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Tru Oil and Warmoth Sealer

whitebison66

Hero Member
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If I Tru-Oil a Warmoth neck, can I just apply it over the factory sealer or do I need to do something additional?

Thanks in advance!
 
Are you sure they put a sealer on? I thought raw necks were just that - raw.
 
Non-exotic necks leave the factory sealed. I've had to strip it off to stain a neck before. It provides stability during shipping through different climates.
 
I know the necks are sealed... I believe they ALL are sealed, exotic or not. 

That is - I could smell it on the mahogany, maple and even goncalo necks I've gotten.  The goncalo and mahogany ended up getting stained medium brown, no issue experienced on this end with the sealer, but depending on the stain... who knows
 
Last maple neck that I got from Warmoth I just gave it a very light sanding with 400grit and then tru-oiled with no problems.
 
Thanks for the response. Another quick question: I notice 2 different recommendations for the final finish - some recommend lemon oil, and birchwood casey recommends their wax.  Have you tried these?
 
I don't know if you mean the fretboard, the back, or both, but here's what I have.

I have a 1 piece maple neck, with the skunk stripe.

I used the birchwood casey wax ontop of the tru-oil, and while I liked it at first, I found myself using 0000 steel wool to buff up the back of the neck, more than likely scraping a good portion of the wax off.

I didn't put ANY wax on the fretboard, and I only put enough Tru-oil on it so there wasn't a noticible difference in color between the front and the back.

I'm guessing if you're using Tru-Oil, you wanted a "woody" feel to the neck. If that's the case, skip the wax.
 
Sorry - missed the all maple bit.  I was thinking raw fretboard and tru-oiled back.

Thanks for the feedback
 
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