1st Warmoth build questions

zebopdin

Newbie
Messages
14
Hey all! I'm sure you get a lot of this, but I wanted to float my idea out there for some of you more experienced warmoth peeps to look over. I'm getting ready to do my first build and I wanna make sure I get it right.
Here's my concept:
Strat style
Front route
Chambered Swamp Ash w/ Flame maple top
Recessed Shaller FR
All the contours, including heel
Black/Brown/Yellow Burst

Warmoth Pro Neck
Standard thin
Flame maple with Ebony fretboard
Matching burst headstock
Jumbo SS frets
Abalone dots

Screamin Demon humbucker
Neck pup (undecided) I want something that sounds very strat like with maybe a bit more beef! Trying to find a good combo for the SD

Basically I'm trying to put something together that has classic style with modern functionality (Think Tom Anderson without all the frills) My main concern at this point is the body wood. I'm thinking that maybe the combination of Swamp ash, maple neck and ebony fretboard will just make the guitar to damn bright! I've considered going mahogany to fatten it up a bit, but i'm concerned about the weight. Maybe I'm better off sticking with something more traditional like alder. Any thoughts?

Also I'm up in the air as to the string spacing between the R3 and R4 nut. I understand the difference (technically) but I'm not sure of which feel I would prefer. Is the R3, with it's tighter spacing, a common choice on non-bound necks? Anyone know what the most common nut designation is on your average FR equipped guitar? And are there any factory guitars out there that you know of with the different R designation nuts to go and try out?

Thanks in advance!

-e

:cool01:
 
Rather than Mahogany for the body wood, how about Black Korina?
 
Great start on your spec sheet ! but you missed these . . .

1.Hdwr. color (Blk/gold/chrome)

2. pup config. (SSS , HxH , etc...)

3. knob config.

and dbl. check if they do recessed FR for a chambered body

I have big hands , use that as your gauge of how you choose between the R3 and R4. I went a L4 and don't have any problems, but I prefer a 1 3/4".
my Hamer Explorer is a 1 11/16", ever so subtle but, the strings are absolutely and noticably too close for my optimum width.
 
Sounds like you got a pretty good game plan,To fatten it up I'd say mahogany or black korina as RLW suggested. And weight shouldn't be an issue if your going to have it chambered, mahogany and black korina both will lighten up quite nicely after chambering..I have a Warmoth VW with a black korina back and koa top, with SD invaders and it's very FAT. But it's not chambered so it's a bit on the heavy side..  And welcome to the board... :icon_thumright:
 
Welcome to the board!  As many will agree the pickups you choose have more to do with how bright your tone will be than the body, neck and fretboard woods.  I prefer the R4 nut on the floyd.  It gives me some more space for the "Wyldish" bends I like to do.  I have never had a problem with binding and that size nut.  Welcome again and good luck!
 
Wow! Thanks for all the great responses! You all sure know how to make a newbie feel welcome! After a little more digging I realized you guys hit the nail on the head! I think the black korina is the way to go. Tonally, it's right where I wanna be. Plus, it looks great. And that answers the question as to whether or not I'm gonna burst the back!
For hardware I'm goin' black. Although I may go black chrome on the tuners and knobs. I saw a strat on the board here that somebody posted with ufo knobs. Man, that looked cool! If I could find those in black chrome I'd be all over it! I'm also seriously considering going with canary for the neck if it's available.
Pup config. is gonna be HSS, although I'm doing a black pick guard with only the hum and neck pup routed out. (Right now it's gonna be basically a live guitar so I don't need it to be ultra flexible, tone wise.) but this way I can swap the pick guard out in the future if I wanna mix things up.  Plus, I may just go single volume, no tone. In the 20 years I've been playin' live I've never once used those damn tone knobs! LOL  Also may do a coil tap on the hum, although I'm not sure about tappin' the demon.
Talked to Warmoth and they said, yes, they can do a recess with a hollow body.
I'm still up in the air on the R3 vs R4. I'm gonna have to work that one out. And I'm still in the market for a good neck pup. (any favs?) I'm also slightly him-hawing on the black/brown/yellow burst. I was originally thinking tobacco, but all the showcase guitars with flame maple tops and tobacco burst looked VASTLY different. Some I love and some I absolutely hate! Seems like the B/B/Y is more consistent. Anyone have any insight on why the tobacco bursting is so varied?
And once again, Thanks guys! This board rocks and you all have been super cool and helpful! Definitely one of the best message board experiences I've had in the world of gear forums! Can't wait to have this baby finished and get the pics up! I don't think I've been this excited since I got my first bicycle!! LOL  :hello2:
Peace,
-e
 
About your knob config , 2 of my builds are w/o ANY . Hard-wired straight to the jack , both single pup,btw .
 
How about Canary neck with Ebony Fingerboard? Jack told us that i sounds very Maple... I believe the Ebony in the fingerboard will make it sound more bright than all maple..., so the canary would help to get "normal standard" and doesn't need finish  :icon_biggrin: You can add an flamed maple veneer to match the body, if you wish...

If you're into a very specific color you should buy it from showcase: same quality, you can pick the exactly body/neck you want and it's usually a few bucks cheaper  :icon_thumright:
 
NonsenseTele said:
How about Canary neck with Ebony Fingerboard? Jack told us that i sounds very Maple... I believe the Ebony in the fingerboard will make it sound more bright than all maple..., so the canary would help to get "normal standard" and doesn't need finish  :icon_biggrin: You can add an flamed maple veneer to match the body, if you wish...

If you're into a very specific color you should buy it from showcase: same quality, you can pick the exactly body/neck you want and it's usually a few bucks cheaper  :icon_thumright:

no....canary+ebony= like maple ;) but its just talking about margins. but I can always recommend canary; no finish required! feels soooo good. and its pretty
 
The canary/ebony was my first choice, but canary is not listed in the price chart. When I asked Warmoth about it they were kinda iffy about it's availability. And unfortunately there are no canary/ebony necks in the showcase with abalone dots. :(
I agree that picking the body from the showcase is the best way to ensure the ideal color; however, I was told that the only way to match a peghead veneer to a body color was to have them painted at the same time. That sort of eliminates the option of purchasing a pre-painted body.
 
there is pros/cons to both(showcase vs. ordering body/neck same time)

showcase is you know Exactly what you're goin to git.
ordering ,you might get color/grain variations you might not want.
but the chances are way better that the color will match between neck/body

and all bursting varies, not just tobacco

I believe it has NEVER been "set in stone" as to the measurement from the edge.However, if you request a particular measurement
that you desire to Warmoth , I bet They could accomodate such a request or come REALLY close . I know some bursts appeal to me more than others.
 
Why recess the floyd?  Don't do it.  It's gonna be a pain in the arse. Unless you know what your getting into, don't do it.
 
I believe he is going to have Warmoth do the recessed Floyd , I hope ! They do a fantastic job !
 
I'm gonna have Warmoth do all the  work. And  yes, I know what I'm getting into. I used to have an early 90s ESP Mirage Deluxe with a recessed Schaller FR. It was never a problem. It just makes more sense to me than having it resting on the body. If I were going to do that I'd just get a wilki with some locking tuners.
 
Hey all,
Just wanted to say that I did it. I went ahead and pulled the trigger! Thanks for all the great advice, and you'll be happy to know I followed some of it. I went with the black korina. I was also able to get the canary neck. Now, we play the waiting game. I'll get some pics up when it arrives.
I was mildly disappointed to discover that you can't get a painted peghead veneer with a canary neck (or any neck that doesn't require a finish for that matter). But I stuck with the canary anyhow. I think the feel is more than going to make up for it.
Peace,
-e
 
You're going to love the feel of the canary neck.  I just cant stop playing on it  :help:
 
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