2-point strat trem setup.

[LushTone]

On a 25" scale Warmoth strat with 9-42 strings, how many springs should I be using to float my Gotoh 2-point trem so that the G string bends up a step and a half?

I appreciate the info! :help:

 

[stratamania]

I would use 3 springs. Did you mean 25 1/2 " scale ?

You'll also have to adjust the claw. If you get the back of the trem about an 1/8 " or 3mm off the body it will get you in the ballpark.

 

[line6man]

It's very much a personal preference. I like my trems to have a bit more resistance to movement so that I can control them better, but others like very little resistance. Springs are one of the easiest things to experiment with, however, so why not just try different spring configurations?

 

[Cagey]

On a 25" scale Warmoth strat with 9-42 strings, how many springs should I be using to float my Gotoh 2-point trem so that the G string bends up a step and a half?

Sharping 3 half steps isn't a function of how many springs you have installed; it's more a matter of interference. You will often find that the "sustain block" will bang into the front of the cavity cut. Some blocks will have a relief cast into them for just that reason.

3 springs has become sort of a "standard" for vibrato bridges, but you'll find with 5 springs that you get a more reliable return to neutral. If you wanna play in tune...

There's a school of thought that says too many springs makes for too stiff an action, but it ignores physics. Why? Nobody knows. But, if you have a set of 9-42 slinkys on the thing, you've got about 115 pounds of pull at the bridge. The springs have to balance against that in order to float. If you have too many springs or they're too tight, the bridge won't float - it'll be flat on the body or racked up in the air.

 

[stratamania]

To add the amount of springs is a preference, but the important thing here is that the amount of tension exerted by the springs needs to balance that exerted by the strings.

That also is not just a function of how many springs but the tension of the springs and the adjustment of the claw.

The 1 1/2 steps on the G isn't necessarily critical and neither is an angled claw. Although you will see articles and videos that say it is. Just experiment to find what works for you.

Other things to think about are in no particular order.

A well cut and lubricated nut. Big bends Nut sauce is my own preference here. But Vaseline mixed with graphite works ok too.

Lube also the pivot points of the bridge, WD40 is another possibility for this.

Next if you use string trees lube those too.

locking tuners.

And then technique...

 

[Cagey]

When it comes to lubrication, if you must do it, what you want is what engine guys call "assembly lube". It's lithium grease and it lasts forever, takes a ton of pressure and is slicker than snot. You can find it at most automotive stores for a LOT less than some guitar stores will sell you axle grease.

 

[line6man]

I have had a $4 tube of GHS GraphitAll lube for many years now. I think the price has gone up, but it's still pretty cheap, and does the job for me.

 

[TBurst Std]

It is all a balance. I use the least number of springs needed to achieve the float I desire while still insuring that there is some spacing (though minimal) between the coils of the srpings. Then I adjust the claw on either side to try to achieve an even amount of spacings between the coils of the outer springs. What I feel this helps is with the uneven tensions on low vs high strings. I am making the presumption that each spring is pretty much like the other in the set, and if I set them at equal coil spacings, they are balanced in relation to the string tension at that point.

It all may be for naught, but I use a 6 point trem that does actually stay in tune pretty well when coupled with Dan E's advise on how to set up those 6 screws. (Which is basically set up the outer 2 to act as your fulcrums and the others are along for the ride).