Thinlines with Bigsbys

[rightintheface]

so i tried a search on this but couldn't come up with a definitive answer: can i install a B5 bigsby onto my alder/alder thinline, even though it has the cavity behind the bridge section?

if i "can't", is it more because there is a RISK of something going wrong (ie, the screws ripping out) or is it DEFINITELY going to go wrong.

the lam top is pretty thick, so i can't see how it would be that much of a risk  :icon_scratch: however, i am new to bigsbys.

let me know if im a complete idiot... but surely a four-screw retro-fitting bigsby wouldnt exert THAT much pressure to pull it out of the lamtop?? :dontknow:

 

[NLD09]

I'm not sure any of us can give you a definitive answer. Warmoth is pretty custom as it is so experience is already pretty limited. I think the most you'll be able to get are the facts and dimensions of the cutout under the bridge, and if you're lucky CB or one of the other tele enthusiasts on the board might have tried it.

 

[bbl4ck]

Use a Vibramate mounting bracket and you won't need to drill any additional holes in your Thinline...

http://www.vibramate.com/vibramate-v5.html

I had a custom Vibramate designed for my V and it works great.  Additionally, if you ever want to remove your Bigsby, it can be easily done without damage.
:rock-on:

 

[Unwound G]

If you want to put a Bigsby B5 on a Tele Thinline, make sure it does not have a rear cavity behind the bridge.  The mounting screws do take some stress and continuous usage may pull the screws out of the hollow section over time.  What you need is a B16

http://www.google.com.my/imglanding?q=bigsby%20B16&imgurl=http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e323/RomanSonnleitner/rwtelewhole.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php%3Ftopic%3D2382.0&h=364&w=800&sz=146&tbnid=NasFoQDlnwOu7M:&tbnh=65&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbigsby%2BB16&hl=en&usg=__duj8X61hx3wiucvzUCU9oB2MU7s=&ei=ewJnS_KiEYuTkAXI8vDrDw&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=5&ct=image&ved=0CCEQ9QEwBA&start=0#tbnid=NasFoQDlnwOu7M&start=1

 

[rightintheface]

wow black dog that vibramate is a brilliant idea!!!!! no extra holes and everything, works off the stoptail.

BRILLIANT

definitely my next investment. and the stoptail studs should be able to easily take the stress, yeah? unfortunately i can't use the b-16 as i have a humbucker in the bridge! its a super tele.

 

[bbl4ck]

wow black dog that vibramate is a brilliant idea!!!!! no extra holes and everything, works off the stoptail.

BRILLIANT

definitely my next investment. and the stoptail studs should be able to easily take the stress, yeah? unfortunately i can't use the b-16 as i have a humbucker in the bridge! its a super tele.

Good luck and how about some pics when you get the Bigsby set-up!
:rock-on:

 

[rightintheface]

anyone know how well the bigsby copies perform? there are some made in germany, no name ones on ebay. should i steer clear?

 

[blue313]

If you're planning on a getting a Vibramate you can't use a Bigsby copy, the screws won't line up.  You may be able to have a machine shop make you one.  

I've had no real issues with the B5 and Vibramate combo.  It's such a killer option, plus it adds weight to the butt of the axe to help out with balance issues.

 

[-CB-]

BRILLIANT

Yah, but heed the warnings in that thread about body size.  It seems there is considerable difference between Fender, W and that un-named other mfgr.

 

[-CB-]

You want Bigsby on a Tele....

This is THE page to look at

 

[-CB-]

A little research here....

There's a B5 on a Tele with standard bridge plate.  Notice the screws are in line with the edges of the plate.  The upper (low E) B5 screw is about the same distance from pickup pole to bridge screw as from bridge screw to B5 screw.  The lower one is only an inch or so behind the bridge screw.

A little overlay using the pictures at the W site.... and two dots by me.  I think thats really close to where those screw holes should end up.  If the top were some really soft wood... you might have an issue.  But I dont think you will on a top of fairly dense wood.  Alder ... I should think it would be ok.

 

[-CB-]

Even more....

From the d'Addario site - the string pull numbers for .010-.046 set is 101 lbs.  For a .011-.052 set is 119 lbs.

If you're playing 11's, the worst case on each screw is about 29 lbs and thats being pulled in the direction of the nut, with somewhat less screw-pulling load due to the angle of the string and roller piece.

I'm not seeing a problem, but am open to hearing the horror stories.

 

[rightintheface]

hmmmm good observation there CB.

i was actually reading through my warmoth order, and apparently i they omitted the back chamber anyway, as i am using a TOM/stop setup. so there ya go, the chamber is irrelevant.

however i'm still interested in this V5 idea... i like that i would be able to change it back to the stop-piece (dunno why i would, just an option), as i would probably have to remove the stop-tail studs to fit a bigsby onto the face, yeah?

however, looking at the position of my stop-tail, it doesn't look like there would be enough room to FIT the F5  :icon_scratch: and i can't seem to find the measurements/specs on the site...? anyone know the exact specs of the vibramate? am i lookin in the wrong place?

 

[bbl4ck]

The Vibramate is 4 inches in length total.  It is 3 inches from the center of the stud to the tip of the Vibratmate.  It is 3.5 inches in width from the center of one stud to the center of the other stud. 
You can see on my V that the Bigsby was a bit long and hangs over a tad.  I was fine with that.  However, from looking at other pics of tele's with Bigsby's, it looks like it would fit.
I can take a xerox of the Vibramate and send it to you if you are really worried about the fit.  I still have a V5 because I had to buy an original to have the custom made for the V. 
Send me a PM with address if you want a copy...

 

[rightintheface]

thanks for the measurements dude! i just had a look and yes, it should fit with a bit of gap still  :icon_thumright:

BTW that V looks great!!!