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Truss rod access rout for bass

mgsb38

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Hi all,

I'm working out possible specs for a Warmoth P bass order (body + neck), and the one thing I'm having trouble deciding on is whether or not to have a truss rod access rout in the body.  The neck will be 20 frets and I don't plan on installing a pickguard (want to see as much wood grain as possible, control cavity will be rear routed), so the truss rod rout would be pretty visible.  On the other hand, not including the rout would make truss rod adjustments more of a pain.  I spoke with someone at Warmoth, and he said the necks are so stable that I probably won't have to adjust the truss rod that much anyway (apart from some initial setup), so I could probably just go without the rout.

Any Warmoth bass owners out there who don't have easy truss rod access?  Any regrets?  Thanks for any advice you can offer.
 
Why would you only want 20 frets? :icon_scratch:

If you don't want to see the route, just omit it. (I didn't know that was even an option?)
It's not a big deal to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, that's what you have to do with most Fenders anyways.
 
line6man said:
Why would you only want 20 frets? :icon_scratch:

Come on dude. You should know by now that your style of playing isn't how most bass players use their instrument. Don't be such a snob about it. And if you don't intend to, it does come across like that.

Mine has 20 and it's fine. And it sure looks better than having an overhang.
 
line6man said:
Why would you only want 20 frets? :icon_scratch:

Mainly for aesthetic reasons.  I'm used to the standard 20 fret necks of Fender basses, and the overhang doesn't appeal to me as much, though it would obviously cover up more of the truss rod rout.

I was told that I could order the body without the rout by just making a note of it on the order form.

It's not a big deal to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, that's what you have to do with most Fenders anyways.

I hadn't thought about it, but you're right.  And anyone who orders a Warmoth neck for a Fender bass that originally had the truss rod adjustment at the headstock would have the same issue, and I assume not everyone carves an access rout in the body.

Have any of you had to do much adjusting of your Warmoth necks?  If they're as solid as I've heard, then it's a non-issue for me.
 
I only have 4 of them, but they're so stable I never adjust them past the initial setup. That's with me living in Michigan, where the temperature and humidity vary quite a bit. Warmoth makes good parts; you can trust their stuff.
 
If I'm honest, I don't even know if the truss rod is capable of moving my wenge/mac. ebony bass neck; it's pretty loose now and there's absolutely no relief in the neck.
 
Thanks for the responses.  I'm thinking that I'll be able to do without the rout.  Now on to more important issues, like where to find the money to pay for the damn thing!

Thanks again for the help.
 
I'd recommend the route; it makes initial setup and any subsequent adjustments a LOT easier. I dye mine black or a suitable darker color to match the finish.
 
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