Those of you who have built a cab before...

Justinginn

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...any tips, suggestions, webpages that helped you, complete walkthroughs?  :laughing7: Basically gear is pretty expensive over here and now that airlines are clamping down on what you can bring, there's no way I can get a cab over here so I wanna build one here (Budapest,  Hungary). It can't be that hard... just need some wood... glue, tolex, eh? I'm planning on swapping out the speaker in my amp (Celestion 30) with one of the new eminence variable-effeciency speakers (the reignmaker) and drop the Celestion 30 in the new cab. Then I might go head and buy a cheap epiphone head to mod and have as an extra amp. I think I'd like this cab to be closed back because my combo's openback and I'm missing some thump. Any suggestions or whatever would be sweet. I'm not in the states 'till this summer so I have 'till then to figure out what I want/need.
 
When CBS took over Fender, they went from finger joint to semi mortised lap joint.  That lap joint (not to be confused with a lap dance joint) is ok, especially when you can give it some inner reinformcement.  For the baffle... they went from a floating on strips to set into a groove.  This was done to add strength on the combo cabinets.  For speaker cabinets... a continuous strip inside, to which the baffle can be mounted would be ok.  On the back... a simple inset route.  You have to decide if you want a closed or open back cabinet.  Fender used an inner baffle, set at an angle, for their closed back cabinets.

Depth should be, as deep as you can make it.  Ten inches on a medium cabinet isn't too bad - and wood is easily available.  Having a "too spacious" cabinet is not a bad thing - within reason.
 
There's no shortage of periodicals, books, and sites on the net that will allow you to build a cab for your desired sound  :dontknow:
 
Yeah figured I'd just use this as my preferred resource...  :icon_biggrin: Ya know, in case anyone's got a favorite site/tip they're DYING to share.  :binkybaby:
 
It's a subjective topic, and while one may benefit from ideas passed around...*I* would perform my own due diligence  :guitaristgif:
 
Yeah a lot of stuff I'm reading is saying the size isn't that big of a deal... bigger maybe being better. I think I can put a cab together so if there's not much rocket science, this should turn out great without a whole bunch of theory behind it.
 
Size matters...

More to the point - depth seems to matter a lot.  The shallow 2x15 Fender cabinet they had in about 70'ish and later was no match for the slightly bigger, yet 25 percent deeper 2x15 original "Dual Showman" cabinet.  Just no match for the tone you'd get, even though equipped with the same speakers (usually D130(f) JBL).

Also, the baffle matters.  Like neck wood... you can get a stiff baffle, or a resonant one.  Totally different tone.  Now you get into things like thickness, material, # of plies if plywood, how its mounted and where... I know that the 5/8 plywood sounds totally different from the 3/4 mdo they used back in the day.  Free floating, or semi floating baffles... vs totally affixed on all edges - dado'd into place.

This stuff matters.  Can you predict it?  Only if more or less copying another cabinet, using the same speakers.  You can say, ok that one was a bit muddy so if I use a thcker stiffer baffle, it might brighten it a bit.  Sort of like making general comparisons with guitars based on neck wood and pickups.
 
depends on the design but size always matters some.

open back creates a "dipole" effect, the sound comes out in two directions but will travel around the baffle and will cancel each other out, the lower the frequency the more cancellation, the bigger/deaper the cab the lower the frequency cut off point is, ie. more bass. the rolloff is slow and the overall tone is more natural sounding do to little loading of the speakers and cab

sealed creates an "infinite baffle" so the lowend cutoff is based on other parameters, if designed right sealed will always have more bass than open back. the air in the box becomes a damper to the cone and along with the spyder and surround is a part of what suspends the cone. the box becomes a part of the resonant system and will have a large impact on the sound especially if it is too small. if the box is too small you get a spike in the response just before the rolloff and the rolloff is higher in frequency, you get a resonance that can be overbearing and a lack of bass below that. in a guitar application bigger is generally better, a perfect size will give the best bass but guitar speakers are suitable for free air mounting and this type of tuning may cause them to get hot do to a more reactive load drawing more amps from the amp, hot windings are more likely to blow and color the sound in negative ways.

ported can give the most bass and highest efficiencies  :headbang1:
but can color the sound the most, are harder to design, the speakers must be suitable for such a cab, require more work, well that's enough negatives for now. there are generalizations that say sealed is tighter and ported is looser sounding, well there are loose sounding sealed cabs and tight sounding ported ones. the speaker moves the air in the cab and that moves the air in the port, at some frequencies the port does very little, at some the air in the cab must compress or expand before the air in the port moves, at the right frequency the air in the port moves in phase with the speaker cone creating greater amounts of compression to the air. the speaker does more work and the port puts out a lot of sound.
the box size, the port diameter, the speaker, the port length, the port shape, the box shape, baffle stiffness, stuffing in the box, air density and air pressure, turbulence in the port, will all have some effect on the sound. this is the easiest to mess up, don't try unless you are easy to please or you have a lot of time to try things to get it right, design software exists for the dimension of the box but might not be right for an instrument. the math is really for stereo speakers or subwoofers and drivers designed for ported application. using the same formulas on free air speakers might give a box that is impractically large or small, ports that are impossibly long or short or just plain sound bad.
 
Yeah I definitely won't be going for a ported cab, though it sounds like something I've gotta do before I die.  :icon_jokercolor: I think I'll be going for a pretty basic sealed design, maybe even copying someone else's cab that works well. Thanks for your tips and comments, everyone. I'm off to more google searches.  :eek:ccasion14:
 
=CB= said:
Size matters...

More to the point - depth seems to matter a lot.  The shallow 2x15 Fender cabinet they had in about 70'ish and later was no match for the slightly bigger, yet 25 percent deeper 2x15 original "Dual Showman" cabinet.  Just no match for the tone you'd get, even though equipped with the same speakers (usually D130(f) JBL).

Also, the baffle matters.  Like neck wood... you can get a stiff baffle, or a resonant one.  Totally different tone.  Now you get into things like thickness, material, # of plies if plywood, how its mounted and where... I know that the 5/8 plywood sounds totally different from the 3/4 mdo they used back in the day.  Free floating, or semi floating baffles... vs totally affixed on all edges - dado'd into place.

I recently built a cabinet where I went deep, and it had a profound effect on the tone and frequency response of the thing. It's just a 1x12, but it's a beastie little thing...

IMG_0322.JPG

I did the dual-dado joints with cleats, all glued and screwed, rather than finger joints, inset the front and back panels (also glued and screwed), used 9 ply 3/4" void-free birch, covered it with ABS, and obviously reinforced the edges and corners with extruded aluminum and steel. I put the latches for the cover on the cover, so they wouldn't vibrate on the enclosure when it was open and set up to play. There are feet underneath so it's stackable (it's sister cabinet is currently in-process) once the plug-in casters are removed. The speaker is currently WGS's version of a Celestion Vintage 30, which they call a "Veteran 30" you can read up on at http://warehousespeakers.com/proddetail.php?prod=veteran30_12. This thing romps! It has all the tone and definition you'd expect from a V30, with the chunky low end you'd expect from a 4x12.

Fits nicely beneath the dreaded rack, too...

IMG_0317.JPG

The rack and speaker boxes are actually the same size - that picture is shot from a high angle. The handles on the speaker cab are set forward to compensate for the weight of the speaker and the front cover when it's on, so it balances right.
 
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