What to look for in a spray setup?

[BigBeard]

Here is something I need educated on.....

What to look for in a good spray gun setup.

And what I need as far as my compressor setup.  I have a compressor, I think its 8 or 10 HP with an 80 gallon tank, it's as tall as I am.  It runs what 125 max PSI.  It will run an impact gun and grinders all day, nail guns and tires etc.  That is why I bought it, for working on my cars and my bikes.  I have a water separator on it's output.  Is that enough?  I know the compressor is big enough to paint and spray poly or nitro, but what else do I need?  I usually run 1/2" air hose for my tools, instead of 3/8", but I do have 3/8" hose here so I can fill up a tire out on the street.  I have about 150' of hose.  I also have a regulator on one of my air outputs.  Now am I gonna need a dedicated spraying hose?  Or can I use the hoses I have now without fear of water  or compressor oil in the hose?  I'll admit I'm a little lazy about draining the compressor of accumulated water. 

And as far as a spray gun, I know you can get them for as little as $20 bucks, but I know better.  Am I looking for one of those high volume low pressure setups? 

I mean, I honestly don't know.  I always used to use wipe on zar polyurethane, then I switched to rattle can, which honestly I don't like, it dries too rough for my tastes, I think I sand away more than I put on.  What about thinners and stuff.  Will I have to thin everything down?

Also I would like to be able to spray stains,  I am betting that with some PSI behind the stain, you can get some really intense color penetration.... meaning getting the stain further into the wood than just wiping it on and letting it soak in.

I have always wanted a spray setup, just never had the money.  And I never really wanted to get into painting cars or automotive finishes, I know a guy who does that for me, but he is hush hush on his technique.  He is into that 'real flame' painting and he does 'real snakes' also.  He did a bike for a guy you would swear there was a copperhead sitting on his gas tank.  anyway that's not the point.  I've asked him before if I could watch him work sometime, and his answer was flat out no.  Kind of suprised me, we are pretty good buddies, but he says his technique and setup is secret.  He said if someone watched him set up his stuff and work, they could do it, because it's that easy.  I don't believe a word of that, but other guys I've talked to about his work that know him too, all say he says the same thing.  There has to be a touch or some artistry behind using a spray gun....?

So, I'm putting it up here, let me know which way to go so when I win the lottery or ever get back to a day job I can get something going.  I like to learn how to use new tools. 

I know I'll need a respirator of some kind, and I hear the OSHA approved ones aren't beard friendly, something about the seal and the hair... I don't forsee myself ever spraying for more than 10 or 15 minutes at a time.  I know I need something to keep the poly out of my airbags, but I'm not shaving any time soon to spray a little polyurethane.  And I know a dust mask won't cut it either.  So I have to consider that.

Then I have to consider a spray booth, etc etc but that is for another thread on another day.....

I know there are some guys here that really know their stuff when it comes to this, I don't.  So I'd like some education from those who spray already. 

Thanks guys....

 

[Cagey]

I used to shoot cars about 100 years ago, and the main thing I'd offer is that you have a dryer and a filter on the line, and use a dedicated line. 3/8" hose is plenty. You can go crazy with guns, but I don't think you need to. Most sprayers will let you adjust the fan, volume and air flow, which gets you most of the way there. After that, it's mostly technique.

As far as material, every one is different as far as how it's thinned, or whether it needs any other kind of additive like a catalyst. Clean-up can be different, too, and you need to be slavish about that. Leave epoxy or catalyzed enamel in the gun long enough to cure, and you may as well toss the gun.

Speaking of multi-part paints, some of them are really toxic. When they say "use a respirator", it's not a suggestion. On the plus side, with catalyzed paints, they don't usually "dry" in the traditional sense, they cure, and it happens surprisingly fast. When you first shoot it, it'll look orange-peely like you used a rattle can, but within a minute or so it'll flow out on the surface and look like wet glass. 15 minutes later, it's hard to the touch (although you shouldn't handle it). That's nice because once you shoot, you're pretty much done. No more sanding/buffing. The other thing is it cuts down on your spray booth requirements, because the finish isn't susceptible to dust or insects for very long.

 

[Tonar8352]

The first thing I suggest is to get the Stew Mac video Spray Finishing Basics. That goes over a lot on your setup.

Air pressure is not as important as CFM for your compressor but it sound to me like you have it covered if you are driving air-powered tools.  My compressor is 12.4 CFM and it delivers plenty of air to the gun even when I’m shooting sunbursts.

I use 3/8” air line that goes to a moister trap and then to the gun.  I also use a small moister filter at the gun, which I get at the automotive paint store as a final precaution to prevent moister from getting to the finish.  They look like a small black tennis ball.

I use a Binks respirator.  I have a full-face mask because of my goatee but I can’t stand it so I just us a regular spray mask rated for lacquers.  Go to a real paint store and they can help you out, stay away from places like Home Depot etc.

My gun is an Iwata LPH 400.  I have 2 different fluid and needle setups for it.  One is for very fine materials like stains and lacquers and the other for more viscous materials.  I only use the really fine fluid and needle.  They both use the same air cap so that remains the same.  Iwata also makes an air cap made specifically for shooting metallic but I will not use metallic in this gun. Ebay has several of them; they are not cheap but are top of the line.

Hope that helps