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100 ways to apply Birchwood Tru-Oil and Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax Wax to a maple neck. Or an informed guide.

Xyz

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Just like anyone getting ready to apply Birchwood Tru-Oil and Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax to my new Warmoth maple guitar neck I plunged into the internet to find informed ways to do it. (Yes I know it voids the warranty).

Literally every list of steps, every guide on how to apply these I have read or seen are different or contradict one another.

I understand the are different methods for different types of finishes and personal preferences. But some say this way of doing it will damage the neck, some say it won't. Some say this is the right way of doing it, some say that is wildly not how it's supposed to be applied bc how the products work.

These are some of the different options I've found online:

Use zippo lighter fluid at first to clean the fretboard, don't use zippo lighter fluid or naphtha that will damage the unfinished neck (that's what I have at hand, not naphtha), best to apply directly on the neck with fingers, apply using gloves, using fingers will damage it bc of finger oils, use thin coats, apply copiously, wait two to four hours to dry before the next coat, apply one coat after another after waiting four minutes,

Apply max 3 coats, apply 15 coats, sand between coatings, don't sand between coatings, use 0000 steel wool between coatings, don't use that bc damages the neck wet sand it instead, use 400 grit, use 2000 grit minimum, wait 24 hours from the last coat to apply Birchwood Wax, apply it immediately after the last coat for it to have effect.

But I'm guessing these products work a certain way and there are proper ways of applying it.

What I sense that it's happening here is that the are lots of people that really don't know how Birchwood Tru-Oil and Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax really works doing guides step by step on how to apply the finish.

I'm going for a fast neck, but based on a classic feel. If that makes sense. Satin finish. Feeling the wood but still be able to glide my hand fast would be nice.

Can a Luthier who does this for a living or someone with true hands on experience and knowledge about this oil and wax be so kind and give an informed way of steps to apply these to my maple neck thus clearing the inconsistencies about this subject made by people who don't know how these oil and wax actually work please?
 
Well......in my experience, you don't need ro sand (or steel wool) between coats. I do 7 to 10 coats, let it cure for a few days, brush it lifhtly with 0000 steel wool, then apply a coat of the gun stock wax. The results have been excellent.
This is on necks. I don't like steel wool on bodies (plus it makes a big mess). 'Would probably use a very fine grit sandpaper instead.
 
Well......in my experience, you don't need ro sand (or steel wool) between coats. I do 7 to 10 coats, let it cure for a few days, brush it lifhtly with 0000 steel wool, then apply a coat of the gun stock wax. The results have been excellent.
This is on necks. I don't like steel wool on bodies (plus it makes a big mess). 'Would probably use a very fine grit sandpaper instead.
Thanks for sharing. Yeah this thread is strictly for necks please. Too much confusion about this topic on the net.

How much do you wait between applying coats? Do you clean "the excess" of oil after applying the coats?

Do you clean the neck with lighter fluid before starting to apply the coats?

I'm thinking of applying it with a lint-free cloath. Though I can see the benefits of applying it with fingers or with gloves.

Any other methods are welcome.
 
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No, I don't use lighter fluid, and it is completely unnecessary. I lightly sand the back with 320 grit sandpaper, blow it off with compressed air, and wipe it with a lint-free cloth. You could use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I wear nitrile gloves to prevent any dirt or skin oils contacting the bare wood.
I let the Tru-Oil dry 24 hours between coats. May not be absolutely necessary, but it gives me peace of mind, and I don't get in a hurry. It'll take me at least a week to complete the process.
 
No, I don't use lighter fluid, and it is completely unnecessary. I lightly sand the back with 320 grit sandpaper, blow it off with compressed air, and wipe it with a lint-free cloth. You could use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I wear nitrile gloves to prevent any dirt or skin oils contacting the bare wood.
I let the Tru-Oil dry 24 hours between coats. May not be absolutely necessary, but it gives me peace of mind, and I don't get in a hurry. It'll take me at least a week to complete the process.
Makes sense.

Any trouble drilling the mounting pin holes of the tuners after applying this oil?
 
Thanks.

Any other methods welcome.
I agree with @Strat Avenger to start. Any higher than 400gr and you are just burnishing the wood, so the oil is less prone to penetrate. Glove up and wipe clean, or use mineral spirits if you want to (overkill)

Where I deviate is after 3-4 coats, I simply use the tru oil to lubricate 600-1200 grit followed by 1500-2000 grit wet sand (mineral spirits) and a final 0000 wool burnish to knock the luster off. Skip that if you like a glossy finish - it’s not sticky like a cheap glossy poly. Alternatively you can go further with a cut and polish for a show-car gloss finish. I just happen to like the satin.

By that point the neck feels like a slip n slide, so a final single coat of wax is more than sufficient. No need for a buffer if you just have some lint free cloths, one to apply one to wipe off,
 
I agree with @Strat Avenger to start. Any higher than 400gr and you are just burnishing the wood, so the oil is less prone to penetrate. Glove up and wipe clean, or use mineral spirits if you want to (overkill)

Where I deviate is after 3-4 coats, I simply use the tru oil to lubricate 600-1200 grit followed by 1500-2000 grit wet sand (mineral spirits) and a final 0000 wool burnish to knock the luster off. Skip that if you like a glossy finish - it’s not sticky like a cheap glossy poly. Alternatively you can go further with a cut and polish for a show-car gloss finish. I just happen to like the satin.

By that point the neck feels like a slip n slide, so a final single coat of wax is more than sufficient. No need for a buffer if you just have some lint free cloths, one to apply one to wipe off,
Thanks, this really interests me bc I want a satin slip n' slide finish.

This is my first time applying a finish, so please bare with me.

If I understand well:

Steps:

1 - Sand neck lightly with none higher than 400 grit. (Both the back and the fretboard of the neck?)

2 - Apply 3 or 4 coats of Tru-Oil, wait 24 hours between coats.

3 - Lubricate sandpaper with Tru-Oil from 600 to 1200 grit and sand down neck. (Both the back and the fretboard of the neck?)

4 - Apply mineral spirit to sandpaper between 600 to 1200 grit and sand down neck. (Both the back and the fretboard of the neck?)

5 - Apply wool burnish with 0000 to neck. (Both the back and the fretboard of the neck?)

6 - Apply a single coat of wax. Back of the neck.

7 - Wait 24 hours and the neck is ready.

8 - Plug in and turn everything to eleven.


Please correct any step if it's wrong. (Step 8 is always right) :)

In step 4 which mineral spirits do you recommend?
 
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I agree with @Strat Avenger to start. Any higher than 400gr and you are just burnishing the wood, so the oil is less prone to penetrate. Glove up and wipe clean, or use mineral spirits if you want to (overkill)

Where I deviate is after 3-4 coats, I simply use the tru oil to lubricate 600-1200 grit followed by 1500-2000 grit wet sand (mineral spirits) and a final 0000 wool burnish to knock the luster off. Skip that if you like a glossy finish - it’s not sticky like a cheap glossy poly. Alternatively you can go further with a cut and polish for a show-car gloss finish. I just happen to like the satin.

By that point the neck feels like a slip n slide, so a final single coat of wax is more than sufficient. No need for a buffer if you just have some lint free cloths, one to apply one to wipe off,
I'm placing in the steps (Both the back and the fretboard of the neck?) bc I have seen and read so many wild ways of doing this job.


Also from what I understand from your method you're using 3 or 4 coats before you start the sanding and burnish process. So only 3 or 4 coats of Tru-Oil.
 
I never touch the fretboard face tbh. I file down the fret ends if they’re sprouted and clean that filing up to 400 grit.

My theory, and I’m certainly no expert here, is that I’m trying to get the first coats of oil to penetrate the wood more deeply, which I can’t do if it’s burnished.

Once I’ve got that down, the wet sanding process with TO as lubricant creates an “slurry” that helps burnish the neck to an extremely smooth finish.

You could totally stop here, but because I have the supplies I go all the way to a full gloss 2000grit finish before knocking it back with 0000. That’s probably redundant, but I do it anyway. Anything past 600-800 already feels like greased lightning!
 
I never touch the fretboard face tbh. I file down the fret ends if they’re sprouted and clean that filing up to 400 grit.

My theory, and I’m certainly no expert here, is that I’m trying to get the first coats of oil to penetrate the wood more deeply, which I can’t do if it’s burnished.

Once I’ve got that down, the wet sanding process with TO as lubricant creates an “slurry” that helps burnish the neck to an extremely smooth finish.

You could totally stop here, but because I have the supplies I go all the way to a full gloss 2000grit finish before knocking it back with 0000. That’s probably redundant, but I do it anyway. Anything past 600-800 already feels like greased lightning!
lol got it. Might try it soon with a cheap neck (to practice) and see how it comes out. If it feels like too much I'll "fix it" and that way I'll keep practicing.

I'm used to playing necks with like poly finishes that "lock up" your hand in that playing box so I can play and bend the strings with my hand "locked in". And do a minor strain to move up and down the neck, so a satin finish neck in one of my guitars will be a different new feel, but wanted and needed at this time.

If I see that your process is too complicated for a beginner like me I'll do a simpler finish but def will try this one in a very near future bc it sounds so good.

Thanks for sharing Hodgo!

Any other methods are welcome.
 
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