croquet hoop
Senior Member
- Messages
- 443
Hi guys,
I have just received a Warmoth neck for a Strat project and I have a few questions about it. When I received it I was struck by the finish, or perceived lack thereof: I thought there was none, as the wood felt raw, but after a search on this board I found about the red dot under the heel that showed that the neck was actually finished. Right, so the satin finish is almost matt, and clear is clear — the maple is nearly white. Which is not a bad thing per se, except that I now think it's a pity that the figure of the wood is not brought out more.
So, here are my two questions:
1. The clear satin finish clearly needs some more work — it is obviously made to protect the wood, not to enhance it. The finish seems uneven and there are visible sanding marks. Here is a picture to show you — I had to take it against the light so that the camera could capture the marks:
From what you can see, what would you suggest? Shall I just sand it lightly with 600-800-1000-and so on (or maybe just steel wool straightaway) to remove the marks and finish the work, or do you think it needs a few more coats? I do not have nitro on hand, so is there an alternative that would be compatible with the existing finish, or should I strictly get nitro finish?
2. Regarding the figure of the wood and considering the rough finishing work, I was thinking about refinishing it entirely: dyeing then sanding the wood to bring out the figure and give it a bit more warmth (or maybe just using denatured alcohol) then a few coats to protect the neck, aiming for a satin finish that would be smooth to play.
From my understanding, I need first to remove the current finish before I can dye the wood to make the grain pop out; the problem is that I would like the color/finish to be even, and so I'll have to refinish the fingerboard too. Is there a way to refinish the whole neck as described without touching the frets (I believe most re-finishings on one-piece maple necks are made before a refret) or is it going to be too difficult an endeavour ? (I do not intend to tinker with the fretwork)
I have just received a Warmoth neck for a Strat project and I have a few questions about it. When I received it I was struck by the finish, or perceived lack thereof: I thought there was none, as the wood felt raw, but after a search on this board I found about the red dot under the heel that showed that the neck was actually finished. Right, so the satin finish is almost matt, and clear is clear — the maple is nearly white. Which is not a bad thing per se, except that I now think it's a pity that the figure of the wood is not brought out more.
So, here are my two questions:
1. The clear satin finish clearly needs some more work — it is obviously made to protect the wood, not to enhance it. The finish seems uneven and there are visible sanding marks. Here is a picture to show you — I had to take it against the light so that the camera could capture the marks:
From what you can see, what would you suggest? Shall I just sand it lightly with 600-800-1000-and so on (or maybe just steel wool straightaway) to remove the marks and finish the work, or do you think it needs a few more coats? I do not have nitro on hand, so is there an alternative that would be compatible with the existing finish, or should I strictly get nitro finish?
2. Regarding the figure of the wood and considering the rough finishing work, I was thinking about refinishing it entirely: dyeing then sanding the wood to bring out the figure and give it a bit more warmth (or maybe just using denatured alcohol) then a few coats to protect the neck, aiming for a satin finish that would be smooth to play.
From my understanding, I need first to remove the current finish before I can dye the wood to make the grain pop out; the problem is that I would like the color/finish to be even, and so I'll have to refinish the fingerboard too. Is there a way to refinish the whole neck as described without touching the frets (I believe most re-finishings on one-piece maple necks are made before a refret) or is it going to be too difficult an endeavour ? (I do not intend to tinker with the fretwork)