saddle on my best tele, and it is brilliant. I also go the PWaves route.. which works out well.. since my blue tele has a W neck I purchased from one "mayflown" back in the day.

Can't wait to see what all you come up with!

 

[tfarny]

I also don't want to be mean to Cagey, wonderful bloke and all, but he is quite wrong about the 3-saddle bridge (in my opinion, which could also be erroneous). No offense intended to any parties, named or unnamed.

This whole "be nice" thing is going to take some getting used to....

 

[anorakDan]

I'm not really a Tele guy, so take it for what my opinion is worth, but I have to back up Cagey. That is one lovely bridge and looks to be everything a Tele bridge should be. It's also, as Cagey pointed out, easily swapped for something more traditional if you just can't live with it.

 

[mayfly]

One thing that no one has mentioned....

go for the dangerous neck plate.  They are cool, inexpensive for what they are, and Mr R6 is a good guy.

 

[Tipperman]

The three saddle would be compensated. I'll look into the lollars. Thanks guys.

 

[Unwound G]

You mentioned you are trying to get a very vintage Tele look and feel so the old traditional 3 saddle Ashtray bridge is probably vital.  Whatsmore I always claim the steel bridge and pickup mount is a major contributor to pure Tele sound as the magnetic field, however subtle, do extends beyond the pickup to the whole bridge plate making it a wider tone sensing center.  The modern Gotoh 6 saddle type is non ferrous and do not create any magnetic fields.

Intonation for a 3 saddle bridge is never a big issue. Compensated or slanted barrel saddles can be as precise as a strobe tuner demands.  

 

[Tonar8352]

To replicate this guitar as close to details as possible I would go with many of the above suggestions, which would give you this look, but some modern twists.
1. You’re right on with Alder and white binding. The lacquer will yellow it up.
2. Total vintage neck with whatever radius you want. Maple with a Brazilian board and clay dots will be the most accurate. I would do anything I could to figure out how to get a dark Brazilian board for this guitar. I'm with Trevor on trying to live with the fattest neck you can. I will say that the Warmoth boat necks I have been getting lately have tended to have the feel of a V in the first 5 fret area, so be aware of that.
3. Pickups are going to be your call there are so many to choose from and most of them are good.
4. Traditional bridge with compensating saddles.
5. Callaham mint pickguard.
6. Tuners traditional Kluson style double line. They will look more correct on this guitar
7. And I'm sorry all but I 'm old school and I would stick with traditional frets. Put stainless on your shredder guitar.

This will not be an inexpensive guitar to build but when it is finished it will be a showstopper.

 

[mayfly]

To replicate this guitar as close to details as possible I would go with many of the above suggestions, which would give you this look, but some modern twists.
1. You’re right on with Alder and white binding. The lacquer will yellow it up.
2. Total vintage neck with whatever radius you want. Maple with a Brazilian board and clay dots will be the most accurate. I would do anything I could to figure out how to get a dark Brazilian board for this guitar. I'm with Trevor on trying to live with the fattest neck you can. I will say that the Warmoth boat necks I have been getting lately have tended to have the feel of a V in the first 5 fret area, so be aware of that.
3. Pickups are going to be your call there are so many to choose from and most of them are good.
4. Traditional bridge with compensating saddles.
5. Callaham mint pickguard.
6. Tuners traditional Kluson style double line. They will look more correct on this guitar
7. And I'm sorry all but I 'm old school and I would stick with traditional frets. Put stainless on your shredder guitar.

This will not be an inexpensive guitar to build but when it is finished it will be a showstopper.

wow - can you make one with a bender?

 

[Tonar8352]

No problem, you know where to send the body.  :icon_thumright:

 

[Jusatele]

One thing that no one has mentioned....

go for the dangerous neck plate.  They are cool, inexpensive for what they are, and Mr R6 is a good guy.

ah, I mentioned it, guess I am a Nobody

 

[Cagey]

ah, I mentioned it, guess I am a Nobody

Hehe! Yeah, me too. Guess I'll just eat worms <grin>

 

[Soylent]

ah, I mentioned it, guess I am a Nobody

Hehe! Yeah, me too. Guess I'll just eat worms <grin>

I didn't mention it.. but I'll join you.  :laughing7:

 

[Jusatele]

I love this forum