Tung Question.
- Thread starter rapfohl09
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dmraco
Master Member
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enough coats of a tung oil will give a wet look. However the stuff I am talking about is not PURE tung oil. I have used the minwax stuff on furniture and it will give a nice shiny coat after about 3 applications. I would not recomend for a guitar because it is not durable.
Laquer is shiny ( if you use gloss or semi) and will last much longer. A good spray poly works well to and is easy. WARMOTH uses poly and I used it on my last build. Here is a photo of the shine from Minwax gloss poly, not yet buffed.
Laquer is shiny ( if you use gloss or semi) and will last much longer. A good spray poly works well to and is easy. WARMOTH uses poly and I used it on my last build. Here is a photo of the shine from Minwax gloss poly, not yet buffed.
dbw said:
Haha yeah thats what I was thinking, just wondering if I could save a dollar or two. I want to keep doing things myself, but I want qaulity work on my guitar. I think im going to have to practice on a bunch of scrap wood, as I dont have any experiance with spraying, only oils and stains.
Keyser Soze
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Pure tung will not give the wet look.
Wet look requires some sort of finish that will build to a surface film that can be rubbed out and polished to a gloss finish.
The easiest oil finish that can do this is probably Tru-oil, or any similar variant.
Lacquer isn't just clear coat, it is also available in translucent or opaque pigments (technically speaking lacquer is merely an evaporating solvent vehicle and whatever finish material or paint pigment that is dissolved or suspended in it.)
Wet look requires some sort of finish that will build to a surface film that can be rubbed out and polished to a gloss finish.
The easiest oil finish that can do this is probably Tru-oil, or any similar variant.
Lacquer isn't just clear coat, it is also available in translucent or opaque pigments (technically speaking lacquer is merely an evaporating solvent vehicle and whatever finish material or paint pigment that is dissolved or suspended in it.)
Hey dmraco, what did you use for an applicator on that minwax wipe-on poly, and how did you hang it? I've done mine now, and I've got several little runs in the clear, which I hate, and are not sanding out very well at all. I'm thinking that I won't use the stuff for my next body unless I can figure out how to fix my mistakes.
dmraco
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tfarny said:
I used Minwax spray poly....gloss. When on like glass. I let it cure for about 30 minutes between coats. I did not hand but kept it level and flipped it to do the sides.
I did use a small painting sponge to "help" level the poly on some areas where the grain was soaking in more than others on the flame maple. This was only during the 1st few applications. Once I depleted my 1st can, I let dry 3-4 days. Sanded with some 600 grit and re-shot with another 3-4 coats. that is what you are seeing there.
