That is pretty much what I've come to. It is built really well though, so I'm going to use the thing as I would a 58. not sure where it came from, but the thing is really nice. Packaging is from the 70's most likely, based on my uncle's evaluation. He's an antiques dealer and restoration guy.
I recieved tgis microphone from an uncle today, who got it in an auction.
The thing is in mint condition, and sounds really clear!
I searched EVERYWHERE online and couldn't find anything about the company, and nothing at all about this mic. The only thing I found that could be the same company...
Yeah I know how to wire it, I'm just trying to figure out what direction the switch tip would be facing for "position 1" and so forth. I assume position 1 (neck) is with the switch pushed left, in this case?
Hey guys!
So I got my DiMarzio switch in the mail today, and I've sorta wrapped my head around how it's able to do such complex switching.
However, I'm trying to figure out which way the switch is to be oriented (based off of the diagram that I have attached).
I sketched in what I was thinking...
Yeah, I'm probably going to use this thing on every guitar from here on out.
I first heard of them when I looked into how the Music Man JP guitars had a split coil sound in the middle position, without a push pull. Now I'm probably going to buy one to go on every new guitar I get/make, hahaha...
EDIT: I don't know if anyone else is seeing the pictures upside down, but I don't know why they are... Sorry!
My killswitch and toggle switch showed up today!
The box was in questionable condition (thanks a bunch, Canada Post...) but the contents were safely wrapped in newspaper.
Both feel...
I'd rather not take out all that wood if I don't need to. It also allows me to get a bigger trem block, and since I don't pull up on the bar, it's pointless to recess it. It's easier to deck a top mount than it is a recessed as well.
Actually you can, haha. I set up non-recessed trems to rest about 1 or 2 millimetres above the body, and it gives you enough to bend a half step up, which is plenty to flutter.
Or I can crank the screws (or just set the Tremol-No to "dive only mode) and retune, and we're back on stable territory!
I think that's grat. There's times where I'll do a mockup and think "I KNOW Purple Frost doesn't look like that..." hahaha
This will be a great improvement, in my opinion.
Yeah that's what I think as well.
I was thinking of taking the pad off of one of mine next time I change strings, but I don't think it's worth it :laughing7:
So I've seen in a few videos and forums that the plastic neck plate pad is a tone killer and dulls your sustain.
I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts on this. Have you tried with and without and noticed any difference?
Personally, I prefer the look and feel of it, because it gives you a gentle...
So since I'm really indecisive, I changed the design.. (surprise!)
So I was looking around on the FU-Tone site, and kinda realized that non-recessed floyds are really cool and actually stable.
with the brass/titanium/stainless parts on one of their FU2 bridges, along with a Tremol-no, I think...
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