Leaderboard

Talk Me Through Applying A Headstock Decal

JaySwear

Hero Member
Messages
3,006
i'm getting ready to change the strings on my tele deluxe whenever i get all the supplies together to put the decal on there. at first i was pretty content with just applying the decal over the finish, but the more i think about it the more i think i should just do things right the first time.

my plan is to remove tuners an tape off the headstock, sand down the finish (pretty thin nitro), apply the decal, then clear over it. i'm worried that

1. the headstock will be a significantly different color when i'm finished

2. i'll screw something up and wish i had never sanded the thing down

i feel like it's pretty full proof, but i want to ask to make sure i'm on the right path here. here's what i had in mind originally
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1274936147&sr=8-1

it's cleap, and i figure a few quick and light applications and i should be good to go. am i oversimplifying this or will i be just fine?

EDIT: and i'm most likely buying online, unless i find out that just about any lacquer would do. local store literally has ridiculously limited selection. so if you have a link (preferably amazon, but really anything is fine) i'm definitely ok with you posting that. any help appreciated!
 
The rustoleum lacquer sucks, it yellows and drys real slow.

I would order the DEFT brand clear lacquer, its way better in my opinion and drys crystal clear.
 
Deft or Cabot - Cabot is a better gloss - or Duplicolor at autostores is ok too

Here's what you wanna do - just lightly sand with 600 or 800 grit to a totally dull surface - go light, no sanding scratches.
Then apply the decal.  Then put two coats of shellac over it when dry.  The shellac will draw excess moisture from the decal itself, which can cloud the lacquer, and will "seal" the decal a little from the lacquer, helping to prevent destroying the decal.  When thats all dry, you can shoot lacquer - first two coats...very light, and let dry thoroughly.  Build maybe two more good coats.  Now the fun.... sand the decal areas back with 600 grit paper until its dull.  You've removed lacquer from over the deal - dont sand thru, just dull the finish, and only right over the decal.  This should be easy since it will be raised.  Now shoot again, one or two more coats.  Sand back again.  And shoot another coat to gloss it back up. 

At that point, you should have a decal that is flat, or quite nearly flat, with the rest of the finish - a real pro job.
 
how long should the couple coats of lacquer take to cure on the headstock? i'm about to apply some (next decent day we get, of course it's rained 3 or 4 days in a row now) and i'm wondering how long it'll need to sit before i sand down close to the logo, then how long THAT should sit after i apply the final layers. any help?
 
I've been going a minimum of 24 hours between full coats.  CB recommended 2 full coats and then sand down the decal area.  Then two more coats and sand it again.  Finally one more coat before finish sanding and polishing.  I just finished spraying the last coat after two rounds of sanding.  Starting to look really good.  Should be fully finished this weekend. 
 
i'm at the step of sanding down over the decal, but i'm worried my layers are too thin. looking very closely from the side i can still see the decal very clearly raised up from the rest of the wood around it. seems like maybe my coats are too thin. is that possible? or is this more just me psyching myself out since i'm so worried about sanding through the decal?

either way it's looking pretty good, even if i don't go the extra step to make it flush (which i'm debating on since i really am worried about scratching the decal up)
 
started with shellac and applied probably 3 very thin coats. this is really only the second time i've tried to finish anything myself, and the first turned out about as bad as you could imagine. i was really impatient and applied thick coats and still regret it (or i'd have another guitar in my collection now instead of sitting in the garage).

anyway, point is i did REALLY thin coats on this one, so i've done about 4 extremely quick lacquer coats now. just today. it said apply 3 coats about 30 minutes apart, so i did. then went back a couple hours later and applied one more coat after being worried i might sand right through the decal. i'm worried that with even 800 grit sandpaper and a very light touch i might still scuff or tear the decal under all those thin layers.
 
I'd recommend more coats, and more patience. :)  I've spent almost two weeks finishing my headstocks now.  Since you put three thinner coats on, I'd wait 24 hours for them to dry.  Then put on a ticker coat tomorrow.  Not crazy thick, but spraying 6-8 inches away for 30ish seconds.  Wait 24 more hours.  Then sand with 600 grit wet paper.  Repeat again.  Then one final coat of lacquer before finishing.
 
JaySwear said:
i'm at the step of sanding down over the decal, but i'm worried my layers are too thin. looking very closely from the side i can still see the decal very clearly raised up from the rest of the wood around it. seems like maybe my coats are too thin. is that possible? or is this more just me psyching myself out since i'm so worried about sanding through the decal?

The finish builds up on the decal and wood the same thickness as you apply it.

Lets say the thickness of each coat is .005 inches.  Two coats is .010 inches - on the decal and the wood.  Now say you sand off .005 from the decal's finish.  You're still .005 too high, so you'll need to add more finish to all of it, then sand back again.  Being afraid to sand it back is natural - and cautious.  You'll gain some experience as you do more.  For now, just add another good layer, and when its all dry, sand it back.

This last one I did needed two sand back sessions with two layers of finish before each sanding.
 
Back
Top