hi
that sounds good. around 4k. i've got to worry about s/h charges too so... i'd say 4k.
what do you recommend?
also, i will like to be able to make some neck-thru projects too, in the future. thx.
hi
i'm going to buy a CNC router machine for making fret/fingerboards as well as inlaying. i wanna know what machine i will have to buy. let me know if you've got any useful info. thanks.
yeah
the bridge plate is fine. i wasn't in a situation where i could swap them, so... i went ahead and raised the A string. it worked. while the radius of the bridge ain't no 18 or fairly close, i see a huge difference now.
due to alternating downward and upward picking continuously i wasn't...
Yes!! im actually getting lower action on the A string. i over-shimmed the fuker but still. what is your understanding of a situation like this? would you say i may wanna swap the saddles?
but it seems perfectly fine. or it's just that A string that comes up really low; or the D string too high...
ok now going by the suggestion i tried to match it up accordingly
why is it that the A or the 5th string comes always lower than the the 6th string. so i had to put some more shims UNDER THAT saddle. do you know what i mean?
i know the radius of the bridge or saddles is a good 10". i can...
well buddy, pal, didn't this 'gregg' also say
"For Warmoth compound necks, use the 18" row for radius at bridge to find out what to add. For some other compound neck, you'll need to estimate or calculate your fretboard radius at the bridge ( the radius flattens as you get closer to the bridge...
wow now considering the length of the guitar at 25.5, i think it's more than 18. id say 20" then.
now what does this mean, a 10" shim or a 16" shim? are we talking about their thicknesses?
hi
i have a question relative to this topic
i have a 12 to 16 CR neck
with an original FR installed which i would think goes at 10" radius
what do i have to do to match it up with the fretboard?
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