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To Finish or Not To Finish...

NovasScootYa

Junior Member
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After years of being a stickler for not applying a finish to most exotic neck woods I've concluded applying around 6 coats of lacquer to most exotic wood necks is almost as necessary as having to apply a finish to maple...
The added thickness of the finish coat makes the neck feel fuller and play better especially for optional profiles and a neck finish adds to tone. The dimensions of exotic wood necks that require no finish are the same dimensions as maple necks which are intended to be finished with polyurethane, etc. Likewise the thickness of the finish applied to a body is also taken into account as the finish coat can raise the bridge height .010 inch. In the case of low end Fender bodies the finish can be .020" plus...Yes a bit of the slick feel of an unfinished neck will be gone but in time it'll be better than ever.
Another reason to apply a finish to an exotic wood neck is most exotic woods will contract and expand with weather changes although not as much as maple.
Finally another reason to apply a finish to most exotic wood necks is it elevates the problem of finishing just the face of the headstock in order to protect a decal.
 
You forgot the other reason to apply a finish to an exotic neck:  To watch a substantial fraction of the population on this board go batsh!t when they read your post.  I'm makin' popcorn...

 
I've played finished necks and I've played raw necks. In my book, there is no going back.

If I wanted a thicker neck, I would order a different profile. And dealing with seasonal adjustments is well worth it, for the luxury of having a silky smooth surface to play on.
 
:doh:


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line6man said:
I've played finished necks and I've played raw necks. In my book, there is no going back.

If I wanted a thicker neck, I would order a different profile. And dealing with seasonal adjustments is well worth it, for the luxury of having a silky smooth surface to play on.
Surely you're not forgetting some exotic woods are porous and develop a bit of traction over time? I hope not.  Frankly it takes a heck of a lot of tricks to make a Warmoth neck feel luxurious and exotic wood is the least amongst them.
There is a vast difference between the thickness of neck profiles and an applied finish.  Let's say the overall thickness of a cured lacquer finish is around .007 inch. That adds a thickness of .007" to each side of the neck giving an approximate .014" increase in neck width.
Exotic wood necks, no matter the profile, have the same dimensions as neck woods that are intended to have an applied finish therefore the thickness of a finish is required to make a '59 Roundback feel like a '59 Roundback, etc.
 
UH MUH GUH!  Call me a conspiracy theorist, but I think this post was intentionally created to 'stir the pot'.  I'd like to respond to a few of the assertions, but I haven't the time.... I'm smack in the middle of applying the third coat of wipe-on poly to some pau ferro.

PS-- I think the difference in thickness is more "half-vast" than vast...
 
telecutie said:
UH MUH GUH!  Call me a conspiracy theorist, but I think this post was intentionally created to 'stir the pot'.  I'd like to respond to a few of the assertions, but I haven't the time.... I'm smack in the middle of applying the third coat of wipe-on poly to some pau ferro.

PS-- I think the difference in thickness is more "half-vast" than vast...

Hehe! My thoughts exactly. Sounds troll-ish. Next thing you know, we'll be asked to consider thermal expansion and/or barometric pressure.
 
I always apply shellac at the very least ( body and neck) , it  seals the wood well and after sanding to 600 grit  it buffs very smooth for those that want a "natural " feel .  It takes lacquer as a top coat for those that prefer a high gloss finish.
 
Why would you even want an exotic wood if you're planning on finishing it? Why not just get Maple and stain to the color you want, then finish over the top of that? Or stain the finish, a la the Vintage Tint?

What I mean is this: We all compare tone woods, especially neck woods, to what? Maple for brightness and Mahogany for warmth. If you know you're going to apply a finish, why not start with those and stain/color/paint? Just curious...
 
telecutie said:
.... I'm smack in the middle of applying the third coat of wipe-on poly to some pau ferro.

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I'm just glad it's yours and not mine. 

Here's all you need to do ...... http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19901.0
 
I ain't putting no poly on no pau ferro!

"That's a joke son.  You're built too close to the ground... The fast ones keep going right over your head."
--Foghorn Leghorn
 
I've always liked the idea of putting a clear UV-filtering gloss over some bright purpleheart, to stop it going brown over time and to bring out the colour.

Some of the exotics still do require a finish, eg Korina. Perhaps you want the look of an exotic and the feel of a finish. I love how upset people here get by the idea of a finish on something that doesn't technically need it. Nobody gets anywhere near as het up about leaving a maple neck raw.
 
NovasScootYa said:
Surely you're not forgetting some exotic woods are porous and develop a bit of traction over time? I hope not.

Sandpaper. 'Nuff said.

NovasScootYa said:
Frankly it takes a heck of a lot of tricks to make a Warmoth neck feel luxurious and exotic wood is the least amongst them.

:doh: Why are you even here, if you don't like Warmoth's necks?
 
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