BigSteve22
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So, I decided to use a Zero-Glide nut on my Blackbird Telecaster. I had a zero fret on a Gretsch, many years ago, and It was a dream to play. I wanted to try to get that feeling again, philosophically as well as physically.
Like a traditional zero fret set up, Zero-Glide nuts have two parts: A fret and a spreader. They are available in many configurations to "fit" most instruments. I say "fit", because like all nuts, some fitting is necessary. The spreader needs to be filed down both to length and thickness, and the fret needs to be cut to length and end dressed.
The pre-slotted Fender replacement nut I bought came with 4, color coded frets: .035", .039", .043", and .051" These seem pretty small considering the Jumbo fret wire a lot of members use, but since I prefer SS6230 frets, (043"H x .080"W), it wasn't a problem for me. However, if you are a 6100 fan, (.058") you may want to reconsider.
Additionally, the supplied frets are a specialized variety, having an offset, barb-less, tang to bring the crown directly over the edge of the nut slot, thus keeping the break point the same as if you were using a traditional nut. (I tried using a piece of .047" standard s/s fret wire, graciously supplied by our own KG, and after flattening the barbs I was able to position it in the spreader, and tune up. I'm not sure if it was just my imagination or not, but I was not 100% happy with the intonation results. But it was pretty darned close, and for someone less persnickety than myself, it probably would have been fine.)
Initially, I was unable to use the .043" fret, the same size as the frets on the fret board, as recommended. I tried during setup with my new handy-dandy jig, but I couldn't get it to play right. (More on this later.) There was also considerable buzzing at the nut, even with staggered tuners, because the 1st and 2nd strings were not held tightly against the fret. After failing in my attempt to use a standard .043" fret, I settled in on the .051". At least for a while.
Using the .051" my initial set up was .060" at the 12th. Right around Fender's recommended number, but too high for me. After several rounds of truss rod adjustments, (to change the relief), waiting for the neck to settle in, re-intonations, and saddle height adjustments, I was able to get things down to around .045"~.047" at the 12th fret on the 6th string. To me, acceptable, but not optimal.
A few days ago I decided to try the .043" again. During my attempt to use the .047" standard fret, I installed a Mastery string tree, so I knew the fret buzz at the nut would not be a problem this time around. I trimmed the .043" to length and dressed the ends with a grinding disk on my Dremmel. After positioning the fret I tuned up and adjusted the saddle height. The action at the 12th fret on the 6th strings now reads .040", and I set the same measurement across the board. I'm very happy with this.
Final thoughts:
1) Although the Zero-Glide is much easier to install and adjust than a standard nut, it's not exactly "drop-in". Things still need to be fitted. But for someone who does not have the specialized tools to properly fit a standard nut, it works.
2) Unlike a standard nut, if you go too low, you CAN go back, just install a larger fret.
3) Even with staggered tuners, I still needed a string tree, as there was not enough break angle over the zero fret without it. Hipshot staggered tuners seem to stand a little taller at the first and second strings than Gotoh, so your results may vary.
4) It's important to glue the spreader in place first. This gives you a stable platform for playing with the different fret sizes. Looking back, this may have been why I couldn't get the .043" fret to play right the first time around.
5) I don't, and never have, subscribed to the notion that a zero fret is an indication of lower quality instrument. To the contrary, the old Gretsch Anniversary model I referred to above was one of the best guitars I ever played.
6) That being said, I have nothing but respect for those who can properly hand file and finish a standard nut. The Jazzy neck that Cagey did for me is an absolute joy to play.
Like a traditional zero fret set up, Zero-Glide nuts have two parts: A fret and a spreader. They are available in many configurations to "fit" most instruments. I say "fit", because like all nuts, some fitting is necessary. The spreader needs to be filed down both to length and thickness, and the fret needs to be cut to length and end dressed.
The pre-slotted Fender replacement nut I bought came with 4, color coded frets: .035", .039", .043", and .051" These seem pretty small considering the Jumbo fret wire a lot of members use, but since I prefer SS6230 frets, (043"H x .080"W), it wasn't a problem for me. However, if you are a 6100 fan, (.058") you may want to reconsider.
Additionally, the supplied frets are a specialized variety, having an offset, barb-less, tang to bring the crown directly over the edge of the nut slot, thus keeping the break point the same as if you were using a traditional nut. (I tried using a piece of .047" standard s/s fret wire, graciously supplied by our own KG, and after flattening the barbs I was able to position it in the spreader, and tune up. I'm not sure if it was just my imagination or not, but I was not 100% happy with the intonation results. But it was pretty darned close, and for someone less persnickety than myself, it probably would have been fine.)
Initially, I was unable to use the .043" fret, the same size as the frets on the fret board, as recommended. I tried during setup with my new handy-dandy jig, but I couldn't get it to play right. (More on this later.) There was also considerable buzzing at the nut, even with staggered tuners, because the 1st and 2nd strings were not held tightly against the fret. After failing in my attempt to use a standard .043" fret, I settled in on the .051". At least for a while.
Using the .051" my initial set up was .060" at the 12th. Right around Fender's recommended number, but too high for me. After several rounds of truss rod adjustments, (to change the relief), waiting for the neck to settle in, re-intonations, and saddle height adjustments, I was able to get things down to around .045"~.047" at the 12th fret on the 6th string. To me, acceptable, but not optimal.
A few days ago I decided to try the .043" again. During my attempt to use the .047" standard fret, I installed a Mastery string tree, so I knew the fret buzz at the nut would not be a problem this time around. I trimmed the .043" to length and dressed the ends with a grinding disk on my Dremmel. After positioning the fret I tuned up and adjusted the saddle height. The action at the 12th fret on the 6th strings now reads .040", and I set the same measurement across the board. I'm very happy with this.
Final thoughts:
1) Although the Zero-Glide is much easier to install and adjust than a standard nut, it's not exactly "drop-in". Things still need to be fitted. But for someone who does not have the specialized tools to properly fit a standard nut, it works.
2) Unlike a standard nut, if you go too low, you CAN go back, just install a larger fret.
3) Even with staggered tuners, I still needed a string tree, as there was not enough break angle over the zero fret without it. Hipshot staggered tuners seem to stand a little taller at the first and second strings than Gotoh, so your results may vary.
4) It's important to glue the spreader in place first. This gives you a stable platform for playing with the different fret sizes. Looking back, this may have been why I couldn't get the .043" fret to play right the first time around.
5) I don't, and never have, subscribed to the notion that a zero fret is an indication of lower quality instrument. To the contrary, the old Gretsch Anniversary model I referred to above was one of the best guitars I ever played.
6) That being said, I have nothing but respect for those who can properly hand file and finish a standard nut. The Jazzy neck that Cagey did for me is an absolute joy to play.
